Car still pops and spits.

robertf

Active Member
I thought I was having ignition module issues mainly because when the car is cold is pulls hard as hell, but once around the block and it starts bucking/popping/backfiring. Idles very well, drives very smooth at cruise/highway speeds as long as no boost is applied. I have installed the TR6 ignition which did not cure it. What am I looking for next?
 
Will do tomorrow morn. Rick, at Bobs request, I removed the Caspers cap and reinstalled the OEM for the TR6. I check for slack and the sensor felt new. Will get under the car and check crank sensor. If it looks tight, should I replace it just in case?
 
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I thought I was having ignition module issues mainly because when the car is cold is pulls hard as hell, but once around the block and it starts bucking/popping/backfiring. Idles very well, drives very smooth at cruise/highway speeds as long as no boost is applied. I have installed the TR6 ignition which did not cure it. What am I looking for next?

Fuel pump ...

Whats the fuel pressure say ?
 
So, if I understand correctly, you couldn't solve the perceived ignition module problems in stock form, and after not fixing those very issues, you elected to make wholesale changes to the ignition system?

I'm not trying to be a dick here, and I'm often wrong more than I am right, but does this seem to be sort of an obvious question or does it need to be spelled out for you?

Fix it in stock form, THEN make changes, ONE AT A TIME, and only AFTER you get it fixed in stock form.....

I'm not trying to preach, just passing on what knowledgeable guys have given me.........
 
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So, if I understand correctly, you couldn't solve the perceived ignition module problems in stock form, and after not fixing those very issues, you elected to make wholesale changes to the ignition system?

I'm not trying to be a dick here, and I'm often wrong more than I am right, but does this seem to be sort of an obvious question or does it need to be spelled out for you?

Fix it in stock form, THEN make changes, ONE AT A TIME, and only AFTER you get it fixed in stock form.....
Well at one point a couple of people told me it was likely the module since they've been known to failure. I had a new GM coil pack and that did'nt fix it. I did'nt really attempt to fix it in stock form. I had been wanting the TR6 since it was more modern ignition and decided not to waste money on a new module so I applied the money towards the TR6. I knew there was no guarantee the TR6 would correct anything.
 
Well at one point a couple of people told me it was likely the module since they've been known to failure. I had a new GM coil pack and that did'nt fix it. I had been telling myself I wanted a TR6 and decided not to buy a new module instead apply the money towards a more modern ignition.

Again, not criticizing, just saying that if the "Newest & Bestest didn't fix the OLD problem, it's time you find your way back to what DID work and move forward from there.

I'm in the middle of a boost control issue right now. Gnashing of teeth and wringing of hands........it driving me nuts.

Between Me, my buddy Tom,. Lou Czarnota, and Nick Micale, we'll get it figured out. I'm thinking the first 2 layers of folk, we'll get it done, but who knows?????
 
If it looks tight, should I replace it just in case?

Take it off, clean the connector, pins, a bit of di-electric grease, look for damage to both the sensor and the wheel.
Reinstall and set the air gap.
While you're under there, verify the 25*ATDC mark on the balancer. I use white model airplane paint, and a fine tip model maker brush to mark TDC and 25*. Recheck the cam sensor setting.
 
Will do tomorrow morn. Rick, at Bobs request, I removed the Caspers cap and reinstalled the OEM for the TR6. I check for slack and the sensor felt new. Will get under the car and check crank sensor. If it looks tight, should I replace it just in case?

Is the motor stock?

In my experience the crank sensor can be finicky. Look for signs that the wheel has contacted the crank sensor. Rotate the the balancer and check all three blades. One blade could be slightly bent. Also like Chuck mentioned, make sure the balancer is tight.

A new crank sensor and bracket are only $30 from Highway stars.
 
Is the motor stock?

In my experience the crank sensor can be finicky. Look for signs that the wheel has contacted the crank sensor. Rotate the the balancer and check all three blades. One blade could be slightly bent. Also like Chuck mentioned, make sure the balancer is tight.

A new crank sensor and bracket are only $30 from Highway stars.
Motor is stock less the ported Champ heads and port matched Champ intake. 50lb injectors/TT chip/alky. Thats about it. Whats weird is stone cold the car pulls very hard. Not a hiccup. It's 10 blocks down the road is where everything goes south.
 
Had this issue before. 2 things I would look into. At the ignition module, probe the connector. There is a ground pin out that is shared between a lot of different senors. Check that it is getting a good ground. You can also check this by the ecu as well. If that ground goes south, so does everything else. What I did to remedy this issue, was to splice into that ground near the ignition module and ground it to the intake or the back of the head.
2) probe the wires going to you cam sensor. Chances are there is a broken wire under the loom. Go on gnttype.org and download the schematic for both spots and take a multi meter and probe it. When doing so check at the connection, and then check about 12 inches after the connection near the center of the driverside valve cover. The older these cars get the more electrical gremlins pop up on 30 year old wiring that has seen countless heat cycles.
 
The last woman I was with popped and spit too, so I left her ass. Oh wait, this is engine tech, wrong section, sorry guys.

I asked Lou about this. He said that the pop/spitting was due to the "victim" laffing so hard, she choked!! :finger::D
 
How did my name get involved in this meeting of the minds and I am honored to be included with this Society of automotive engineers. Such a gathering of talent is unprecedented and privilege to be a part of . :wacky:
 
Had this issue before. 2 things I would look into. At the ignition module, probe the connector. There is a ground pin out that is shared between a lot of different senors. Check that it is getting a good ground. You can also check this by the ecu as well. If that ground goes south, so does everything else. What I did to remedy this issue, was to splice into that ground near the ignition module and ground it to the intake or the back of the head.
2) probe the wires going to you cam sensor. Chances are there is a broken wire under the loom. Go on gnttype.org and download the schematic for both spots and take a multi meter and probe it. When doing so check at the connection, and then check about 12 inches after the connection near the center of the driverside valve cover. The older these cars get the more electrical gremlins pop up on 30 year old wiring that has seen countless heat cycles.

Good advice and if that fails to fix it the ECM itself has been the culprit in my own experience.
 
I would like to take this opportunity to give props to GNRick for stepping in here and rating my post # 6 to be "dumb". I don't think I've ever done something like that here..........but, whatever. It's your opinion, and you are entitled to it.

The fact is GNRick has completely failed to follow through with any suggestion as to how robertf should go about fixing his issue.

I'll just go with "No harm, No foul".


robertf, I truly hope you do get the problem resolved quickly and then post the fix here.

You've piqued a lot of interest........
 
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