Boost stuck at 12 pounds?

[JKGeorge1116]

There doesn't seem to be any blown fuses. I had a bunch of new ones laying around so i replaced all them anyway. Still no go. The battery was actually moved to the trunk by the previous owner but i did try tightening all the connected wires etc. still no luck

 

[meanchicken]

You mentioned the previous owner added lots of switches, etc.

If he did not ground carefully or place relays properly, you might have blown a relay or burnt a switch.
Hard to say.

Do you know if your injectors are firing?

You said it has fuel pressure...how much?

You said it has spark...but have you checked if it's hot enough?

 

[JKGeorge1116]

It turns out it was the fuel pump. I recently ordered a fuel pump from Cotton's Performance along with a hotwire hit.

Quad Air, "RED'S" stock style replacement pump by Walbro, this unit is good for 255 LPH, "600hp"

With Alky injection, a Scanmaster,160 stat, what would the boost i would be able to run safely?

Also i was thinking of getting a RJC power plate, getting a duttweiler neck for my intercooler, and cat back exhaust, would those be the best way to get started? with those mods, what can i run at the 1/4? and with my current setup, of 20 pounds of boost will i be able to break 12s?

 

[Just a Six??]

IF?? You have to tighten the rod that much (or what I understand altho a Clear Pic would help) then you need a HD actuator to bump it up BUT I dont understand how it was at 25 to start? Please take a pic of the wastegate rod again so I/we better understand? A typical rod is going to max at the lower 20's BUT if TOO Tight its no good either as the puck will not open enuf! HTH?

 

[meanchicken]

It turns out it was the fuel pump. I recently ordered a fuel pump from Cotton's Performance along with a hotwire hit.

Quad Air, "RED'S" stock style replacement pump by Walbro, this unit is good for 255 LPH, "600hp"

With Alky injection, a Scanmaster,160 stat, what would the boost i would be able to run safely?

Also i was thinking of getting a RJC power plate, getting a duttweiler neck for my intercooler, and cat back exhaust, would those be the best way to get started? with those mods, what can i run at the 1/4? and with my current setup, of 20 pounds of boost will i be able to break 12s?

IMHO, those are good mods (look at my sig) and you should be able to safely break well into the 12's at 20 lbs.

The question of how much boost is safe is always a lively topic, but a wise old Turbo Buick mechanic once told me that for long term reliablility on a stock short block and head gaskets, keep it at 20# or less.
I'm listening to him since I like driving my GN daily.

 

[Just a Six??]

Personally, I would buy my pump from Jack at Racetronix or Mike at Full Throttle since THEY are the ones who took the trouble to sort out the Walbro problem for us!

 

[JKGeorge1116]

Fuel Pump

Ahh i already had ordered the fuel pump from Cotton's Performance. Now is that the equivalent of a Walboro 340 or 307? I also ordered a hotwire wiring kit, but the plugs don't seem to match up? i will post pictures of exactly what i mean but any ideas? Also what is the benefit of the hotwire kit exactly? It seems everyone has one with their fuel pump so i figured it was pretty important.

 

[meanchicken]

The hotwire puts direct alternator output on the fuel pump and eliminates all the voltage drops that occurr in the factory harness on the way to the fuel pump.

Basically it ensures the pump has adequate voltage to pump full volume at WOT and is one safe guard that keeps things from leaning out due to fuel starvation up high.

It's a good fiddy dolla insurance policy....
;-)

 

[JKGeorge1116]

Lol another day, another issue. So I replaced the fuel pump, have yet to install the hotwire harness. Installed a dakota digital dash. Now my car can't hold its power. It will hold at 12 ish amps once its on but once the lights are turned on they drop till the car dies. Its same with any other accesory. Windows, AC Compressor. Is it because of the dash that its suddenly not adequate power? Before it use to get about 13 amps give or take a few uh mila amps? I had the alternator tested today and its fine. Should I just get a more powerful alternator? Or is it an issue with something else?

 

[JKGeorge1116]

Lol another day, another issue. So I replaced the fuel pump, have yet to install the hotwire harness. Installed a dakota digital dash. Now my car can't hold its power. It will hold at 12 ish amps once its on but once the lights are turned on they drop till the car dies. Its same with any other accesory. Windows, AC Compressor. Is it because of the dash that its suddenly not adequate power? Before it use to get about 13 amps give or take a few uh mila amps? I had the alternator tested today and its fine. Should I just get a more powerful alternator? Or is it an issue with something else?

 

[TurboDave]

Since you installed that aftermarket dash, did you leave the stock "volt" light installed in it's stock original socket? Current flows through that bulb to excite the alternator and allow it to charge. Gotta have that bulb in place.

BTW it's volts you're measuring, not amps.

 

[JKGeorge1116]

Where is the volt light usually located?

 

[JKGeorge1116]

Im still looking for the volt light but I noticed that the stock clip to the alternator was cut. Do our cars come with external voltage regulators? Cause the stock clip has two wires to it. One of which had a smaller wire that had a metal connecter to it at the end. As it is right now the previous owner jus has a clip to the alternator with one wire. Was that where the voltage regulator would be if there was one?

 

[meanchicken]

In the standard GN dash, the Volt light is the second idiot light from the top on the left side of the panel.

Our alternators are internally regulated.

You should have a single plug with a brown wire (idiot light) and then the terminal for the hot wire to the battery.
Can you take a pic of the wires you're talking about and post it?

 

[JKGeorge1116]

the dash was actually a riviera dash and half the things didn't work anyway. I found the problem, faulty wiring. One wire that was cut and connected was loose and that turned out to be the culprit. thanks everyone for all the help with everything. Hehe I have a new issue though. Blew the head gasket at 18 pounds of boost. Im hoping there isn't any damage on the bottom end. It was rebuilt 60k ago so hopefully its ok. Has any1 used the rjc "bulletproof" head gasket kit? Also where can I get some heavy duty valve springs as well as valves? Is there anything else I can do while I have the heads off? Also is there anywhere I can get a full wiring harness or something? There's several places all over the car where wires have been cut and pieced together so one line will be 4 different colors. Thanks again for everyones help