Cam sensor to buy or borrow

[michael evans]

Who might have a cam sensor I can either buy or at least borrow to trouble shoot why my engine will not run ?

With help from many others, I have narrowed the issue I am having to one of two things.

All the stores around me that even will carry it (all have to order it in) want over $300.00 for it. To much for a maybe.

Anyway the led on the box blinks but that does not mean it is good does it ?

 

[michael evans]

Thanks guys that offered to help. I have a couple heading my way.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Did you check for power at the module plug?

 

[michael evans]

Yes 12 volts at "P" and "M" pin and 2.90 at the "J" pin and 12 volts at both sensor plugs.

LED lights up for the cam sensor light up box I have but that does not mean it's good.

There are a few things that have me puzzled though.

On the plug why am I reading 5 volts on the signal wire for the crank sensor while I have the plug in hand (not connected ?

Why will the engine run about 20 seconds with a new module then die and not restart ?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Yes 12 volts at "P" and "M" pin and 2.90 at the "J" pin and 12 volts at both sensor plugs.

On the plug why am I reading 5 volts on the signal wire for the crank sensor while I have the plug in hand (not connected ?

On the module plug or the crank sensor plug? Power comes from the module. If the module plug is disconnected there should not be power at the cam or crank sensor plug.

Why will the engine run about 20 seconds with a new module then die and not restart ?

That is strange. Possible bad wire or connection somewhere.
Inspect the module and sensor plug connectors. Make sure non are backed out of the plugs.
Look at the tension on the female connectors at the module and crank sensor plugs.
Pull on any suspected wires to check for broken or corroded conductor. If a wire was ever back probed it could be corroded inside. If this is the case the wire will have a bump in it and would likely break when you pull on it. Check the orange wire by the battery the same way.
Disconnect the ecm plug and look for corrosion. I see a lot of this even on hardtop cars.

A corroded wire would definitely cause intermittent issues.

 

[michael evans]

On the module plug or the crank sensor plug? Power comes from the module. If the module plug is disconnected there should not be power at the cam or crank sensor plug.

At the cam sensor plug with the module plugged in is where the strange reading are coming from.

That is strange. Possible bad wire or connection somewhere.
Inspect the module and sensor plug connectors. Make sure non are backed out of the plugs.
Look at the tension on the female connectors at the module and crank sensor plugs.
Pull on any suspected wires to check for broken or corroded conductor. If a wire was ever back probed it could be corroded inside. If this is the case the wire will have a bump in it and would likely break when you pull on it. Check the orange wire by the battery the same way.
Disconnect the ecm plug and look for corrosion. I see a lot of this even on hardtop cars.

A corroded wire would definitely cause intermittent issues.

So far I have taken the entire wiring harness apart even to the point to where I had the ECM sitting on the plenum and can not find any wiring issues.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Figure it out yet?

 

[michael evans]

Got some parts today and will work on it tomorrow. Should only take me 20 minuets

 

[michael evans]

Plugged in borrowed ECU and still no injector pulse/ no start so I will have to wait on Fed Ex to deliver the cam sensor that they lost/ mis-directed.

It showed up in Champagne, Illinois and is now in town somewhere.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Sounds like you have covered all the bases. Does the ce light come on with the key?

 

[michael evans]

Sounds like you have covered all the bases. Does the ce light come on with the key?

yes

Blinks fast with KOEO

 

[michael evans]

The only thing I can think of not is that my main chip is bad.

Would that put out a code ?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Sounds like the chip has a bad connection. CE light should blink once then stay on solid when the key is turned to on position.

Pull the chip and take a look at the pins on the prom. Make sure none are bent.

Also re tension the leads in the chip socket with a safety pin or a sewing needle.

Re install the chip and see what it does.

 

[michael evans]

Put another chip in I have for 83 pound injectors and the light stays on solid now but still no injector pulse.

Maybe now I need to start over on troubleshooting

PS I just want the engine to start so I can switch to XFI.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Do you have power at the injector harness?

 

[michael evans]

Do you have power at the injector harness?

Yes

 

[michael evans]

I have figured it to be one of the five wires from the CCCI (coil pack ) to the ECU. waiting on some tools to get here so I can probe the wires without cutting into them,

Talked to Brain Lorenz and he is seeing more of the issues I have.

 

[TurboBuRick]

You can ohm the wires at the plugs instead on probing through insulation.

Have you tried moving the cam sensor?

 

[michael evans]

You can ohm the wires at the plugs instead on probing through insulation.

Have you tried moving the cam sensor?

Yes moved it first then replaced it with a new one.

Need to find / make something to mimic a pin to fit in the plugs and will stay.

Ordered a couple tools that supposed to be here Tuesday.

 

[TurboBob]

where are you located? Sounds like you may have a few issues stacked up. I have seen a cam sensor timed on the edge cause hot restart issues. in those cases you would have fuel and spark when trying to restart but the engine will not run. In any case, we need to start with the basics. What is the history here? Did this issue just start? What was the last thing done to the car before all this started. What mods are done?

When it starts and runs, then stalls, does it cut off cleanly? or sputter? Do you have any datalogging equipment?

Bob