Body Bushing Suggestions.

[HighMileage]

My '87 GN has the original bushings. I looked at a few. They are cracked/loose,etc. All of the rattles and flopping fenders tell me it's time for replacement.

I'm planning on replacing mine myself,on a carpeted concrete floor in an unheated garage. Not pleasant in a Northeast winter,I know. But I'd rather chip away at it,knowing it will be done right. I have plenty of scissors jacks and stands.

Question 1: How about the idea of loosening one side...then removing the other side? That way the body won't be completey off and risk mis-alignment.

Question 2: Which vendor would you recommend? I've seen Kirbans mentioned as well as G-body.

I want the softest ride possible because of the bad roads up here,but I want durability. So Poly is probably my choice?

I do want every bushing plus the GNX bushing.

Btw,I have already gone under the car and attempted loosening a few of the bolts with a 1/2in ratchet. Each gave way easily. No rust.

Someone mentioned that they were going to write a how-to on this,but I couldn't find it. I did search this topic.

Thanks for your input.

Steve. '87 GN,T-tops. <--with more rattles than my '79 RV !

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Replacement Rubber Body Bushings

Hi Steve,

Just went thru alot of searching for some "rubber" body bushings as I did not want to go the "polyurethane" route for my street driver. Too harsh a ride (or so I am told).

The OEM GM Body Bushing were discontinued several years ago and are now difficult (if not impossible) to find.

I did find some rubber replacement body bushings at Cars Inc (located in NJ) 205 Pearl St. Neshanic Station, NJ. 08853.
PH# (908) 369-3666. :biggrin:

You can reach them at: Antique Old Buick Parts CARS, Inc.

Although I was told that these aren't OEM NOS body bushings.....that it doesn't mean that these were not made in the same machine / mold as was used by GM. Seems that GM did not make these in house, but purchased these from an outside vendor. Hmmmmm! :wink:

When I rec'd my order....I have verified that most of these rubber body "cushions" or "bushings" have the GM part number stamped into them!

This tells me that I made the right choice.

Have not installed mine yet, but (just like you), I plan on doing this over the winter as well.

BMK827 @ $249.50 (includes all the body bushings including #5 GNX, with the exception of the core support kit.

CSK644 @ $35.75 (Core Support Kit).

I did notice a few of these bushings were different part numbers than what was indicated specifially for the Regal. Monte's and Olds Cutlass are similar (but probably only difference is the colour of the bushing (durometer).

I ended up finding these few correct body cushions scattered around the US at several GM dealers old inventory .

Good Luck on the change over, keep us posted on your progress. There are lots of threads on doing this...just use the search button.


dave

 

[TurboDave]

Slightly loosening one side while doing the other side is a good idea. Not very loose though.

Oh, and one safety measure to do!!!! Make sure and remove the two screws that hold the power steering reservoir to it's mounting bracket!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just let it be held up by it's hoses. I learned this the hard way. I raised the driver's side about 3+ inches to make plenty of room for the #2 bushing and my hand.

Well.......The hoses from the PS res. are attached to the frame/motor. Raising the body yanked the entire bottom out of my reservoir. The reservoir rises with the body. the other end of the hose doesn't rise with the body as you can imagine.

 

[hemi8]

From my experience I would recommend not using poly body mounts. There is no reason to use them for a street car.
Be careful to notice any gaps between the body and the new bushings Before tightening the bolts. Mine was strange, when I installed all the new bushings including the missing ones and the GNX ones, as I started tightening the back ones the driver's side rear quater panel caved in. I now believe some of the bushings were left out at the factory for a reason, I think GM did what they did on the assembly line so each specific body rested nice and level on the frame they were being attached to. Factory tolerences being what they are some lined up better than others.
In my case I found that the GNX bushings had raised the back of the body up off the frame an extra 1/2" so when I tightened the back body mount bolts it bent the rear quarter panel down in the back. Luckily it popped right out but it did weaken the sheet metal in that area and left a mark. This is the same area that caves-in on high horsepower cars if the cage is not tied-in to the frame a specific way. I would search for GM Rubber mounts, foget the GNX mounts and just replace what is there and do not install the missing bushings, they are missing for a reason. Each body fits a little different, try not to upset the factory settings. Just my 2 cents.
Mike

 

[GNBRETT]

if u want a soft ride then poly is not the way to go. i had em on a buick a few years ago and hated then.

 

[HighMileage]

From my experience I would recommend not using poly body mounts. There is no reason to use them for a street car.
Be careful to notice any gaps between the body and the new bushings Before tightening the bolts. Mine was strange, when I installed all the new bushings including the missing ones and the GNX ones, as I started tightening the back ones the driver's side rear quater panel caved in.

Great... Now I don't know what I'm gonna do here.

It sounds like the rubber ones are non-existant. My car rattles more than a can of rocks. ...front fenders floppin,etc. No rust.

Was just about to place an order with Summit,too.

Is it possible the GNX bushing wasn't seated?


Steve. '87 GN,t-tops.

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

FWIW- I read all the threads about bushings. Good and Bad. Then I proceeded to order a set of poly mounts and received them. They are on my to do list for this winter. I won't be able to share my opinion until spring/summer though when the car comes out of hibernation. Worst case scenario I upgrade the entire suspension next winter and if I am not happy I'll have to find a set of rubber ones and do them again and find a use for some poly bushings like mounting the air compressor in the garage or something. I've always had good luck with poly mounts on other projects I've done.

 

[TurboDave]

Personally I prefer the poly bushings. I have one GN with them and one without.

You have to decide what you want the car to do.

Want a soft cushy "buick" ride that may not feel particularly stable

OR

Do you want a more precise feeling ride?

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Where to get rubber body bushings

Great... Now I don't know what I'm gonna do here.

It sounds like the rubber ones are non-existant. My car rattles more than a can of rocks. ...front fenders floppin,etc. No rust.

Was just about to place an order with Summit,too.

Is it possible the GNX bushing wasn't seated?


Steve. '87 GN,t-tops.

Steve,

Re-read my 2nd post in this thread. I've indicated where you can get the rubber body mounts! These have the GM part numbers molded into them, which I believe indicates that these were made by the same company that used to supply GM as OEM supplier. Only difference is visually, there is no chalky colours on them (which only indicates different durometer of rubber used on these which was different between Olds Cutlass / Monte / Regal).

As an alternative, you can contact your friendly GM dealer (give him the GM Part Numbers....and he can do a search thru out all the GM dealers for OLD stock to see what he can dig up. they can be give you a print out showing the dealers that have any stock of these body bushings . However, be warned that you will pay much much more picking up these bushings in ones or two's where ever you can + shipping on each one.

I'd suggest going with option "A" using Cars Inc. as in the 2nd post of this thread.

 

[Dennis Kirban]

I have been working on this issue for the last month since we used to carry all the GM bushings/cushions. We even sold the 4 and 6 bushing kit since GM more correct Buick only used a flat metal washer originally in position 3,4, and 7.


I am told they did that to have a soft ride quality.

Now add 20 plus years to the mix and you can see what a beating your body bushings the few Buick did use can take. I also know for a "fact" from a reliable source that when these cars were new none of them are exactly straight on the frame. They are not off much which is why Buick never corrected the issue.

SOme of you have discovered this when you step up going to bigger tires and rims notice one tire may be closer to the outer frame rail than the other. Another way to tell is if you ever installed the unique #5 GNX bushing it locks in to a hole and flat pad at the other end. If the car is not on the frame straight it makes it difficult to install the GNX bushing.

If you do the entire set 22 or 24 it best done by a professional body shop...you have to remove your rear bumper otherwise raising the body up will crush your real fillers. Caution also is required since you are stretching your fuel lines from your tank. Plus assuming your goal is to get it on the frame straight you need a method to measure everything. I assume a frame rack?

On the plus side we will have entire kits available in the factory hard rubber like GM used to sell. We also carry the correct grade 8 bolts.

We will also have the 4 and 6 bushing kit if your game plan is to replace the "missing" ones as they are known. GM calls them cushions most car owners refer to them as bushings.

We expect to have stock week of December 13th. The expensive kit is the $249.95 22 piece kit...which is all of them including the GNX one minus the core support.

Doing them is a step in the rite direction. Depending on the enviroment you may experience some issues with rust causing some of the bolts to turn freely....each one that does that represents alot of labor to cut open your floor and reweld a new cage nut and reweld the floor pan again whether it be in the trunk or rear seat area.

The so-called missing ones are all lower bushings which are real easy to install...I know personally since every turbo regal we sold (over 300) I installed them before I sold the car.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

On a personal note I would go with the reproduction hard rubber ones like GM used originally. Anything else considered best to drive a car that has it before you go to all the labor involved.

The hard rubber style like GM originally will cost more in parts though.

 

[just plain john]

I would add that when you jack up the drivers side to disconnect the e brake cable. I put a floorjack on the rear drivers sidefloor pan and actually bent it in trying to lift it off the frame because the cable length would not allow enough seperation between the body and frame. At the very least check it as you raise the body.

 

[usetaboost]

I have poly bushings in my car. The car is stiffer but I don't think its harsh. My bushings were trashed and my frame holes were rotted out so anything is an improvement. Ive had a lot of fbody cars though and they aren't known for the ride, especially the 3rd gens.

 

[HighMileage]

It's going to be body bushing/cushion time soon. I'm just trying to milk every last day until this car gets torn down for winter projects. Got it out tonite... I loves this 24'F air!

Question: Will the steering column be an issue when raising the body far enough to slide the cushions in?

I now know about the p/s reservoir,the fuel lines,the e-brake and having to remove the bumpers.

I just don't want to tear anything up when lifting the body.

Thanks!

 

[TurboDave]

It's going to be body bushing/cushion time soon. I'm just trying to milk every last day until this car gets torn down for winter projects. Got it out tonite... I loves this 24'F air!

Question: Will the steering column be an issue when raising the body far enough to slide the cushions in?

I now know about the p/s reservoir,the fuel lines,the e-brake and having to remove the bumpers.

I just don't want to tear anything up when lifting the body.

Thanks!

No, the steering column wont be an issue, it has that slip joint and universal in the engine bay.

 

[ikle]

HighMilage,
I replaced my body mounts with poly mounts,got them from Cottons Performance, didn't want a squishy "Buick" ride I wanted a more precise handling type of ride, you do get a little more vibration in the cabin but not by much.When I did mine I 1) removed the front and rear bumpers,I didn't want to scratch the bumper fillers,you do have to raised the body up pretty high to do the mounts.I also 2) unbolted the power steering resivor, then 3) I loosened one side and then unbolted the other side.I then bought a 2x8x8 cut it in half and assembled the 2 boards to make a "T" with some sturdy screws,I used a 2x8 because you need to raise the body a good 6-7 inches. The body of the car sit real close to the frame.Then I 4) centered the "T" board I made on the pinch weld of the rocker and took a jack and raised the body up enough to remove the body mounts.5)Replaced the mounts and lowered the body then bolted them up but didn't tighten them until I did the other side.The only problem I had was getting the rear mounts in because the the of the fame rails moved a little,but the rails believe it or not moves pretty easily buy hand.5)After all the mounts where in I tightened all the bolts pretty tight by hand,then reinstalled the bumpers and the power steering resivor.It's a pretty easy job, you only need help R&I the bumpers,should take about 2 hours taking your time.Good luck ,ikle.

 

[Dennis Kirban]

This week we wil have the complete bushing/cushion kit available also the 4 and 6 bushing/cushion kit for those that need them. We HIGHLY recommend if your car doe snot have them to install them. These are the bottom ones and can easily be installed on a garge floor as you do not have to raise the body off the frame. Our 4 and 6 kit will include new grade 8 bolts as well.

The longer you put off installing these "missing" ones you risk the actual body bolt falling out and having the body shift even more from the frame.

All the above advice and info on what needs to be done regarding raising the body from the fame is good advice.

I like to add just one thing>

Your end goal using whatever measuring method works is to get the body back in the frame STRAIGHT. Our 22 piece bushing/cushion kit includes the GNX bushings which is position #5 which sits in a pad in front of the rear axle. The tip of the top of the GNX bushing locks into a
hole on your body. The "key" of course is to have it perfectly lined up so that this bushing does indeed lock into your body.

The bushing/cushion set we sell will be like the originals (harden style rubber) unfortunately these do cost more than the various poly versions.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

 

[grocerygetter]

I did energy suspension...no gnx location. I think the car rides just as fine and it is straight as an arrow at the track.

 

[Dennis Kirban]

I did not imply the gnx bushing was needed only that when it is installed and because of its design it kinda tells you that your body is pretty square on the frame in the rear area.... By taking proper measurements when you replace the body bushings/mounts you can get your body on the frame square. The GNX bushing as I noted is one method to help line things up.

I remember several years ago almost buying a GN that looked great. I drove it when I turned the wheels one way the car was fine turned the wheels the other way and the tire rubbed the inner plastic fender. After I put the car on my car trailer I eyeballed the front wheels one side to the other. The distance was different to the front fender from one side to the other. Yt, driving down the street the GN drove fine, even the owner who owned it for several years never noticed anything unusual.

This is an extreme example and undoubtedly was related to the car probably being hit at some point.

Its great your car tracks nice....

With Buick leaving 3 lower bushings/cushions out completely on BOTH sides and then have a engine that developes alot of low end torque you can see how frame to body issues can rise. Plus moisture causes rust and rust eventually can rot out the frame around the bushing/cushion and even cause the bushing/cushion to drop down. Its like the bucket seat frames. Seen alot of them that get busted in these cars.


denniskirban@yahoo.com

 

[GNasty]

I wouldn't use Antique Old Buick Parts CARS, Inc. if they were giving parts away for free. Cars Inc (located in NJ) 205 Pearl St. Neshanic Station, NJ. 08853.

Years ago I bought an EGR valve from them. After putting it on, my BLMs went thru the roof. I discovered the valve was leaking a lot of air at the stem.
I sent the part back, and they refused to credit my credit card. After calling them several times, they claimed they '...never rec'd it.'

Finally I had UPS provide the delivery receipt, signed by one of the CARS employees. If they can't handle a simple $50 part order, can I trust them with larger $$ orders?

I learned the lesson all the veterans on this board know: Stick with the trusted vendors like Dennis Kirban and others that support us.

 

[HighMileage]

Here is another thing that has to be removed: The bracket that goes under the front of the driveshaft. If you have a safety loop in it's place,remove it. Once you start jacking the body up,it will contact the driveshaft.

Also,it's a good idea to take 5 min and unhook the tranny linkage from the frame.

I personally can't see the whole job taking 3 hrs. Removing the bumpers,p/s tank,etc. Then jacking up each side carefully. The bushing in #1 position on drivers side has it's nut under the air intake duct,so that's gotta come out...

Maybe I just work slow?

The whole job took me 10hrs. ..and my bumpers are still off. Plus,it sure looks like it's done right,and I didn't destroy anything.

Might as well keep it up in the air. Lots of other stuff to do.