Boost valve snap ring install question

[W30post]

I recently installed a boost valve and reverse boost valve in my 200 4R 2 weeks ago. The car went no where. I pulled the pan and all the parts for the valve were in the pan.

I noticed the knife edge on the boost valve snap ring and made sure it was down this time (maybe not correct last time) but something else came to mind while installing this time.

The snap ring is just barely in the bore for the boost valve. I can still push the boost valve up about 1/2 inch and see something that looks like another snap ring landing. Should the boost valve have 1/2 inch of play when the ring is installed or should I place the snap ring where the boost valve has almost no play? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quick answers are really appreciated.

 

[mikestertwo]

You don't have the snap ring in the right place. The snap ring groove is about a 1/4" down in the bore. Properly placed, the boost valve should only move about 1/8". What your seeing near the end of the bore is not a snap ring groove but a small step in the bore.

 

[83hurstguy]

ooo, yeah. That would cause some problems like you had mentioned earlier...

mikestertwo is right above... get that snap ring up there. Its a fun challenge.

 

[bison]

Use a screwdriver to push the valves up against the spring pressure and have your pliers ready in your hand. Its an easily fixed problem.

 

[W30post]

Mikestertwo and Luke, I slid the boost valve higher and got the snap ring in the groove. I think the play is probably less than 1/8 inch but the ring is truly seated in the groove. I finished putting the pan back on and filled the fluid back to level. So far, it takes gear really well both forward and drive. I will get it out later today to see what else is doing better.

Mikestertwo thanks for the quick reply this morning. I probably would have ended up pulling the pan again with all the parts in the pan. I love the power of the internet, but it is people who reply with sound advise that keep the hobby alive.

Bison, I was typing while you were also but thanks for replying...

 

[83hurstguy]

awesome, let us know how it drives when you get the chance...

 

[S10xGN]

Glad you got it! I never could get my snap ring in, even hired a tranny mechanic to come to my house and he couldn't get it in! After pulling the trans out and flipping it over, it was a 2 minute job.

 

[goat racer]

The last time I had to change the boost valves in the car, I had just come back from an eye doctor appointment. We were going to the track the next morning and I had to get the pan back on the trans from my last minute decision to change things around.
The problem was that the doc had dialated my eyes eek: ) and I could'nt focus on the bore and snap ring groove!
I had to do it by feel, and believe me it took awhile. My arms were sore and I had ATF all over my face. I did get it in though.

OK, thats my only snap ring difficulty story.

 

[W30post]

I did get a chance to drive it this weekend. There are a lot of things seem to be better but I have to get more seat time.

I reset the TV cable before the drive and I think I need one more click tighter to be happy. Car drives very well like it is but I know it can drive better.

One tip for the snap ring, I used needle nose pliers instead to install. I was able to hold the ring under my finger that was holding the boost valve assembly in the bore. Then I used the pliers to clamp the ring and just pushed up. The other tip I will pass along, I used silver sharpie on the snap ring so I could see which side needed to be facing down when complete. This for me was just a visual aide to make sure I put it in right since it did have a certain edge that needed to be facing down.

Maybe you guys are smarter than I am and already knew this stuff.

Thanks again,

 

[W30post]

Glad you got it! I never could get my snap ring in, even hired a tranny mechanic to come to my house and he couldn't get it in! After pulling the trans out and flipping it over, it was a 2 minute job.

By no means am I an expert but maybe you weren't getting the PR all the way into the bore before the spring and valves. I used my pinky and made sure it went into the bore all the way before I started to install the springs and valves. Glad you did get yours done but on mine I am trying to do all I can not to remove this trans.

 

[Firechicken]

There is a guy on ebay (not me) who sells a tool designed for the sole purpose of installing the snap ring for the boost valves. Looks great and I am tempted, but it is too expensive for getting used only a couple of times. Maybe if I was a regular builder it might be worth it.

eBay.ca: 200-R4/700-R4 PUMP BOOST VALVE SNAP RING INSTALLER (item 8040397908 end time 15-Feb-07 01:32:55 EST)

 

[Blazer406]

You don't have the snap ring in the right place. The snap ring groove is about a 1/4" down in the bore. Properly placed, the boost valve should only move about 1/8". What your seeing near the end of the bore is not a snap ring groove but a small step in the bore.

I found this out the hard way on a 700R4..... same exact $hit.

It wasn't until I pushed it further up the bore I realized that was only a step in the bore... not a ring groove.

 

[S10xGN]

There is a guy on ebay (not me) who sells a tool designed for the sole purpose of installing the snap ring for the boost valves. Looks great and I am tempted, but it is too expensive for getting used only a couple of times. Maybe if I was a regular builder it might be worth it.

eBay.ca: 200-R4/700-R4 PUMP BOOST VALVE SNAP RING INSTALLER (item 8040397908 end time 15-Feb-07 01:32:55 EST)

Awesome, bet I can build one similar enough to work!

 

[V6UnderPressure]

So is there a specific way the ring needs to be facing? I would think the taper would be facing down so it would go in easier???

 

[mikestertwo]

It probably wouldn't make any difference but the proper way is to have the tapered side towards the boost valve. The reason is you want the sharp edge facing away from the spring so it will hold in the groove better and won't get pushed out by the spring. It's a general rule when installing snap rings.

 

[challengermike]

It also helps when you grease the snot out of the pr valve so it stays up all the way in the pump.Then install the spring and then the boost valves.If you dont grease it you probably wont get the hold line up in far enough to beable to install the snap ring in the groove.