Cam sensor setting

[VadersV6]

go top dead center 0 degree on the timing mark then put tape 1.45 counterclockwise "TO THE LEFT" lol then turn the balancer clockwise to the 25* mark which is at the end of the tape but dont go over then turn back to 25* because if there is slack in the chain it will put you 1 to 3* off. if you do go over then go back then go forward so the chain is tight. I think this is why some people have to advance there cam sensor because it still has a tip in stumble they probably left slack in the chain> but you never know with these complex beasts

You basically repeated what I said.
The whole "To the left, LOL" thing, I dont understand. Yes, the tape goes to the left side of zero, so that you can rotate the engine TO THE RIGHT (clockwise) and get to the number. But anyway, what i was saying, is that you dont have to do all this. GM designed this in a way that it could be dropped it and set easily, with no special tools. Setting the cam sensor does nothing to adjust timing, like with a distributor. The computer does all that. It just takes the cam sensor signal, takes the crank sensor signal, overlaps the signals and tells the computer that cylinder #1 just fired, and synchs everything up to prepare the next firing. People seem to think that the cam sensor needs to be adjusted with the accuracy of a distributor. The cam sensor signal and crank sensor signal need to be wayyyyy off to cause a problem.
Take the cap off. Rotate the motor clockwise until the window is beginning to point toward the drivers side front of the car. Just use a socket on the alternator pulley nut. i cant believe some articles suggest that you grab the IC fan by hand and rotate the motor. Why would anyone recommend this? It hurts and makes about as much sense as trying to push start a car with an automatic.
Start looking at the timing pointer.
Rotate the motor till you get to TDC. You will be on the compression stroke. (assuming no one ****ed things up in the past).
Loosen the cam sensor hold down bolt.
Rotate the body till the cap locating notch is lined up with the interrupter ring locating notch..(which is 180 degrees around from the big window.)
Tighten the retaining bolt and you're good to go.
This will put the sensor right in the middle of the big window. Now if you had gone to 25 degrees past TDC and done it the standard, PITA way, the sensor would be at the very leading edge of the window. If you do it that standard PITA way, and then bring the motor back to TDC, you will find that the sensor is right in the middle of the window, just like it would have been, had you done it the easy way.
Work smarter, not harder.

 

[GNX026]

timing issue

What is the best whay to set the cam sensor, it came loose and blew my flowmasters open like a coke can I have a timing box "timing doctor" but no tape, for the balancer...

can it be set without the tape??

yes, measure 1'' from existing mark on balancer to the left of the mark.
this is 25 degrees past TDC using A DVOM set to volts turn sensor CCW
until you see app. 5 volts and your done.

 

[vl1500]

Hi Brian,this is Terrance,I talked to you a while back about the"ATR"down pipe puck issue.Ihave a problem and I need to ask you a few questions.Would you please give me a call @423-304-7299.Thanks....

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Hi Brian,this is Terrance,I talked to you a while back about the"ATR"down pipe puck issue.Ihave a problem and I need to ask you a few questions.Would you please give me a call @423-304-7299.Thanks....

I called and left message

BW

 

[novaderrik]

last summer, i tried to set the cam sensor the "correct" way, because i never bothered to do it when i took the front of the motor apart a few years ago to put a new front seal in it. i did the whole "get to 25 degrees ATDC on the firing stroke and watch the volt meter and blah blah blah" song and dance.
once i got it set "properly", the car wouldn't start- it would just backfire thru the intake every once in a while. so i used a piston stop i made out of an old spark plug to verify the line on the balancer, and it was right on.
so i just spun the sensor back to about where it was when i started, and it fired right up but had a slight off idle sputer. so i gave it a quick turn, and it got better. i kept goin until it stopped getting better and started getting worse, and backed it back where it ran good- there was about a 5 degree "window" of adjustment where it ran good, so i put it rightin the middle and tightnend the bolt down and shut the hood.

 

[GNVenom]

You guys are making it all too difficult to do. And trying to muttle thru the voltmeter routine can drive you crazy. I turned setting the sensor into child's play for us GN freaks:

http://www.installationinstructions.com/107112.pdf

Cannot miss with this setup.

 

[Rodney87GN]

You guys are making it all too difficult to do. And trying to muttle thru the voltmeter routine can drive you crazy. I turned setting the sensor into child's play for us GN freaks:

http://www.installationinstructions.com/107112.pdf

Cannot miss with this setup.

That thing is the sh!t! I used one to fire up my new motor the other day. It started the first try with no fuss.:biggrin: Keep in mind this is the first time I've ever messed with a Buick cam sensor....didn't even have a clue on how to adjust one. Just follow the directions to a 'T' and you're set.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

These tools work. I bought the Caspers Cam Tool for $30 from Postons. Worked great and alot cheaper than the cap style for $79. I am not a mechanic and I was able to do it. Good luck. Brad

 

[GNVenom]

The difference is the tool requires that you mark the harmonic balancer at 25 deg. after TDC with a permanent line, where the cap doesn'r require a marking. The cap is set by using the factory zero notch, and the slots in the cap put your fuel timing at the exact 25 degree ATDC point.

The cap also provides an easy "tweak" of the actual injector timing whithout having to loosen the mounting bolt, which seems to have a positive effect from those who use aftermarket cams. When the cam sensor setting is off the mark, the you usually notice an off-idle stumble or sometimes a backfire. By slightly tweaking the set point, you can overcome this condition. Moving the 25 degree target above or below the mark is the whole concept of the slots in the cap mounting.