Cam Sensor question

[ravege]

Probably a stupid question, but if one is just taking the sensor out for rebuild, and the motor is never turned or cranked, shouldn't one be able to make note of where the window is facing before removing it, and when reinstalling it, make sure the window is facing the same way? So many threads involving multi meters, or Casper's cap, and marking the balancer - it doesn't seem like this should be rocket science?

 

[captndave737]

Yes. If it’s exactly the same way.

 

[DR BOOST]

This is assuming that someone else previously did the hard work for you. You can mark the wheel to the body of the sensor and pray that the marks don't get removed.

 

[PaCemkr86]

Yes, done it several times.. should be no problem

 

[ravege]

Thanks guys!

 

[turbo nasty]

Always check the position with a new or rebuilt cam sensor when replacing. Due to the old one having wear on roll pin, bushings, etc causing the positioning/timing to be different between a worn one and the new one.

 

[ravege]

Not sure I follow what you're saying (and in context, this is using your pro rebuild kit). If the window is lined up the same between two cam sensors, whether one is a rebuild of the original or 2 uniquely different sensors, the timing can be different?

 

[TTipe]

You will most likely have a very slight difference in window to tooth position with respect to cam cog.It should not create the need for a one tooth adjustment.This is really no value added unless you have an adjustable cam sensor.

 

[turbo nasty]

Lets use the roll pin on gear for example. If old is worn and then you have a new one in that isnt worn the cup will be in a slightly different position than when pulled with the new roll pin. Gear will mesh the same if the oil pump and cam wasnt moved. The roll pin however is going to be relation to the shaft/reluctor cup to gear. Ive seen over 1/8 wear on some wear the pins are half sheared, etc. SO if you were on the edge of the setting before with new cam sensor you could be off. Best to double check

 

[turbo nasty]

Wow that voice voice to text and didnt come out well. In a nutshell. Roll pin worn on old cam sensor and that old sensor was on the edge of proper setting. New/rebuilt cam sensor much tighter than old one it could be out of proper adjustment so verify.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Worst case you might have to move it a little. You will know when you try to start the engine.

 

[ravege]

Let me ask this then, what kind of adjustment is there? Never taken one of these apart before, but from what I've seen there is a keyway that the reluctor is keyed to. Can that keyway be rotated?

 

[captndave737]

The keyway on the reluctor is fixed. The adjustment is made by loosening the bolt at the base of the cam sensor and then rotating the whole thing. The same way you would adjust the timing if a distributor were there.

The timing is easy to check. There's no need for special caps or tools although they're nice. I've always done it the way the factory manual describes. #1 cylinder 25 deg ATDC and use a volt meter.

 

[bison]

The factory used reference points to set the cam sensor. As long as it’s close it’s good enough. If you have an aftermarket module like a TR6 it may require it to be installed more precisely. It won’t have any effect on timing unless it’s way off. But then it wouldn’t run


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