C clip eliminators..advise on install

[Louie L.]

Guys,
Looking for advise on what if any problems anyone encountered with installing these. Im about to do axles and center section. All Moser parts. The c clips and bearings are already installed on the axles.
I know what to do to get this on. Looking for tricks and tips!
I have done some searching but forund nothing here and little on the GNTTYPE archives.

 

[The Radius Kid]

I read where one member used the stock GM axle seals in the left over stub tube[where the bearing normally sits].
I think that's an excellent idea.
When I strip my setup out for a reseal,I'm going to do just that[pass side leaking].
Rich Rezes also reccomends "The Right Stuff" gasket compound for the gaskets.
Should work pretty good from what I hear.
I would change the supplied bolts for studs and nuts as well[to retain axles].

 

[Louie L.]

Kid,
The stock seal will fit in the grove/stub? Ill have to look into that. I have a caulking tube of "The right stuff" and im not afraid to use it!

 

[Black Car]

When I installed my axles, the instructions said to cut the tube where the original seals were. The new bearings housing fitted into the axle tube.
Make sure that there isn't more than 1/8" (or whatever the instructions calls out) of the tube sticking out from the flange.
If there is too much it will cause a leak.
The other thing that my instructions DIDN'T point out (and I didn't think about it either) is that the new bearings don't need luberication from the rear end fluid. They (mine) were sealed bearings.
Therefore, after you clean the backing plate and tube stub area, don't be afraid of using the sealer (Right Stuff or silicon).
After the third leaking time, Moser Tech support said to put some sealer inside the bearing housing too. This worked and mine haven't leaked in over 4 years.
Make sure you give the sealer time to cure before you add the axle fluid.

Just my experiences & 2 cents worth.

Gary

 

[Louie L.]

Gary,
We have the same eliminators. Were they kinda hard to spin by hand? I cant see how to put sealer in the bearing housing. The only place for me to put sealer on is going to be the just that grove on the back where the 1/4 in stub hits....


BTW ..... how about the bolts. Are there already 4 bolt holes in ther backing plate to bolt this through? I was told it only had 2 and i had to mark and drill the rest?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

My experience w/ Mr Moser

I bought a set w/ the eliminators already on them. Did the cutting and drilling. Installed, using his "special" sealer.. alum colored silicone. Drove the car for about an hr... lube all over the wheel, brakes ruined, yadda, yadda.
Call Moser.. IMMEDIATELY: your fault, you installed them wrong!
NOT! Your monkeys did it and the seal is bent, I can see it's not on the axle surface. Long story short: they refused to send me a seal and O'ring.. said I had to ship it back to them. A verbal shootout ensued. A seal showed up 14 days later.. no O'ring.[It was sliced in 1/2 as the edge of the adapter had no radius on it.] I was told, "the O'ring does not do any of the sealing. I asked then why is it there?? No answer. Oh ya, "we don't reimburse for "collateral damage".. I ate the brake shoes.
Since their design is a bastard 1 piece deal, you have to make special tools to r&r the brg. The STRANGE does not. It's a 2 piece deal and can be repaired in the field.
I ended up remachining the adapter, putting the new,[bastard size] seal in w/ a driver, so it didn't look like a pretzel, using a local O'ring and putting the axle back in. So far, no more leaks..Also, NO MORE Moser stuff here! We use the Strange parts.

My story, and I'm stickin to it!!

 

[The Radius Kid]

It sounds like the Moser kit has a spigot that fits in the stub bore where the OEM bearing used to fit?
How far in does the spigot go into the housing?

 

[Louie L.]

Originally posted by The Radius Kid
It sounds like the Moser kit has a spigot that fits in the stub bore where the OEM bearing used to fit?
How far in does the spigot go into the housing?

Ill send ya a pic ...see if we are on the same page..

 

[GNVAIR]

Its because of stories and experiences like this that I will be using Mark Williams flange kits PN#68700 http://www.markwilliams.com/pdfcat/pg8.pdf
This will also allow me to use the 11" rear drum brakes that the 73-77 A body wagons came with.
The kit allows the use of a Ford 9" style pressed on bearing in an early small pattern GM axle flange.
Both Moser and Strange c clip eliminators will leak. That is almost a given.

 

[The Radius Kid]

Originally posted by Louie L.
Ill send ya a pic ...see if we are on the same page..

Got it.Thanks.

 

[Steve Wood]

Louie, I have a set of new Moser C clip eliminator axles that I was fixing to install. Local guy here that builds race car suspensions saw them and threw the same fit as Chuck....told me that he would weld the ford ends on and use Mark Williams....after looking at the cost, I just ordered a set of new 30 spline axles and said the heck with it all. Maybe if I had not just finished laying on my back and one handing the new Eaton carrier in about 15 times as I shimmed it, I would have been more enthusiastic....I did not feel like pulling the entire housing at the time.

 

[Buicksx2]

Hi Louie,

FWIW Jim Testa and I did mine on a sunday afternoon in my garage, overall it went well and we did use the Right Stuff and knock wood till this day I have been lucky and they have not leaked.

My only complaint was that we banged the backing plates as flat as we could and reinstalled and it just seems ever since I have not been able to hold the amount of boost at the line that I was able too pre C-Clip install. I used to be able to hold like 12-13 and not it seems at 8 psi car is walking thru the lights.

Always readjusting brakes, tried switching back to the steel drums from alum ones and still have same problem.

Taking any and all suggestions on how to cure that problem while in this thread.....lol.

Best of luck.

 

[azgn]

Ford ends are the only way to go! Many cars here with them (including mine), no leaks, no problems......

 

[Louie L.]

Rich,
Check you email!

 

[The Radius Kid]

Originally posted by Buicksx2
Hi Louie,

FWIW Jim Testa and I did mine on a sunday afternoon in my garage, overall it went well and we did use the Right Stuff and knock wood till this day I have been lucky and they have not leaked.

My only complaint was that we banged the backing plates as flat as we could and reinstalled and it just seems ever since I have not been able to hold the amount of boost at the line that I was able too pre C-Clip install. I used to be able to hold like 12-13 and not it seems at 8 psi car is walking thru the lights.

Always readjusting brakes, tried switching back to the steel drums from alum ones and still have same problem.

Taking any and all suggestions on how to cure that problem while in this thread.....lol.

Best of luck.

It might be impossible without removing everything and welding reinforcements to the plates.
The way I see it,the problem lies with the fact that there's a gasket between the backing plate and the mounting flange on the diff.
You will tend to lose rigidity of the backing plate because of this.

 

[Black Car]

Originally posted by Louie L.
Gary,
We have the same eliminators. Were they kinda hard to spin by hand? I cant see how to put sealer in the bearing housing. The only place for me to put sealer on is going to be the just that grove on the back where the 1/4 in stub hits....


BTW ..... how about the bolts. Are there already 4 bolt holes in ther backing plate to bolt this through? I was told it only had 2 and i had to mark and drill the rest?

Yes, I had to drill the two additional holes for the studs on the bearing housing.
Yes, the bearings were kinda hard to spin.
Moser Tech said to put the sealer inside the housing so that could squeeze inside the axle tubing some. Said not to worry about the bearings because they were sealed and didn't need luberication.
If your axle stub is too long(more than 1/4") it will (mine did) hit the bearing seal inside the housing and do BAD things.
My axle stubs are between 1/8" & 3/16" long.

Gary

 

[Louie L.]

Well guys....just got finished. This Job sucked bad. C clip eliminators suck. After all that work can help but to feel like this is a cobled up way of doing it.But oh well they are in there and i dont plan to re do it.

Used a boat load of "right stuff" so it shouldnt leak. In hind sight... The Ford ends are the better deal , just have to get them installed professionally......but i guess u should have c clip elims done by a pro to cause they are a pain....

 

[The Radius Kid]

Good to see you got them done.
I take it you had a good time?

 

[Louie L.]

youd laugh if i told you how long i have invested in them....

 

[The Radius Kid]

Probably not.One day?