2a) after sucking the fluid out of the PM reservoir, key off and pump the brake pedal a good 20-25 times to purge fluid from the accumulator ball. This may not be necessary, but I did it just to remove as much fluid from the system as possible.
2b) Remove the seat. This is not a necessity, but I found it MUCH easier to get under the dash without it in there. It only took about 20 minutes to remove the 5 nuts holding it in. It may also help to keep the cloth clean in case you get dirty while working on it.
3b) when you remove the pin that keeps the brake pedal attached to the actuator rod, there are three parts that come off: the pin, a flat washer, and a spring-type washer. Keep track of these. Do not expect to be able to detach the pedal from the actuator rod at this point.
3e) Once you have the pivot bolt out, and all of its parts, you may still be unable to get the actuator rod off of the pedal. If that is the case, you will need to loosen the "saddle" that the pedal mounts to. There are FIVE bolts. It looks like there's only four, but there is one that goes UP into the dash. Once you have that loosened (I didn't have to completely remove mine), you should be golden and have the pedal out. Don't re-tighten the saddle until AFTER you have the new pedal attached completely to the new actuator rod on the vac. system.
4) I didn't disconnect my speedo - it wasn't in my way, so I didn't mess with it.
5a) I only found 3 nuts holding my booster adaptor on. This is why I had such a difficult time removing the adaptor. There are FOUR! If you were sitting in the driver seat, the lower left nut was concealed by a gold-colored tab that was attached to a wiring harness. The gold-colored tab had a retaining washer on it. That retaining washer was a B1TCH to get off on mine. No room to work. Once you have that washer off of there, the wiring harness pulled right off to reveal the fourth nut.
6) When test fitting the booster onto the firewall, I thought there was no way that big wiring harness could go either under or over the new booster. It goes under. Everything else (vac line for the cruise control, speedo cable, and windshield washer tubing) goes on top of it. I had to pull on the speedo cable a little to get it to fit over that big a$$ booster, but it made it.
11) Here is where I had a lot of fun. After fiddling around trying to get the actuator rod back on the pedal, I ended up loosening all of the bolts holding the pedal mounting saddle on. Once I did that, it slipped right on. First thing to go on is the spring washer, then the flat washer, then the retaining pin. Once all that is attached, re-tighten the saddle. Once you have the new pedal attached to the actuator, the rest is a piece of cake.
The Gbodyparts kit had a check valve already installed in the booster. It came with a piece of hose and a filter for the vacuum line also. I cut about a 3-inch piece of hose, attached it to the check valve, then to the filter, then to the vacuum block. When removing the vacuum lines from the old block, be prepared to go to the parts store to buy replacement vacuum hoses. When I got mine off, four of the five pieces of rubber hose attached to the block looked like they were 25 years old!
The Gbodyparts kit also had the master already mounted to the vac booster. I bench bled the master with it mounted in the car. Seemed to work fine. When bench bleeding the master, go slowly. The rear chamber of the MC has a quick-take-up feature in it that can cause brake fluid to squirt up & out of the master if you try to go too fast.
When re-attaching the brake lines, you shouldn't have to bend the rear line at all. Mine fit like a glove. The front line required a slight amount of bending, but it wasn't bad when I spread it out over the several coils of brake line there.
All I can say is take your time, especially when bleeding the brakes after the new install. There was a marked improvement in the color of my brake fluid at all four corners. It kinda felt good to have all that old dark brown fluid out of there. I bought a mighty-vac to assist with bleeding, but I ended up getting my better half to pump the pedal for me to bleed. The mighty-vac hose kept leaking air around the bleeder screws of the rear making it difficult to tell if the air was coming from inside the brake line, or a bad seal around the bleeder screw. If you run into a problem, post up no matter what time it is; chances are, somebody will be online to help. I couldn't get my rear brake line broken loose from the master & severely boogered the flare nut. It was unbelievably tight - I ended up using a pipe wrench to finally break it loose. That same flare nut is back on the new master and still in service!! Thanks to advice from several guys on the board.
Look around for pictures on here, too. Pictures help me a heck of a lot more than words. If you run into a brick wall, PM me and I'll call you or something. That job will stay fresh in my mind for a while.
Good luck with the conversion & sorry to be so long-winded.
