BLM Still High, what now?

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pressure

Mine has 15-16" @ idle....I'd get a vacuum pump like a mity vac and check all the hoses, also check headers for cracks as stated before...FWIW, I chased high BLM's on my car for a long time, finally found it was injectors, put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, turn the key on to prime...it should hold pressure for a while, if it starts falling immediately, you have a problem

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I put my key to on, and watched the gauge. It pressurized and held longer then I wanted to watch it. So injectors sound fine.
 
You can add fuel with the translator to get the blm's down. What are your translator settings now?

You could really use a modern chip.
 
I found that part of capping off the vacuum block interesting how exactly is that done to check for leaks? Do I cap off all the ports and start the car ? Will it start with vacuum lines off it? I've been chasing this high Blm as well since I installed scanmaster

Yes cap off everything but the line to the fpr. 1 by 1 hook them back up while the car is running. Watch the blm. When the number jumps way up, you found your leak.
 
Stock

You can add fuel with the translator to get the blm's down. What are your translator settings now?

You could really use a modern chip.

Car is completely stock right now. I have the Translator, an LS1 MAF, XP Pump, hotwire, Adjustable FPR, Power Plate, as well as a TT 5.7 with 42.5# Injectors on my kitchen table right now. I just want to get back to square one before I start moding the car.

I am going to try looking for a hole in the MAF pipe tonight, as well as blocking off the hoses 1 by 1.

If I install the TT chip, is it still easy to find my problem? I see that it is open loop idle, and my BLM is not locked.


Thank you all for the help. I hope to find my issue soon!
 
I would switch it all out then work on the tune.

Old maf + old chip = pain in the ass. ;)
 
NorEaster,the way I check for vacuum leaks is with a "might vac" and a couple of hose pinch off pliers.Pinch off one section of vacuum line with the pinch off pliers and put it under vacuum using the mighty vac,if it holds vacuum for a couple of minutes your good, then go to another section of vacuum hose.Check all check valves, t-fittings by themselves,even the hard vacuum lines and take your time.I even found vacuum leaks in brand new vacuum hose by doing it this way.I also took my fuel pressure regulaor off and taped up the hole that goes into the fuel rail,I attached the mighty vac to the vacuum port and put it under pressure(instead of vacuum) and summurged it under water and found a few leaks.Now my BLM's are steady at 128
 
NorEaster,the way I check for vacuum leaks is with a "might vac" and a couple of hose pinch off pliers.Pinch off one section of vacuum line with the pinch off pliers and put it under vacuum using the mighty vac,if it holds vacuum for a couple of minutes your good, then go to another section of vacuum hose.Check all check valves, t-fittings by themselves,even the hard vacuum lines and take your time.I even found vacuum leaks in brand new vacuum hose by doing it this way.I also took my fuel pressure regulaor off and taped up the hole that goes into the fuel rail,I attached the mighty vac to the vacuum port and put it under pressure(instead of vacuum) and summurged it under water and found a few leaks.Now my BLM's are steady at 128

Excellent, I will also give this a try.
 
A vacuum leak that causes such high BLM's whould be pretty obvious. At leat it has been when I helped others out with stock GN's. It was always a hose or 2 completely disconnected.

You should definitely look into the MAF too. Anyone local to you that would let you borrow theirs to try?

BTW, my GN had the sme issue when I first got it and absolutely no vacuum leaks. The problem turned out to be clogged injectors. i repoaced them and the problem was solved.
 
Mity Vac and injectors

A vacuum leak that causes such high BLM's whould be pretty obvious. At leat it has been when I helped others out with stock GN's. It was always a hose or 2 completely disconnected.

You should definitely look into the MAF too. Anyone local to you that would let you borrow theirs to try?

BTW, my GN had the sme issue when I first got it and absolutely no vacuum leaks. The problem turned out to be clogged injectors. i repoaced them and the problem was solved.

I just bought a Mity Vac from amazon, should be here soon. The injectors do have 125K on them and a few tic. I think tomorrow I am going to rip into the top and put the injectors and Adjustable FPR on.
 
Maf

A vacuum leak that causes such high BLM's whould be pretty obvious. At leat it has been when I helped others out with stock GN's. It was always a hose or 2 completely disconnected.

You should definitely look into the MAF too. Anyone local to you that would let you borrow theirs to try?

BTW, my GN had the sme issue when I first got it and absolutely no vacuum leaks. The problem turned out to be clogged injectors. i repoaced them and the problem was solved.

I dont know of anybody local with a TR. I do have a buddy at NAPA, Ill see if he can 'Loan' me one.
 
Keep updates on how and when u try out ur Mityvac I'm thinking of buying one myself just not sure which model I need just to check vacuum leaks sounds like it will definitely find all them leaks I'm bait confused as to how it's used though u pinch a vacuum hose at any spot then hook up the Mityvac where?
 
Update

So this Friday, I installed my Power Plate, 160 thermostat, 42.5# injectors and the 91 oct TT Street chip and Adjustable FPR. I still have to install my fuel pump and hotwire, that is due next weekend. All I can say is WOW. This car is fun to drive again.

Here is scanmaster readings after the first run around the loop:

AF: 04
L8: 30
Bat: 13.8
INT: 130
BLM: 127
CLT: 167 (fan on)
ATS: 91
r: 800
TPS: .42
IAC: 29
cc: Slow (this is a new sensor also, looks like Im going back to NAPA)
MAL: 00

Vacuum 20in

So it looks like my problems are solved. I did see a little bit of knock retard at 2.3 with a O2 reading of 816 on recal, but I bet it could be my lack of fuel and that the gas is from last year (I dont want to fill it up and have more to drain for next weekend). So for now, no WOT till fuel system upgrade.

Also, My RJC plumbing should be here tomorrow, and then I will chuck the factory MAF and put in the LS1 MAF.

Thank you Eric from TT!
 
Looks like the Plenum was probably your vacuum leak or the lines weren't seated well. Regardless, glad to see it's better. The new Maf will hopefully cure that low AF reading and you'll see a spool up increase since it flows a ton more than the stocker.

You didn't say how much total boost with pump 91 so the retard doesn't have a ground for us to base it off of.

Also, what's with the 42lbs injectors, new or used?
Surprised they're even around anymore with how the 60's and 80's idle. :confused:
 
Boost

Looks like the Plenum was probably your vacuum leak or the lines weren't seated well. Regardless, glad to see it's better. The new Maf will hopefully cure that low AF reading and you'll see a spool up increase since it flows a ton more than the stocker.

You didn't say how much total boost with pump 91 so the retard doesn't have a ground for us to base it off of.

Also, what's with the 42lbs injectors, new or used?
Surprised they're even around anymore with how the 60's and 80's idle. :confused:

I cant wait to get that stock MAF and piping out of there, I be it is like sucking thru a straw compared to the LS1.

Chip was set for 16# and 17 Deg in first and 15# and 16# in third I believe. I have a Autometer Manual vac/boost gauge, but I was too busy looking at the road and scanmaster while driving it.

Injectors are new. I talked my goals over with Eric, and he suggested these. I dont see any idle issues. So far (about 15 miles) I am super happy.
 
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