Brake Line Lock & PAC

[6SENSE]

Recently installed line lock for doing burnouts. Previously if I did a burnout foot was on brake pedal cutting off PAC from pumping alky so all was good. Now I am spraying alky while doing burnout since Im not using pedal anymore. Im worried that I may be going up to the line rich and dont want any chance of making 60fts any worse than they have been, is this something to worry about or am I just trippin'?

Should I install a PAC cutoff switch, or relay the line lock switch in to the PAC/brake light-pedal switch ?

Thanks

 

[Razor]

Yaaa.. 20 PSI burnout is way cool

I dont think you should be going into a lot of boost while doing your burnout... I mean the tires should be wet.. and not really loading down the motor?? Your rpms also should be low.. big RPM's in burnout box you'll hurt something.

You'll be ok.

 

[6SENSE]

Thanks, Julio

Hey, by the way, do you usually set the initial setting on the PAC with the car running?- so that the voltage is where it would actually be when the system is activated (13-14v~). Or do you just do it with car off?
When I did it with the car off I would have a batt charger hooked up on med or high to simulate "running" voltage, and have recently just done it while driving. Never remembered you mention anything about having to do it any special way like this, so Im finally asking. Setting initial to 2v output to pump with car off would be actually a bit more with car running right?
Maybe Im just overthinking things again .

 

[Razor]

See your concern should be more the amount of spray you have at WOT. Whereby if the gain knob(blue) is setup to get rid of your KR at mid position, your there. If you find that the blue knob has to be opened up to get rid of KR, then give it more initial since the initial is what sets up the progressive ramp. Too much initial gives too much alky throughout the entire range, too little.. you get KR.

So dont worry too much about the down-low adjustment, but the up-high.. the down-low falls into place everytime once the up-high has been setup.

In laymans terms, if the boost rises smooth without hesitation/surging.. and you get enough alky to get rid of KR.. what more can you ask for

And changing your turnon point also affects ramp. Becuase the ramp starts from the turnon point. So setting a lower turnon point will give more alky up high. So if you get your ramp setup, then lower your turnon point, it will add more alky throughout the range. There is no need to start the controller earlier if you want more spray, just crank on the initial knob.. that will also accomplish the same. But keep in mind, turning it on late will not work as well getting rid of the transitional KR.

Its super flexible, typically the settings it leaves from me with should get you there pretty close. If you need instructions how to calibrate the box per "factory settings" contact me off list for procedure.