Brake bleeding question

[87geeinn]

For those who have a lot of experience bleeding the brakes on a TR, how many of you were successful in bleeding the brakes without ending up with air pockets in the calipers? I'm going to bench bleed my new master cylinder and thinking about just using Russell speed bleeders since I will be doing this by myself. I suppose if that doesn't work I will buy the Phoneix reverse bleeder that I've read about, but I am trying to save a few bucks...if that is even possible with a turbo Regal, lol.

However, I want to do this right the first time and avoid stubborn air pockets in the calipers, etc. I've read numerous threads on techniques of how to avoid and get rid of air pockets and such. So, again, anyone have complications from bleeding their brakes?

 

[im4darush]

The powermaster has specific bleeding procedures but the 4 corners are no different than any other car. I've not used the speed bleeders before but assume they are designed to not let any air back into the system. If they are effective in their design, then it should work. If not, then you will either need a budy to give you a hand or vac bleed. And give the calipers a few wacks with a hammer during the bleeding to bring out the stuck air bubbles. And of course make sure the powermaster does not go dry.

 

[davelostmissing]

I put wagner parts on, at the time they came with speedbleeders or equivalent. I thought they were great.

 

[87geeinn]

Okay, thanks for the input guys. FWIW, I'm going with an all manual set-up, so all I should have to do is bleed the master cylinder, install it, and then do all fours. From my reading, it looks like the speedbleeders are a wise choice when you are bleeding brakes solo, as long as you keep a decent coat of threadlocker on them. I will make sure I bang the calipers too as I've read that a few times already too.

im4darush: Yeah, the speedbleeders are bleeders with a one way check valve in them. Here's a diagram: Russell Performance - Domestic Speed Bleeders

On second thought, I might just use a piece of clear tubing with a check valve in between it similar to this (sixth accessory from the top). That check valve looks suspiciously like the ones that came on our cars and can also be found in the HELP! section of all the auto places. I have a few of them lying around anyway, in addition to the nice ones from USplastics.com, and see no reason why they can't be adapted for use in a low pressure fluid situation. It would cost next to nothing.

 

[Dabigguy]

I use this for bleeding brakes and you can test EGR valves and many other things......it generates vacuum as well as pressure, and it has a gauge on it too. $40 ain't too bad.
Mityvac Vacuum Pump - Save on Mityvac Pumps at Harbor Freight!

 

[87geeinn]

I use this for bleeding brakes and you can test EGR valves and many other things......it generates vacuum as well as pressure, and it has a gauge on it too. $40 ain't too bad.
Mityvac Vacuum Pump - Save on Mityvac Pumps at Harbor Freight!

Oh hell yeah! I searched Harbor Freight just the other day and I guess the only thing I noticed was their $25 cheapy version that only does vacuum. That's a good price for the Mightyvac and it looks like once you are done doing a vacuum bleed, you can apply pressure and do a reverse pressure bleed to force any remaining air out of the lines/calipers too, no? I need to make a Harbor Freight run anyway for some odds and ends. Thanks.