Cam sensor question? Help!

[jasjamz]

After getting my engine in I had to remove the cam sensor to prime before starting. It was set by my engine builder who does these all the time. I put it back in as close as I could to where it was,if not right where it was. So when it came time to start it wouldn't and figured maybe the cam sensor was off a little. After a turn little this way and a little that way,and working the throttle it started. Not a great idle but nice enough to break in cam I figured. After running at about 2000 rpm for 8 minutes the drivers side manifold which is jet hot coated started to glow where it meets the crossover pipe! I didn't run it hot. I shut it down and don't know what to do now. Car wil start right up if you turn the key but is slightly surging at idle causing the nickel in front if throttle stop to keep it running. Should I move the cam sensor some or what? I know this cant be normal. I don't want to mess up the cam or engine for that matter. The only thing changed from the last time was went to a smaller cam(had a 218) the te-45,and no fmic until I get it repaired. Here is the combo if it helps:

fresh stock bottom end
New cam flat tappet not a big one but don't know exact specs.
fresh ported irons big valves
ported intake w\egr welded
rjc pp
kb doghouse
bored stock tb
72lb msds
stock ic(I know I know!)
te-45a turbo
3" thdp
mid 90's DFI (gen 6?????)
no O2 no maf And digital dash car so it has a caspers harness for dfi hook up.
9" 3500 converter
Th-400 trans

 

[buickpower]

lots of times manifolds glow because the timing is severly retarded, causing fuel to burn in the manifolds. Your cam sensor may be way out of whack, enough to possibly inject fuel way late or ignite it way late. I would try resetting the sensor as per gnttype.org instructions. It is also possible that you took out the cam sensor, primed it, and put the sensor back in without re aligning the crank or making sure it is on the right stroke, as that is important. Bring cyl number 1 to TDC on the compression stroke, then rotate it to 25 degrees ATDC. You can mark this on the balancer with a piece of tape that is 1.45" long. Then put in the sensor with the window facing the drivers side (you have to remove the 2 screws and take off the cap to see what i mean), Put the cap back on and turn counterclockwise until the voltage drops, then tighten sensor. More detail is given on gnttype.

 

[jasjamz]

Thanks I didn't know that when i took it out that i needed to start from scratch with it. I will take your advice and do it the right way! Out of curiosity I took out the number one plug and it looked brand new. No tan tint nor was it fouled out.

 

[buickpower]

strange, a bone white insulator usually means way too lean, but it might be that the plug is firing way out of sequence or something of that nature.

 

[jasjamz]

Well I think the cam sensor is the problem. I started the car again and got the rpm up, and it did it again. This time since I was curious to see if i could fix it by making small adjustments to the cam sensor,fuel pressure,and checking other connections it went towards cylinders 1 and 3 but not 5. The passenger manifold looks fine and the car does run funny like a slight miss. At that rpm it is only noticeable to a ear of a TR owner.(Not to down anyone but you know your car!) So Saturday morning I'm pullin the sensor out and going from there. My TR guy is too busy to get to it this weekend and I will try to save myself some money!! I really appreciate your help. This car has been being slowly put together for 14 months and I'm eager to hit the street.