Car jerking, popping, and stuttering


I have been working on my transmission and the car has not been used for almost 3 months. When I reinstalled the transmission and drove the car for the first time (and since then) it has been driving very poorly with the jerking popping and stuttering. The gas was low and so I added some fresh. I changed the fuel filter. I also installed a used LT1 MAF (3.5") with a new Translator. Code 34 MAF keeps showing even after I reset the computer (orange wire off). Does anyone have any ideas where to go next? Thanks.
Grounds? Ground strap reconnected and secured to firewall? All electrical connectors plugged back in? Translator setting correct for MAF?
Yes, it started at 06 moved up as I slowly pushed the gas pedal up to 225 or so.

If the af number moves with tps and the engine is off, that would indicate the maf is disconnected.
Make sure the plugs on the translator are plugged in right. There is one that will can be flipped.

What are your switch settings inside the translator?
Switch settings are on on on off. I have a turbo tweak chip. I'll have to check all of the grounds again. I knew about the ground from the transmission to the firewall. Iam sure that I reconnected it while reinstalling the transmission. But....its always good to double check.
I also noticed that the O2 readings under light acceleration were showing very low- 50 to 60- when I was driving. Is this normal?
This evening I connected the voltmeter between the MAF harness connector "B" and a ground. It read 5.08 volts. I also visually checked the grounds and all seem okay. Is there another way to check the grounds? Thanks.
Sir, I will say it one more time.

AF# should not move with the engine off. The only time it will is if the maf is disconnected. In this case the ECM generates the signal.

If af # moves with the throttle and the engine is off, your maf is somehow disconnected. Check the plugs on the translator. There is one that will plug in upside down. It's a common place for error. If thats not it, try another maf.
Hey thanks everybody. I'm waiting for another MAF to see if that is the problem. I can't test until I get it. I'll check the tcs too. Plugs on MAF all double and triple checked until I just broke the clip on the harness connector. :rolleyes: Pink to pink, right?!

It's a weird coincidence that my stock MAF was possibly bad, and then the used 3.5" MAF I bought was bad. Strike 2. Isn't it fun trying to track down problems with money!
I have good news and bads news. The good news is that I found 2 broken ground wires (black with white stripe). I repaired them and the car is not popping anymore. It is also running better but still with lots of hesitation when the gas pedal is pushed.

I also received my 3rd MAF. The bad news is that this is the 3rd one that is not being recognized. Service Engine Light on and code 34 on the scan tool. I was hoping the ground problem would make the MAF problem go away. If not that, then at least the 3rd MAF would do the trick. Tonight off will come the translator and back on will go the original MAF sensor. What's next? Can the connector from the harness be bad?
Check for +12 on the pink wire at the MAF.

Check continuity on the ground(black wire) on the MAF.. to chassis ground..

At that point your looking at a bad ecm or broken wire from MAF to ecm. Not much else.
I found on vortex-buicks a trouble shooting step by step list to follow. With ignition on, engine off Terminal B on harness to ground on chassis reads 5 volts. Using a test light, when I connected the A and C terminals on the harness, no light came on. Using a test light, harness A terminal to chassis ground, light was on. According to these troubleshooting steps, I have an open CKT 450? This is shown as a black-white wire problem? Does that sound right?

Then, with translator hooked up, ignition on, engine off, I read the connector that comes out of the translator and into the MAF. The pink wire to the ground chassis read 10.83. The ground (black wire) to the ground chassis read 7.04. Does that make any sense?

Please help!
Sounds like the ground is missing.

Make a temporary jumper wire off the motor somewhere and tie it to the blk/wht wire. See if that works.
just throwing this out there, might want to check your ecm fuses also. My car ran fine when I put it together but I did end up having a bad ecm fuse.