car pop'n under boost.

i dont think its knock.... this is a full, like... hmmm.. jumping.. its not detonation.... unless what i think is detonation is completly different from what i think.. ( i think detonation sounds like a ... valve rattling.. ??? )

That's what detonation sounds like, it's not going to sound like a bomb going off. It's a rattling/ticking sound when you are in the car.

If you hear it, or if your scanmaster tells you that you have knock retard, get off the gas immediately.

could my coil pack be going out??? and.. i dont know what kind is on the car. any ideas?? heres a pic...

http://i.imgur.com/asvMo.jpg

Can't tell if it's going out, but that doesn't look like my gn's coil pack. That is a much different looking setup.

the big vaccum line off the top of TB it goes to the intake.. does that have to complete there?? mine is just plugged!

The big vacuum line off the throttlebody should be going to the PCV valve which is located on the intake manifold, right above the valley of the motor. It's behind the intake runner for #4 but in front of #6. If it's unplugged, plug the hose into the top of the pcv valve. That's a freaking huge vacuum/boost leak.

this is a turbo tweak chip also.

Good. He does good stuff. It's not your chip, you have other problems.

i just noticed i have no screen in my MAF!

It's possible your maf is jacked up, but fix that vacuum leak first. If you still have problems, then take a look at your maf and swap one out with a known good one if you have any buddies with turbo regals.

You are jumping around all over the map here, first you need to focus on your apparent vacuum leak and solve it. After you do that, drive it and tell us what your idle blms and int look like, also get on it and check out the 02 millivolts and the knock retard and report back.
 
update. put 1 screen in MAF in the front before the sensor. new numbers

af 04
l8 28
bat 11.6
int 128
bl 142
clt 164
ats 86
tps .44
iac 101
cc 14

i have a spare MAF im going to put on and try.
 
found where my screen went!!! i pulled this MAF off.. and the screen i just put in was missing.. it blew it back into the filter! and there was another in there also..
 
ok.. now i got detonation.. but only in weird places.. 2nd gear @ like 21lbs.. then it clears up over 23-24lbs in 2nd and 3rd.
 
put a new coil pack on.. new numbers.. and getting MAL 43

af 05
l8 32
bat 12.1
int 128
bl 140
clt 167
ats 75
r 850
tps .48
iac 36
cc 236

mal 43
 
What is your TPS at WOT? It was low before. You should get at least 3.8, but should be able to reach 4.2 easily.

Remove your TV cable and recheck. It may be mis-adjusted and not allowing full voltage at WOT.

Just a thought...


Mike
 
From: Malfunction Codes Reference



CODE 43

Trouble Code 43 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the Electronic Spark Control (ESC) circuit.

ESC is used to sense spark knock (pinging) and retard the timing to eliminate it. A knock sensor (located at the rear of the engine block) sends signals to an ESC module which then signals the ECM that knocking is being detected. The ECM will retard the timing by as much as 20 degrees in 1 degree increments. A loss of knock sensor signal or loss of ground at the ESC module will cause the signal at the ECM to remain high. The ECM will act as if no knock is present, and may possibly result in engine damage, if there is detonation.

Loss of the ESC signal to the ECM will cause the ECM to constantly retard the timing to its maximum. This results in sluggish performance and a Code 43.


The conditions for setting this code are:

Engine is running
ESC input signal has been low more than 2.23 seconds



Typical causes for this code include:

1) Open or shorted knock sensor
2) Loose knock sensor
3) Excessive mechanical noise within engine
4) Improper or incorrectly installed PROM or CALPACK in the ECM or defective ECM
5) Intermittent open in the EST line to the ignition module



Probably from the excessive knock sensed. Have you replaced your o2 sensor? Maybe it is reading off and not allowing the computer to properly supply fuel. I know it sounds far off, maybe impossible. With your mods - I would suggest a translator and LT1 MAF and getting a WBO2 for more accurate readings.

Check every vacuum line/hose on the car. Take your fingers and run down them and check for brittle hoses etc.

When did the car run good last?

Have you added/changed anything since?


Mike
 
i just had the head gaskets changed not long ago.. and... when i ordered intake gaskets the guy asked me which ones were they... he said there were 2 different ones.. would that make a difference???? but i believe the car has run good since then..
 
i just had the head gaskets changed not long ago.. and... when i ordered intake gaskets the guy asked me which ones were they... he said there were 2 different ones.. would that make a difference???? but i believe the car has run good since then..

You can probably either get a one piece intake gasket with a valley bridge or you can get the set that has one that goes on each head. Shouldn't matter unless they aren't sealed.
 
ok.. heres what ive done so far.

total reset of ECM

16lbs of boost, 10% fuel overall
-5.3degrees of timing in 1st/2nd

recall:
792 0.0 049 00

still have the cutting out/popping..
 
Well it's not popping because it's lean. That's right about where you want it.

Just out of curiosity, have you checked the cam sensor? I'm gonna go watch your videos now.
 
Ok how about this. How long has it been since it's popped and run like this?

Did it just start doing it randomly, did you change something on your motor, or did you buy the car and it just ran like that?

I could hear the popping, it sounded like it completely fell on its face in the second video. Your exhaust has a nice tone to it though, and the motor seemed to really wake up when the turbo spooled, right before it popped. At least there are some positives, right? ;)
 
no i havent.. how do i check if its good???

I'd be more concerned that it's set correctly than it being good or bad. If your engine will start, it's working. It really sounds to me like a timing issue.

I'll wait to see your response to my last question, then I'll tell ya how to check the cam sensor to make sure it's set right. :biggrin:
 
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