Boost Valve, such a magical piece

[TexasT]

So, I have been mulling over the boost valve and its doin's.
I have the "bible" of 2004r assembly. I know not all believe but it is what it is and pretty much the only printed thing out there past the atsg manual.

Any way, in there it states not to even consider using over a .500 boost and a .296 rev boost valve. All well and good until i read some more an it appears against the advice given the author has gotten into making a .555 boost valve and I see where tci among others have a .570 boost valve. I have also read of a .521 but have never seem one for sale. we all(I guess all, maybe most) know the .471 and the .423 arent getting it done so the .500 gets the nod in many builds including mine. I based my selection on the budget and under $10 cost of the .500. If i get a poor performance from the directs I will surely be looking to go to a bigger valve but one step to a .521 would seem logical but without a source , I am probably thinking .555.

Then I read that SteveV doesn't go to a larger rev boost valve. This makes me think, maybe I wasted the $30 or so I put into buying one, but it does get the rev, 1 and 2 pressures up when the selector is moved there. Im not even sure I put in the .296 as I didn't measure it. Could have been the .283 piece. Pressures are good so non issue.

Then I read through this old post(don't start a contest over dual feed please as I am avoiding the billet forward at this time) an get the fact that there are those out there getting good longevity out of the stock stuff with higher pressures.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/th...ified-direct-drum-with-extra-clutches.237080/

Am I wrong to think I can too? I guess I need to know if the .555 will get me there or if I need to jump to the .570 on the next one I assemble?

Thanks for your input.

 

[bison]

There's a lot more too it than the boost valves. Increasing pressure by itself isn't enough to prevent direct failure

 

[TexasT]

I'm willing to learn if you are willing to explain.

 

[David Husek]

It comes down to the build and how it is setup. A quick starting reference, for a stock converter, use .471 and a .296. For a 9 to 10 lock-up converter, use .500 and .296. For some non-lock converters use .500 and .370. In some instances I will use my .531 boost valve and my.370. It is not set in stone, it really depends on the PR Spring used, the cars combination and how it needs to drive. As far as using a stock drum, calibration is key to making it survive. Keep it simple, the information is available

 

[1952ray]

Wow, does David know what he's talking about, no ? He knows, better then anybody on this site

 

[Janis Transmission]

the looser the converter is the less shift feel,so you need more pump pressure otherwise you will blow threw converter.

 

[TexasT]

I will do some more study on the rev boost valve and how that affects things. I do know my pressures in 1,2 and rev are elevated. I'm pleased so far. Just have to beat on it and see how long it goes.
Thanks for all the input. Oh , here are the pressures we got when we got it in and running. It jumps as soon as the cable is pulled.


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