You can type here any text you want

Can't get brakes to bleed.

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
No and no. In some old thread on these forums people were debating whether the plunger really needs to be held in and it seemed most people said no. But I plan on making sure I have that pressed in the next time I bleed. And I also don't know if I have the replacement combo valve, I'd bet I don't.

Just a couple of things to check. My last battle with my PM brake system ended up being a bad (steel) combination valve.
 
I use a hand held vacuum pump to get them going if they are stubborn. Pull a little vacuum on the bleeder while someone pumps the pedal. I then use a clear piece of tube while bleeding to make sure no air bubbles. It's does not take that much to get all the air out.

If the back brakes are not adjusted right, the pedal will go down too far before the brakes engage.

Did you guys adjust the backs so the shoes slightly rub the drum? That's key for getting the pedal up on a front disk-rear drum brake system.

BTW I did a (Hydratech) hydroboost conversion recently, all new stainless lines and a new combination valve. My brakes are like money now.:biggrin: Insane braking power. Cant wait to get to the track.
 
Yeah I've wanted to go Hydroboost for years now but money ends up going towards other things.

I'm definitely going to adjust the rear shoes and see if that helps the pedal feel.
 
Ray, we bled right from the master last fall right? Maybe it has something to do with the combo valve pin.

The line blew and the car sat for awhile after that with the blown front left brake line right? I'm thinking all the fluid came out of that line and probably let air up to the master and when we filled it, bled from the master and then bled the front left we probably pushed air into the backs. I know the backs were adjusted right because you were fine before the line blew. We never bled the backs at all right?

Just trying to throw a little more info out to the master diagnosers on this site :)
 
Pretty sure front and rear brake circuits are isolated from one another. (Hence a two sided reservoir) I don't think air in the front brakes can get into the back.
 
Pretty sure front and rear brake circuits are isolated from one another. (Hence a two sided reservoir) I don't think air in the front brakes can get into the back.

Yep, agreed but I think the fronts were bled before the master was bled so it probably pushed air through.
 
Rob, i see your point, we did bleed from the master cylinder. but we didn't blled the backs i could see how air could get in there. we will find out, btw i got all the parts.
 
I've blown every line on my car excepting the drivers side front short line, that's due to go any day now. :p :rolleyes:

Anyhow I always bleed all 4 brakes starting pass. rear and work my way up front.

Never had a problem other than air where it shouldn't be and usually only had to bleed once occasionally twice but that was when a rear line blew.

Never bench bled either, other than on original dry powermaster install.

Just my .02.
 
Ray your new master and power booster look the same as mine. Maybe the internals are different though because the master was wrong.

P1030083.jpg
 
Truly don't know. The pedal is so low but the brakes grab hard at the end. I don't see how it could still be air but it seems like it is. Could certainly be a mushy swolen line though.

Where are you taking it for tires? Maybe they can give it a look.
 
Truly don't know. The pedal is so low but the brakes grab hard at the end. I don't see how it could still be air but it seems like it is. Could certainly be a mushy swolen line though.

Where are you taking it for tires? Maybe they can give it a look.

Did you adjust the backs?
 
Manually with the drum off, ebraked and backed up and stopped many times. Backs seem good, it built boost before the rears broke free so it seems they are adjusted and holding.
 
Hydroboost conversion

When you did the vacuum conversion, did you connect the rod to the original Powermaster pedal? The pin location is way higher, and will cause the springy pedal, along with breaking the plastic valve body in the booster. The ratio is too high. The Powermaster has a 1.250" master piston inside, and the Regal vacuum booster has a much smaller piston. You must change to a Regal vacuum booster pedal to do this conversion. The Hydroboost uses the same pedal as a Powermaster, though.
 
the brakes are all good now, replaced every metal and rubber line on the car, there was just to many places where fluid could have been getting out, so i started fresh, work like new now.
 
Back
Top