Brake Light on Dash

[trip]

Hello Everyone

Just finished replacing all of my brake lines. As I blew out a wheel cylinder 2 years ago and the car has sat since.

I followed a brake bleed procdure which I found on the site.

I used the c clamp to hold in the proportion valve that is under the drivers side floor.

I bleed everything multiple times until the fluid was clear, no air bubbles and no hissing. When I would put the brake pedal to the wall, the brake light would come on, once the bleeder was cracked, the pedal would go a bit closer to the firewall and the brake light would come on.

Completed the bleed procedure from passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.

All is clear, but now anytime I put the pedal down in the car the brake light on the left side of the cluster comes on.

Any suggestions?

Thanks all

 

[GO FAST]

Throw that power master away and get a hydra boost system , best money you'll ever spend.

 

[TexasT]

X2 on the ditch the powermaster. You will not regret it.
I like hydroboost but a vacuum.system is good too.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[3.8L V-8 eater]

X3 just did the conversion to hydroboost.....I was tired of constantly being concerned with the intermittent brake light coming on and off....

 

[TurboDave]

Hello Everyone

Just finished replacing all of my brake lines. As I blew out a wheel cylinder 2 years ago and the car has sat since.

I followed a brake bleed procdure which I found on the site.

I used the c clamp to hold in the proportion valve that is under the drivers side floor.

I bleed everything multiple times until the fluid was clear, no air bubbles and no hissing. When I would put the brake pedal to the wall, the brake light would come on, once the bleeder was cracked, the pedal would go a bit closer to the firewall and the brake light would come on.

Completed the bleed procedure from passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.

All is clear, but now anytime I put the pedal down in the car the brake light on the left side of the cluster comes on.

Any suggestions?

Thanks all

Sounds like you bled the brakes with the key on all the time! Very possible that this could have damaged the electric motor or accumulator. When you turn the key on, or press the brake pedal does the motor run? How long does it run? does it sound somewhat normal?

 

[trip]

The motor sounds fine, as soon as you press the pedal you would hear it run then turn off.

The pedal feels fine, just when you put the brake on now the light comes on the dash. Once you release the pedal the light goes off.

 

[davelostmissing]

IIRC that wire goes to the mastercyl , prop valve and parking brake. disconnect the prop lead to eliminate that?

 

[trip]

Kinda of a newb on the powermaster, Is the wiring that goes into the motor on the front portion. Or the wiring that is on the top closest to the firewall?

Thanks

 

[trip]

The wire has been disconnected, the brake pedal is very hard now. Seems more like a manual brake set up.

Anyone recommend a vendor to purchase a hydroboost setup from?

 

[GNONYX]

You mention you're new to the PowerMaster system, and maybe you can read this PowerMaster troubleshoot PDF and it might help you out.
It does mention that you will need a Kent Moore Turbocharger Pressure Test Gauge # J-35126.
I have this unit and it works great for troubleshooting, and check with EBay, but you will see some has it pricy.
Most will said to convert over to Vacuum or hydroboost, I think the cheapest conversion is to do the Vacuum system, but the hydroboost has more holding power then the Vacuum system.

 

[trip]

Thanks for the information,