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Blowthrough build repeat.

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March 2020 update:
Just got my last few pieces to install and finish.
I got the stock headers on and my fabricated down pipe is fitting although close to the crossover flange. I'm setting up my new airfilter system and installing a pre turbo inline oil filter.
This is a Turbosmart -4AN filter and ZEX -4AN lines with two Earls adapters to -4AN.
I'm about to get this all sorted out and hit the road.
 

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The new large AFE air filter that I'm installing
 

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Temporary filter/line routing until I finalize it with the air inlet tube and filter.
Stock headers being ran for the first time ever on this machine.
 

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Pics to follow. I could not get the big air filter under the car like I used to run it at the moment but I do intend to get it there. It is under the hood as far over and away from the engine and low and close to fender as possible, it's a bit straighter shot to the turbo.
The stock headers are working out perfectly with the down pipe I made for the old headers where I thought I may have a clearance issue. It has a good heat cycle now and retorqued the hot parts. No gaskets on anything and no exhaust leaks.
 
^ Bison built that turbo and I believe it is powder coated, need to ask Bison to be 100%.
 
I've retorqued the hot parts after the first heat cycle/trip out on this machine. Everything stayed tight, I do not see, hear or feel any exhaust leaks. If I could have found a good set of stock headers for a deal when I first built this I would have ran them back then instead of the Asian ATR knock offs, I never knew what I was missing.
I have rock steady boost control, the quickest spooling yet "out spooled my TE62 on a Garrett .63 housing" and a louder engine with these changes.
I'm ready for the local tracks if we can get to racing again after the virus closures.
 
WarWagon said:
I've retorqued the hot parts after the first heat cycle/trip out on this machine. Everything stayed tight, I do not see, hear or feel any exhaust leaks. If I could have found a good set of stock headers for a deal when I first built this I would have ran them back then instead of the Asian ATR knock offs, I never knew what I was missing.
I have rock steady boost control, the quickest spooling yet "out spooled my TE62 on a Garrett .63 housing" and a louder engine with these changes.
I'm ready for the local tracks if we can get to racing again after the virus closures.
Click to expand...
Looking forward to test mule updates, virus be-damned.
 
Last Saturday I was headed back to the track in this machine to put it in the tens but I was stopped on the up trip. A little over 65 miles the engine just ran like crap and the vacuum gauge was bouncing, pulled it over and parked it eventually towed it home. Just got into it now after the fourth and the #5 exhaust rocker arm is completely broken In half and intake rocker on same hole is cracked. A few others are cracked on the odd bank but none on the even bank. It's time for roller replacements, I'm working on getting them now.
 
Upgrade parts have arrived! And I'm almost ready to install these new rocker arms after the head rocker shaft stands get clearanced.
I went with the 1.65 ratio arms because I have the mid lift .320 comp 206/206 roller cam.
I'm waiting on some TA power 6 tall valve covers but I'm adding a spacer to run the stock valve covers for the time being. I've read up and got familiar with setting up the preload on my Comp 885 lifters with these TA roller rockers. Interested in seeing the results of the added lift these rockers will give my small 206 mid lift roller camshaft.
 
.320 X 1.65 should give you .528 lift. Nice rockers. I run my 885 rollers at 0 lash. They are noisy with or without preload. They get quieter as the engine warms up due to the aluminum heads.
 
If your heads have already been ported, you might get bit with the 1.65 ratio rockers.

On my first gen GN1 heads, the pushrod was rubbing hard enough on the edge of the pushrod hole (in the head) that the rod was flexing when I was trying to get to zero lash ( I have 885's as well)..

The only way to fix that was to enlarge the pushrod holes and doing that broke into the heavily ported intake runners. Fixing that involved brass sleeves and JB weld and it SUCKED.

Just figured I'd share that adventure before you totally commit to 1.65 ratio rockers.
 
I have 1.65 T&D rockers on my spare engine with iron heads and 3/8" pushrods with no clearance problems. My GN1 heads with 1.65 rockers are tighter on pushrod clearance, so I have to run 5/16" pushrods.
 
Thanks on the info guys. The head cutting went well, rockers fit great. Tonight I'll set the valves up after a bit more cleaning of the head.
 
I wanted more info to post here, only have a little today. Still waiting on TA valve covers but I did get the spacers on and running stock valve covers for now. 8.225 push rods and 1/4 turn on adjuster and valvetrain is very quiet like it was with stock rocker arms. Engine runs great and really takes off after just 10psi. The idea is the head back to the track Aug 15th and make passes and have fun with it.
 
Still trying but the issues are out of my control. Bad weather has stopped my last two outings to the track.
Aug 29th is the next date to go racing/testing.
One good update for this thread: tall TA performance valve covers are supposed to arrive today.
 
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