Can your repair your own MAF?

[boostedmaxPSI]

I'm on my my 3rd MAF sensor and the bad ones are stacking up. What is the common problem with these? I've read that vibration leads to most failures.

Is there a way that I can pop this thing open and fix it? Has anybody attempted this?

FS

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by boostedmaxPSI
I'm on my my 3rd MAF sensor and the bad ones are stacking up. What is the common problem with these? I've read that vibration leads to most failures.

Is there a way that I can pop this thing open and fix it? Has anybody attempted this?

The level of sophistication in one is beyond mere mortals.
Several folks have looked into trying to repair them, and so far No Joy.

Get a Translator+, and get rid of the problems.

 

[Roger]

Like bruce said - Tranlator & LT1 or LS1 MAF. Many of the LARGE repair facilities have tried & can't seem to get the TR MAFs right.
I would get the Translator & a Spark Translator instead of a Translator+. The Spark Translator has an input which will change timing - like when your alky injection fails or a knock sensor goes off.

 

[turbofrank]

Are you using the metal pipe between the maf and turbo. This can kill the maf use the flex hose. I bought a maf from Advance
Auto 1yr ago and it's under warranty. Don't use the one shaped
like a hour glass heard bad things about them.

 

[boostedmaxPSI]

Thanks for all the replies... OK here's the scoop. With the local auto parts rebuilt MAF, my BLMs are at 150 dead on at idle and the MAF never hits 255 at WOT.

So, I borrowed an OEM AC delco unit and now my BLMs are at 123-128 and now I can hit 255 at WOT.

I do have a hard pipe between the turbo and the MAF.

The translator seems to be the way to go for the next outage.

Thanks
FS

 

[87 WE2]

If your used ones are correct GM originals, Kirban will buy them from you as cores to have them rebuilt. Its better then throwing them out.

 

[irockwithdirt]

Are you using the metal pipe between the maf and turbo. This can kill the maf use the flex hose

IS this true? I have been considering fabricating a big mouth kit........bad idea?

 

[6SENSE]

Originally posted by turbofrank
Are you using the metal pipe between the maf and turbo. This can kill the maf use the flex hose.

Never heard that, I'd like to hear more about it (specifics). Ive had a metal pipe for years and always thought it was a great improvement over the plastic.
Im using a ['87]GM MAF that usually has my BLMs in the 123-128 range, but have trouble hitting 255 AF#s at WOT. Ive tried another MAF and had no problem hitting 255, but driveability was lacking. Anyone know any specifics about Kirban buying the GM MAFs? Id like to sooner or later move to trans or trans+.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by 6SENSE
Never heard that, I'd like to hear more about it (specifics). Ive had a metal pipe for years and always thought it was a great improvement over the plastic.
Im using a ['87]GM MAF that usually has my BLMs in the 123-128 range, but have trouble hitting 255 AF#s at WOT. Ive tried another MAF and had no problem hitting 255, but driveability was lacking. Anyone know any specifics about Kirban buying the GM MAFs? Id like to sooner or later move to trans or trans+.

You say you have good BLM's but have trouble hitting 255.
At what boost level are you doing these runs?

Keep in mind that anything under 15# of boost on an original GM MAF may not see 255 until well over 4,000 rpm.
12-13# of boost and you may never see 255.
It's all a matter of air.

The hard pipe discussion has always been around, and is a maybe, maybe not kinda deal.

The MAF (original) in my 87 just refused to die, and it's had a hard pipe in front of it for over 12 years. That motor doesn't vibrate much though (original motor mounts).
The hard pipe usually wont kill a healthy MAF, but what would kill them in short order where those old ATR MAF mounts that bolted to the alternator braket

 

[tlap]

I know that this is an old post, but I haven't been able to find any newer information about weather someone can, or has had any success at taking a factory MAF apart.
The issue I have is that I live in California. The LT1 and translator is not smog compliant here unless it has an EO# from the mfg.
I have been through 3 A1 Cardone rebuilt units with no luck. I have performed the "tap test" on my original while it is running and it cuts out and misses. I would think that this is caused by a bad solder connection. I even swapped out an original MAF from a good running GN, so I know mine is the culprit.
1; How hard is it to get it apart and just re solder the circuit board?
2: Has anyone tried it and had any luck?
3; Is there a company that sells the LT1 and translator with an EO that is CARB legal?

 

[Jerryl]

Hard to do.
Probably have 4 choices:
1-Keep looking for a good MAF.
2-Add an aftermarket MAF and translator to stock airbox
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?threads/291694/
3-Go to a speed density setup (SD)
4-Move out of Cali. Lol

Good luck.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Guys on here can make a two step, adapt a ls coils, translators, modify ecms and all other types of cool stuff except repair an OE maf.
What about getting one of them maf cards and installing it onto an OE maf body? Yes using a translator just completely out of sight and reach.