Can I install hotwire kit prior to replacing fuel pump?

[Coelacanth]

I found and printed out a nicely detailed installation procedure for the Racetronix hotwire kit and since it's plug & play, I was wondering if I can install it before replacing my stock fuel pump with an upgraded Walbro pump? It looks like you only need to loosen one gas tank strap--but not pop the bolt--and the rest will plug right in/bolt right up.

Since you need to drop the gas tank to R & R the pump, a job I'd rather leave for a shop to do, hooking up the hotwire kit myself will save me labor costs. The install doesn't look too difficult. I assume installing the hotwire kit for a very short time to the stock fuel pump is a good thing anyway, and won't harm the stock pump while I drive it to a shop to upgrade it?

 

[turbo nasty]

Yes you can run and hook up the hotwire before installing new pump.

 

[Coelacanth]

Awesome, thanks turbo nasty!

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Remember that it is advisable to run a 10Ga ground wire along with the hot wire power lead from the gas tank strap where the relay is attached, up to the threaded boss on the back of the alternator.

Once the fuel is out of the tank, replacing the pump isn't much harder than running the hot wire power lead through the frame.
Since you've got the car jacked up to get under it to install the hot wire kit you may as well drop the tank and do the pump.

 

[GNRick]

With the tank out you can paint/clear it, and also replace the metal straps and rubber insulators with shiny new ones from Kirban.

 

[TurboTGuy]

If you're looking to save labor costs, you could pre-install the hot wire kit, wrap it up real good to keep dirt and weather out and when you're ready to do the pump just have the shop do the plug and play while the tank is down.

GNRick's idea is a good one too, while you're at it might as well go for the whole enchilada.

 

[Coelacanth]

I happened upon Earl's tank-drop & fuel pump R & R write-up on the other Turbo Buick forum and I think I'll tackle the whole job myself...it doesn't look too challenging, and backing up onto some ramps and lowering the tank onto a 5-gallon pail is a great idea. He mentions to toss the OEM pulsator in the trash...is that the weird orange cylinder thing hanging from a wire off the fuel pump? And what does it do?

 

[GNRick]

Just Google it and u will see a pic of it.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

I happened upon Earl's tank-drop & fuel pump R & R write-up on the other Turbo Buick forum and I think I'll tackle the whole job myself...it doesn't look too challenging, and backing up onto some ramps and lowering the tank onto a 5-gallon pail is a great idea. He mentions to toss the OEM pulsator in the trash...is that the weird orange cylinder thing hanging from a wire off the fuel pump? And what does it do?

You can do it! I have faith in you.

It sounds like the orange thing hanging from the wire might be the float for the fuel level sending unit.
The pulsator is a metal bulge connector that goes between the pump and the hanger tube. It is replaced with a chunk of fuel hose and some hose clamps.
I'm not sure if the pulsator is no longer used as it is not really nessesary or because they failed, blocking fuel flow.
I suspect the pulsator acts like an accumutator to smooth out the fuel pressure pulses caused by the vanes in the pump creating pressure as they pass by the outlet port - then there is a space - and another vane and so on.

 

[Coelacanth]

Thanks GX1. So, it sounds like you just pull out the pulsator and replace it with the piece of fuel line that's included in the hotwire kit.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Thanks GX1. So, it sounds like you just pull out the pulsator and replace it with the piece of fuel line that's included in the hotwire kit.

Usually the piece of fuel hose would be included with the new fuel pump parts bag.
It's just a 3in - 4in long piece of 5/16in fuel injection hose. I pick up some local that is rated for use with ethanol, that way I know for sure it won't degrade and fall apart inside and block fuel flow. Paranoid?, it's a buick turbo V6, you have to be. Lol

Note too that using hose clamps that are too large can create gaps where fuel can leak decreasing your HP capacity.

I happened upon Earl's tank-drop & fuel pump R & R write-up on the other Turbo Buick forum and I think I'll tackle the whole job myself...it doesn't look too challenging.

And with the knowledge you gain, you can help some other poor sucker that got tricked into thinking that owning a turbo buick would be
bitchin'.
Just messing, we all love our turbo buicks other wise we wouldn't be here.
Hey, would you look at that, I've learned how to multiple quote.
Let us know how it goes.
George

 

[Coelacanth]

Remember that it is advisable to run a 10Ga ground wire along with the hot wire power lead from the gas tank strap where the relay is attached, up to the threaded boss on the back of the alternator.

So instead of using the hotwire kit's tank lip ground, run a 10 GA wire from there directly to the alternator instead?

 

[earlbrown]

I happened upon Earl's tank-drop & fuel pump R & R write-up on the other Turbo Buick forum and I think I'll tackle the whole job myself...it doesn't look too challenging, and backing up onto some ramps and lowering the tank onto a 5-gallon pail is a great idea. He mentions to toss the OEM pulsator in the trash...is that the weird orange cylinder thing hanging from a wire off the fuel pump? And what does it do?

I was going to mention that doing the pump is easier than doing the hotwire kit.

The pulsator is what connects the pump to the hanger. It just pushes over the nipples like a sink drain with no positive clamping. It gets tossed and a piece of fuel hose with clamps goes in its place. MAKE sure to use SAE 30R10 hose. That hose HAS to be rated for high pressure AND submersion. If you use 30R09 fuel will seep in the cut ends and you'll be dropping the tank again. Odds are the pump will come with the correct hose.

If you know how to solder copper pipes, Add a ring terminal to the inside of the hanger for a pump ground, then add one to the outside of the hanger for an external ground. Also, I need to write a new article if I ever get time and add this new mod I came up with...

The last time I had my pump out, I was staring at how crappy the fuel level gauge is (and how it shouldn't work at all) so I cam up with this mod...

The blue wire makes the float arm an actual ground instead of just counting on it being grounded where it passes through the hold next to the resister strip). Notice I made a nice big loop. That way as the arm goes though it's range of motion it can't cause a lot of flex and fatigue on the connections (or make it hard for the arm to travel)

Now when I fill make tank it takes about 2 seconds for my gauge to read 'full' instead of 15 minutes. I can even see fuel slosh on my gauge now

 

[Coelacanth]

Thanks Earl, that's a cool mod. Yes, I have that correct fuel line in the fuel pump installation kit. Is it the consensus to run a 10 GA wire from the ground all the way to the alternator ground alongside the power line? The suggested ground with the clip to the tank lip isn't adequate? Thanks.

 

[earlbrown]

I ran my 10ga ground to the bumper shock bolt on the frame. Then (many months later) I ran a ground strap from the engine ground point to the frame.

When I did that my base fuel pressure jumped something like 6PSI and the car ran and felt much 'smoother'. It's hard to describe but grounding the frame made a noticeable seat of the pants difference.

I'm working on tooling up to make new battery cables that have a meaty frame ground wire on the negative and a good sized extra lead(s) on the positive for amps (other 'hotwire' type stuff that's stuck in my mind next to all the pr0n) or whatever needs some good current.

 

[Pronto]

I'm working on tooling up to make new battery cables that have a meaty frame ground wire on the negative and a good sized extra lead(s) on the positive for amps (other 'hotwire' type stuff that's stuck in my mind next to all the pr0n) or whatever needs some good current.

Something like this might work for the positive side.
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/pr...fuse-panels-with-power-distribution-products/

 

[Coelacanth]

Speaking of the battery ground, the Racetronix hotwire kit mentions an optional "battery ground cable upgrade"...because apparently the stock black battery cable is a motor ground, not a body ground. You could simply make your own 8 GA wire ground to the body. If doing that, would it still be necessary to run a 10 GA ground wire from the tank up to the alternator?

 

[Pronto]

I ran a 10 gauge ground to the fender by the battery. I have a 10 gauge ground off the battery going to the same spot. I nice big ground strap could be added from the negative cable mount on the block to the chassis easily enough.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

all my hotwires (coil, injector, fuel pumps,FAST) go directly to the battery for ground and power. Absolutely nothing better imo. Just get battery post extenders.

 

[Coelacanth]

Well, I have the Racetronix hotwire kit and rail-mounted fuel pressure gauge on order. Once I've verified fuel pressure readings on the gauge, I'll remove it and install an electronic FP transducer and wire it up to the UTCOMP device I'll purchase eventually. It should be fun to document that install as it'll be a first.