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Can I just switch to ARP Rod bolts& Main studs on a stockblock without any Machining?

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WIKEDV6

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 29, 2001
Messages
2,326
I pulled my motor to check everything; the short block has been sitting in the car for about 3years from a blown head gasket. I am also putting a new set of rod/ main bearings in it. I had my share of blown head gaskets. My question is; can I just switch to ARP bolts/ studs for the Rods/ Mains with out any machining? Can I just torque them to specs with the ARP lube? All the bearing are standard, anything I should watch out for?

T.I.A

Prasad
 
frankg said:
No you would need machining for different bolts. Frank

No meaning I have resize the rods because it would pull tighter and change the circle shape or is there a balancing issue?

Thanks

Prasad
 
You would need to get the rods machined becasue the stress inparted to the rod, when the bolts are pressed out and then new ones pressed in, would make the circle become an oval.

As far as mainstuds go, I have heard both. One way of thinking is similar to the rods, the circles will bcome oval and require an align hone. The other is that the circle will not change whatsoever and you can swap main cap bolts for studs with no issues. The only way to be certain is to get a dial bore guage and check it out.
 
I switched from bolts to main studs without any machining. However, I did torque them in 5 steps (105# final) and checked rotational "breakaway" torque after each step to insure there was no binding in the crank. Be sure to properly break-in the washer/nut friction surfaces as per ARP's instruction (5 full torque/relax cycles) and screw the studs in the block hand tight, then back out 1/2 turn before installing the crank and caps.
 
Not only resizing, the rod caps will also require machine work for a proper fit of the ARP rod bolts. I forget the correct term for the process, but bottom line is they work the rod cap's seat area around the bolt and had better know what their doing. ;)
 
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