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Car keeps stalling need help

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1984 t-type

Murphy's Law
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
1,516
Took my 87 t type out today and it was running great, went for about an 1/8 mile wot blast and right after it was running a little rough. Pulled over to make sure no hoses or vac lines came off everything looked ok, afterwards it wanted to stall out when ideling in park or whenever I came to a light or stop sign. Put it on the freeway for about 20 miles to get back home and no issues ran great as long as I was moving, soon as I came off the expressway and stopped it cut off. Got home and let it sit for a few hours and now when I go to start it she fires right up revs high as if im on the gas and cuts off, from start to stall only takes a second or two. Also I noticed when my issues first started the car would rev slightly without me pressing the gas pedal, like I would be driving give it gas and let off but the car would still rev for a second or so. No ses light no codes. Any ideas ?
 
If your sure there are no hoses off and you have a scan master . I'd make sure the iac and tps are correct. If there all good try resetting the ECM with the small wire by the battery. If the idle is erratic you need to make sure the iac is correctly set.
 
Tried resetting the ecm already, tps is good, can't remember what the iac was and it won't run long enough not to get a reading unless I play with the gas.
 
If the tps and the iac are ok, are you using the stock flex intake hose or a metal pipe? May have developed a leak in the flex or a vacuum leak via one of the hoses.
 
Since it happened after being in boost, I would take a close look at the inter cooler couplings and maf pipe connections. Trace out the the vacuum lines from the vacuum block to were they go. Something had to blow off.
 
Take the coil and ICM off take it apart and see if it looks ok. Melted or burnt looking inside is not good. Post up your BLM #'s


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Will try the coil and module later. Reset the iac and tps and that seemed to help temporarily but after I let it sit for a while it's back to reving high then stalling. every time I just barley give it gas it revs real high and then settles back down. Blm was at 142 can't get a good reading now.
 
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Make sure to check the IAC valve for tightness up against the gasket and throttle body.

I don't know how it did it but mine some how loosened up and the engine would surge in RPM's and idle like crap. I went and bought a new IAC valve to replace it. And when i unplugged the connector from the IAC is when i noticed it was loose. I tightened it up and all was good again. I'm getting ready to take the new IAC back in a little while and get my money back.
 
Ok, IAC is tight, everything looks as it should between coil and module, can't visually find any vacuum leaks, TPS has a full sweep 0-4.86 and is set at .46, I'm running into a brick wall here
 
What is the IAC reading at hot Idle? One thing you can try is to set the IAC with the car hot but in Drive, not park. Takes 2 people to do this as someone needs to hold the brakes while the adjustment is made. Be sure to go back and make sure the TPS is correct aftet adjusting the throttle plate. Most chips raise the idle in park and drop it in drive. I always set my IAC in drive and never had problems.
 
Can't get it to run long enough to get the engine up to temp. I did reset the IAC and TPS that brought the idle down a tad but after it sat for a while was right back the same. I'm thinking possibly a bad IAC but I don't want to just start throwing parts at it.
 
Although I do have the RJC PCV and a new grommet form Kirbans and it does not seem to be a real tight fit between the 2 but it has been this way since day 1 and I have never had any problems out of it.
 
If I do just go ahead and buy a new IAC ( which i am leaning towards ) are the auto parts store ones any good or should i just order a new ac delco one ?
 
BWD is a good brand. But before you do that pull yours out make sure the end is still attached.
 
Here is some "long shot" ideas, intake man. gasket may have blown out into the valley. Map sensor may have been damaged, causing a leak, or was the backfire violent enough to retard the timing?
 
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