Just a couple of things to check. My last battle with my PM brake system ended up being a bad (steel) combination valve.
Can't get brakes to bleed.
- Thread starter rayboy231
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
Just a couple of things to check. My last battle with my PM brake system ended up being a bad (steel) combination valve.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
- Messages
- 10,083
I use a hand held vacuum pump to get them going if they are stubborn. Pull a little vacuum on the bleeder while someone pumps the pedal. I then use a clear piece of tube while bleeding to make sure no air bubbles. It's does not take that much to get all the air out.
If the back brakes are not adjusted right, the pedal will go down too far before the brakes engage.
Did you guys adjust the backs so the shoes slightly rub the drum? That's key for getting the pedal up on a front disk-rear drum brake system.
BTW I did a (Hydratech) hydroboost conversion recently, all new stainless lines and a new combination valve. My brakes are like money now.:biggrin: Insane braking power. Cant wait to get to the track.
If the back brakes are not adjusted right, the pedal will go down too far before the brakes engage.
Did you guys adjust the backs so the shoes slightly rub the drum? That's key for getting the pedal up on a front disk-rear drum brake system.
BTW I did a (Hydratech) hydroboost conversion recently, all new stainless lines and a new combination valve. My brakes are like money now.:biggrin: Insane braking power. Cant wait to get to the track.
BlackMetal
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2005
- Messages
- 4,688
Yeah I've wanted to go Hydroboost for years now but money ends up going towards other things.
I'm definitely going to adjust the rear shoes and see if that helps the pedal feel.
I'm definitely going to adjust the rear shoes and see if that helps the pedal feel.
Ray, we bled right from the master last fall right? Maybe it has something to do with the combo valve pin.
The line blew and the car sat for awhile after that with the blown front left brake line right? I'm thinking all the fluid came out of that line and probably let air up to the master and when we filled it, bled from the master and then bled the front left we probably pushed air into the backs. I know the backs were adjusted right because you were fine before the line blew. We never bled the backs at all right?
Just trying to throw a little more info out to the master diagnosers on this site
The line blew and the car sat for awhile after that with the blown front left brake line right? I'm thinking all the fluid came out of that line and probably let air up to the master and when we filled it, bled from the master and then bled the front left we probably pushed air into the backs. I know the backs were adjusted right because you were fine before the line blew. We never bled the backs at all right?
Just trying to throw a little more info out to the master diagnosers on this site
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
- Messages
- 10,083
Pretty sure front and rear brake circuits are isolated from one another. (Hence a two sided reservoir) I don't think air in the front brakes can get into the back.
Yep, agreed but I think the fronts were bled before the master was bled so it probably pushed air through.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 20,931
I've blown every line on my car excepting the drivers side front short line, that's due to go any day now. 
Anyhow I always bleed all 4 brakes starting pass. rear and work my way up front.
Never had a problem other than air where it shouldn't be and usually only had to bleed once occasionally twice but that was when a rear line blew.
Never bench bled either, other than on original dry powermaster install.
Just my .02.
Anyhow I always bleed all 4 brakes starting pass. rear and work my way up front.
Never had a problem other than air where it shouldn't be and usually only had to bleed once occasionally twice but that was when a rear line blew.
Never bench bled either, other than on original dry powermaster install.
Just my .02.
Truly don't know. The pedal is so low but the brakes grab hard at the end. I don't see how it could still be air but it seems like it is. Could certainly be a mushy swolen line though.
Where are you taking it for tires? Maybe they can give it a look.
Where are you taking it for tires? Maybe they can give it a look.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
- Messages
- 10,083
Did you adjust the backs?
POWERBRAKEBOB
Banned
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2005
- Messages
- 318
Hydroboost conversion
When you did the vacuum conversion, did you connect the rod to the original Powermaster pedal? The pin location is way higher, and will cause the springy pedal, along with breaking the plastic valve body in the booster. The ratio is too high. The Powermaster has a 1.250" master piston inside, and the Regal vacuum booster has a much smaller piston. You must change to a Regal vacuum booster pedal to do this conversion. The Hydroboost uses the same pedal as a Powermaster, though.
When you did the vacuum conversion, did you connect the rod to the original Powermaster pedal? The pin location is way higher, and will cause the springy pedal, along with breaking the plastic valve body in the booster. The ratio is too high. The Powermaster has a 1.250" master piston inside, and the Regal vacuum booster has a much smaller piston. You must change to a Regal vacuum booster pedal to do this conversion. The Hydroboost uses the same pedal as a Powermaster, though.
