Ok yes, I have asked this question before, and got a lot of things to check or replace... and want to thank everyone for all there help..... Fast forward to last week, where I was sold on the fact the valve springs were failing. So last night I had the car out, and a buddy of mine asked me a question about the alternator when he seen the inside light on when the car was running. He told me your alternator is going bad, I said no way, I scanned thru the scanmaster and powerlogger and found volts. the car was running and numbers# 11.23-bouncing up to 14.8 just at idle. Then he asked does the car break up in higher RPM's I said Yes... He said that is your problem, Can it be that easy a Bad Alternator???????? Feedback Please!!!
car breaks up at 5200 rpm
- Thread starter qws2000
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Where's the log? 
TURBOPOWERED68
David
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could be anything.
I suffered from low voltage (PL & SM) and never broke up.
Mine broke up because of a bad Coil pack and OR module - i replaced both at the same time.
Post up a log of it breaking up.
I suffered from low voltage (PL & SM) and never broke up.
Mine broke up because of a bad Coil pack and OR module - i replaced both at the same time.
Post up a log of it breaking up.
huntsg
Active Member
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Check alternator. Then coil pack. Probably coil pack.
If you are running beehives as listed in your sig, the max lift is .525. Whats the rocker ratio? the comp 218/212 is advertised as .511@1.55 (again, assuming thats what your listing in your sig). if you have 1.60 for instance you will be around .527
Good idea. I would still look into the alternator issue as well.
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Not specifically 200amp ones, ive seen a few dead alternators here recently all different makes.
David Husek
Turbo Buick Performance
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- Mar 16, 2007
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Why the motor is shutting off at 5600 before is you have a XE 218 lobe with .528 lift. That lobe needs a min of 400# over the nose. Your springs barely reach 320# open, even being a beehive, its still 50-60# light. The springs are probably going away quickly, also why it is shutting off earlier now. The voltage can be a problem; the light should never come on. It is most likely an unrelated problem to your rev problem, but should be addressed immediately. Charge you battery right away or you will be changing that also....
TurboTdr3.8
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My car is doing the same thing at 4900 to 5200 rpm max and hits a wall , done the alt , still same issue , my cam is alittle bigger and GN1 alum heads and 1.60 rockers, pulled a valve spring at Richard Clarks and checked it but seems to be in specs but car still will not turn 4900 to 5200 max . I think Im having a beehive spring problem also because I have changed all the usual to trying to correct the problem . What valve springs do I need to correct this ?
TurboTdr3.8 said:
Your spring pressure was lighter than I would have liked to see but was enough for the rpm/boost you were running. I can set you up with springs that will eliminate them as being the problem.
qws2000 said:
Yours are double conventional springs and will be Approx 510-520lbs over the nose at theoretical lift. Conical springs work excellent if they are the correct ones for the correct application. Ive used the old 26918 on low lift hyd cam with slow ramps and the car hauled ass. Ive also used the larger 26120 conical and kicked ass with them too. There are even stronger ones out there also. With over 400lbs over the nose a standard wall 5/16 pushrod may be a problem. Anytime any spring is used and the pressures needed aren't met or the installed pressures are unknown you will get an unpredictable result more often than not.
