Brake milkshake

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xrunner123

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2002
Messages
807
I did the rear cylinders and re-bled using the mity vac. Now I have a milkshake in the large chamber of the reservoir and a small pool of brake fluid underneath the proportioning valve- :( which looks rusty.

With the key on the acc position, the brake pedal easily falls to the floor and the brake motor turns on with every pedal push (don't know if this is normal).
Anyone have any clues? Proportioning value sucking air? Do I have to bleed the whole system? Replace prop valve?

Thanks
 
as long as you didn't mix the types of brake fluid (i.e. dot 3 w/ dot 5,) you should be fine. just go buy some fluid & bleed the entire system. but make sure all the fittings are tight. i can't figure out why a fitting at the prop valve would have come loose during your repair, but you obviously have a leak somewhere. just look for the highest place that is wet with fluid (it can only go down.) you'll definitely need to bleed the whole system now, though. the milkshake look is from cavitated fluid (foamy.)
 
Can I just bleed from the wheels? Did anyone ever write a 'formal' procedure for totally bleeding the whole system?

Thanks
 
Not too many people visit here I see.

I want to gravity bleed by myself. From what I hear is that I crack open all bleeders and keep on topping off until no air. Is it that simple? I see other talk about bleeding master cylinder. When does one have to do that and do I need to?
Thanks
 
that doesn't always get all the air out. it's a good start if you're filling up a completely dry system, but it's just a start.

just have someone help you. it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. fill up the reservoir & put the lid on. push down on the pedal (don't pump it! this is what causes the fluid to cavitate!) & crack open one bleeder at a time. once the fluid flow stops, close the bleeder. repeat until no more air comes out of that bleeder & the fluid is clean. bleed in this order: RR, LR, RF, LF. the rear ones will take the most pedal applications. keep an eye on your fluid level. if you bleed it dry, you'll have to start all over again. (this happens to the best of us! ;) )
 
Has anyone every thought of pressurizing the topoff container with a few psi of air and force bleed them instead of gravity bleed?
 
you can do that. but you have to be careful not to force air into the master cylinder bore. also, you can't use too much pressure or it will leak out of the reservoir seals.
 
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