Some of you may have seen my other post about getting rid of the power master. I finally have everything together and got the rear wheel cylinders bled last night. Had a buddy come over to bleed the fronts and the passenger side seems to bleed fine, but drivers keeps getting air. Pedal goes to the floor, and while in the wheel well I can actually hear the air in the lines. I have a line lock that seems like its seeping some fluid, so I need to bypass that, but it seems like if that was bad, I'd be getting air bubbles out the passenger caliper as well.
Can't bleed the new Hydroboost.
- Thread starter Roc87
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TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
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What MC are you using?
Known good?
Did you bleed the mc before installed or on car before trying to bleed to wheels?
I would try bleeding it with it on car. Careful that fluid takes paint off. If your pedal operator is stroking then pedal all the way to the floor that could be a problem too. I use a 2x4 under the pedal to prevent that. While stroking pedal use a steady fluid motion but not too quick as with the cap off the MC that fluid squirts up.
Known good?
Did you bleed the mc before installed or on car before trying to bleed to wheels?
I would try bleeding it with it on car. Careful that fluid takes paint off. If your pedal operator is stroking then pedal all the way to the floor that could be a problem too. I use a 2x4 under the pedal to prevent that. While stroking pedal use a steady fluid motion but not too quick as with the cap off the MC that fluid squirts up.
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M/C is a reman I bought off ebay, not known good. Bought it because it's aluminum with a white plastic reservoir, 1" bore and fittings were corrects, Rear port is for front brakes and front port is rear. It bench bled fine when I first rec'd it. When I bypassed my line lock I hooked up one of the bench bleed fittings to the rear port before re-attaching to the brake line, it seemed like it was getting a lot of air if I pressed pedal down like I would a normal stop. Tried that about 20 times, it didn't get any better. Just called Oreillys and had them order the '81 Seville M/C 10-1740, I think its cast, but has a plastic reservoir and a 1" bore. It should come in Tuesday.
I tell ya, this car is really testing my patience. I almost sold it before I had the engine work done, now with all the $ I spent on that and now the brakes, I'm wishing I would've.
I tell ya, this car is really testing my patience. I almost sold it before I had the engine work done, now with all the $ I spent on that and now the brakes, I'm wishing I would've.
Don't give up on it yet! You have two separate hydraulic systems in play--the one filled with power steering fluid, and the other with brake fluid. We need to determine which one is pissing on the driveway. I will bring my Might Vac (!) over and we can try bleeding it that way... Yes they test our patience, cause that's what they do. (Remind me of that when we start working on mine!)
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
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If you are bleeding on the car, look for little bubbles in the reservoir. Keep stroking the pedal until the little bubbles disappear. Sounds like it has air in the system.
Yep, air is in the system. The bubbles aren't getting any better while "Bench bleeding" on the car. I just removed the 2 15mm bolts holding the m/c to the HB, and a bunch of brake fluid came out. 95% sure it's brake fluid since the area on the frame it dripped onto is now the cleanest it's been in 27 years
Hope so, will install new (Well it's a reman as well) on Tuesday when it arrives. If it still acts up, I'll swap out the reman'd HB unit. Been using the search and a guy on here went through 3 reman'd HB units and then bought a used one from ebay and said it worked great.
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If it's brake fluid, it's not coming from the HB.
Also, just talked w/ a tech at Wilwood. he says: 1 1/8" mc, and a 10# residual valve, in the rear brake line, not more than 12" from the mc. [going on my LS T type.]
The HB on my 55 produces 2100psi at the wheels. You don't need a 1" mc with the HB's added force.
Also, the 1" will create longer pedal travel.
Also, just talked w/ a tech at Wilwood. he says: 1 1/8" mc, and a 10# residual valve, in the rear brake line, not more than 12" from the mc. [going on my LS T type.]
The HB on my 55 produces 2100psi at the wheels. You don't need a 1" mc with the HB's added force.
Also, the 1" will create longer pedal travel.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
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I went through 3 remans before I decided, just buy new. Nothing like bleeding a reman and then have it just leak out the back like you described. Someone told me the remans are not really much of a reman. I'm running the '81 Caddy Eldorado master (plastic resevoir) with a 84/85 hydrobooster without an accumulator.
It was a bad m/c, bench bled the reman'd caddy m/c, put it on and even with just bleeding the drivers caliper (the one I was getting so much air out of before) the pedal no longer hits the floor. Will bleed at the wheels (the proper way, lol) tomorrow morning.
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Sometimes, new is no better..
Just got a new Vette/Camaro/Chevelle mc from NAPA.
Bolted it up on the HB, to run the lines. Opened it up.....FULL of cast iron trash. went thru it w/ a magnet. Lots of it.
Got pi$$ed off, ordered a Wilwood. [Like I should have, to begin with.]
Ho Chi Min needs to update his QC program.
Just got a new Vette/Camaro/Chevelle mc from NAPA.
Bolted it up on the HB, to run the lines. Opened it up.....FULL of cast iron trash. went thru it w/ a magnet. Lots of it.
Got pi$$ed off, ordered a Wilwood. [Like I should have, to begin with.]
Ho Chi Min needs to update his QC program.
Sometimes, new is no better..
Just got a new Vette/Camaro/Chevelle mc from NAPA.
Bolted it up on the HB, to run the lines. Opened it up.....FULL of cast iron trash. went thru it w/ a magnet. Lots of it.
Got pi$$ed off, ordered a Wilwood. [Like I should have, to begin with.]
Ho Chi Min needs to update his QC program.
Wow, brand new? That's terrible! I really wanted a Wilwood M/C. The S10 m/c at least looked modern, the caddy one looked terrible, the plastic reservoir is yellow enough it matches my 27 y.o. washer fluid reservoir. Be sure to post up pics of the HB with the Wilwood M/C. You going to leave the stock proportioning valve?
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The tech at Wilwood gave me this #: 260-8556
1.12 bore. 3.22 to 3.40 mount hole centerline. He said this is what you want for a HB app.
He also said if I had rear drums, to use a 10# residual pressure valve in the rear line. It's to be mounted not more than 12" from the MC.
The MC and the residual valve came from BCI, here in Atlanta.
The HB came from Elliott Sydnam, in Dallas, TX. [sterlingworth16@yahoo.com]. He makes custom mounts for new HB units. Mine is inverted, & bolts directly to the firewall, so the accumulator is to the dr side fender. [Keeps it away from the LS coils.] $414.00 shipped.
Elliott also recommends a return line filter.
Cardone pt # 20-0038F is about $20, uses a cleanable filter. The NAPA # is 81-0589F.
I got the banjo fittings from Pure Choice Motorsports, in AZ.
I have this same HB on my 55. I couldn't get it to stop for
.[Only had about 7-800psi at the rotor. Added the HB, now have 2100psi! This MOFO will stop!
I also use the Wilwood adj prop valve on all my stuff.
I'll post some pics when it's done.
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