Brake Motor Does Not Run (help!!)

BUICKGNX

New Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2004
Please help me:eek: My 87 gn has a problem with the brake system. The motor does not turn on (cycle), and the brake pedal is very hard with the brake light on at all times. I checked the pressure switch connectors (A,B,C) & the Pump connectors (A,B,C,D). "A" from the pressure switch is to be with "D" from the pump. I tested them with a test light but there is no light on. "B" on the pressure switch connector seems to be a little weak. The light does come on. The remaining terminals on the plugs seem to be ok.

Please help!!!:eek: :mad: What do i do now??:rolleyes:

Mike
 
BRAKE PROBLEMS!! HELP!!!!!

PLEASE RESPOND:( ANYONE. THE FUSES ARE OK, JUST THE PS CONNECTOR TERMINAL A DOES NOT LIGHT UP, B IS A LITTLE WEAK, AND C IS OK. THE PUMP CONNECTOR ON THE OTHER HAND ALL WORK EXCEPT FOR D.

PLEASE HELP ME GUYS.
MIKE

BUICK CAR CRAZY NUT
 
DID YOUR CAR HAVE THE EXACT SAME SYMPTONS WHERE THE PUMP MOTOR DID NOT WORK. IF I CHANGE THE ACCUMULATOR, WILL IT SOLVE THE PROBLEM?? COULD IT BE THE SWITCH?? I TRIED DISCONNECTING THE SWITCH CONNECTOR FROM THE SWITCH. WHEN PLUGGED IN THE BRAKE LIGHT IS ON. WHEN DISCONNECTED THE BRAKE LIGHT IS OFF

PLEASE HELP:rolleyes: :eek:

THANKS
 
If the hydro-electric motor is not operating and the fuses and pressure switch are confirmed to be good, you might want to look at the motor itself as the possible problem. The motor should cycle on and off as needed to maintain the range of pressure necessary to operate the system.
 
OK,
Just checked last night the pressure switch with a multimeter. i set the meter at 2000 hms as stated in the instructions manual. with the battery disconnected, i proned the black wire and red to pressure switch to all terminals. it read 0.002. i guess its ok and functional. I also checked the power master motor/pump and with the battery disconnected it read nothing. Please if any one can help me. Trying to figure out what the cause of my brake problem is.

Thanks guys

Mike:rolleyes: :eek: :(
 
You should be reading in ohms for the motor test. I'd try to adjust the measurement so you aren't reading the thousands place (0.002).
Since the motor is not running I would pay particular attention to confirming this at the motor electrical connector:

Booster Motor (Ohmmeter)
1. Meter should show resistance between Motor "B" and "D".
2. Meter should show open circuit between Motor "A" and "C".
3. Replace motor and assembly if 1 & 2 are not true.

If the motor is shot, you would need a replacement unit, $143.00 plus $61.00 core charge at Autozone.
 
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