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Can 1/8 steel be easily bent in a vice?

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"Turbo-T"

V6 on steroids
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
7,393
Or do you need one of those special folding machines for bending?

I ask because I've decided to fab up a mount to hold both my PLX wideband (about the size of a pack of smokes) and my Scanmaster. Instead of both sitting atop the gauge cluster area, I'm going to fab up a little shelf for both to sit on. It will sit in front of where the center a/c vents are.

I picked up some 1/8 thick flat stock tonight at Lowes. I have access to vices at work, but this stuff looks almost like it would be really thick to bend in a vice with a hammer....and like I'd need one of those machines that is used to bend metal. (I can't remember what they're called but we had them way back in metals tech in high school)

Any pointers are much welcome and appreciated.
 
You should be able to bend it in a vice. The vice will leave marks on it but just grind and sand the marks down a little primer and paint and you should be good to go.
 
Using material that heavy, reminds me of the "howitzer to hunt rabbits" theory.
And, if it is any length to speak of, it won't bend "easily".
 
I always go with aluminum for bracketry, it is lighter, bends easier and won't rust...
 
Thanks...does anyone know what those big machines are called that fold metal? They have a big handle on them where you put the metal in then you can fold it by hand.
 
What you described is a sheetmetal brake. Would it bend some 1.8" strap? Sure, but with damage.

I bend simple brackets out of 1/8 all the time in a vice with a cheapie vice brake from Harbor Freight. For heavier stuff or stuff wider than 1" strap I use a brake I made to use in .
 
I dont beleive that hand brake will bend1/8 steel.Better off w/aluminum.Easy to bend in a vise with a good hammer.1/8 steel will need to be bent in a brake that uses big heavy dies.
 
Ok well let me ask this then....if I were to weld a piece of steel to a piece of aluminum would it work?
 
Ok well let me ask this then....if I were to weld a piece of steel to a piece of aluminum would it work?
Oops.Guess thats not going to work.Hand brake no.Power brake yes.Vice hard way.Other words you need to take at least 1/6in out where u plan on bending it.Then you put heat where you took 1/6 out vice grips on the end of metal put in vice bend.Now you can weld in the 1/6 you took out.Thats the hard way.You knew all this anyways:biggrin:Now Im going rabbit hunting w/my heat seeking missile:biggrin:
 
Oops.Guess thats not going to work.Hand brake no.Power brake yes.Vice hard way.Other words you need to take at least 1/6in out where u plan on bending it.Then you put heat where you took 1/6 out vice grips on the end of metal put in vice bend.Now you can weld in the 1/6 you took out.Thats the hard way.You knew all this anyways:biggrin:Now Im going rabbit hunting w/my heat seeking missile:biggrin:

While this was irrelevant I don't think you understood a thing I posted. That's ok happy hunting to you.

Thanks to those that posted useful info.
 
Go to the home store (Menard's if you have them) and buy a piece of galvanized steel sheetmetal. Something like 16-18 gauge. A small 2'x2' sheet will cost you $5. You can cut it with tin snips and bend it in a steel door neatly. Just make a cardboard template first so you can figure out the angles. Then lay the cardboard flat and cut it out of the sheetmetal.
 
no you shouldn't weld steel to aluminum....you'll get gavalinic corrosion...if you want some .050" aluminum pieces let me know....pay for the shipping and I'll give you some....that is about the max you want for a hand brake....1/8 steel is very tough stuff and hard to form...it is hardly sheet metal at that point
 
Go to the home store (Menard's if you have them) and buy a piece of galvanized steel sheetmetal. Something like 16-18 gauge. A small 2'x2' sheet will cost you $5. You can cut it with tin snips and bend it in a steel door neatly. Just make a cardboard template first so you can figure out the angles. Then lay the cardboard flat and cut it out of the sheetmetal.

16 gauge is really pushing the limit of tin snips...especially if you have to cut a fold...then you are certain to snap the snips...although I'm not really sure how thick bull-nose snips will cut through
 
no you shouldn't weld steel to aluminum....you'll get gavalinic corrosion...

Thanks wasn't sure if I'd get any corrosion due to dissimilar metals...I'm going to ditch the 1/8 steel bracket idea. I have some 1/16 to work with though....really want to make a gauge bracket.
 
I would just get some velcro, electrical tape, and a small piece of cardboard and deal with it.

Maybe a zip tie... or two. and some butt connectors and a coat hanger just in case.

So,... your going to mount the PLX box in plain view? Dont you think everyone will ask what kind of an amp it is?
 
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