CCW Wheels RUB BAD with Hotchkis Suspension Setup, Options/Opinions PLEASE!

[scot w.]

Thanks for the tips! So is there a bump steer improvement from going to DSE 2 inch lowering springs in the front, over 2 inch drop spindles?

The DSE springs at $200, is what I'm looking to get and reinstall the stock spindles. Is there other good ones out there that will do the same? Part numbers please.

My goal is to have my fender line cover 1/4 to 1/2 of my tire. Thanks again!

Beautiful looking car!!

I'm not positive but I think the DSE 2" drop springs are the only true 2" drop springs available right now. I have them on my personal car with the stock spindles.

I also have the DSE upper & lower A-arms which incorporate DSE 'caster tuner bushings'. These aluminum bushings adjust caster by moving the upper control arm Fore & Aft for more or less caster without adding alignment shims. Both upper & lower DSE A-arms help increase camber gain and improve roll camber.

If your interested in the 2" drop springs give us a call, we will be happy to help..

Scot W.

 

[jdpolzin]

Thanks for the tips! So is there a bump steer improvement from going to DSE 2 inch lowering springs in the front, over 2 inch drop spindles?

The DSE springs at $200, is what I'm looking to get and reinstall the stock spindles. Is there other good ones out there that will do the same? Part numbers please.

My goal is to have my fender line cover 1/4 to 1/2 of my tire. Thanks again!

I'll let Scott expalin DSE's products as I'm not completely familiar with the kit. But, yes, springs will help. Just get rid of the BellTechs and at least put your stock spindes on. Or get a spindle/brake set up from a Blazer so you can have the larger brakes while your at it!

 

[Silver Fox]

In addition to bump steer (which typically occurs when we run over bumps causing the alignment to change as the suspension moves up and down through its travel), we have another problem called tramlining.

Tramlining can happen on a flat road (no bumps/minimal suspension travel) which have "traffic grooves" worn in them. The tires try to dart in the grooves. Directional tires tend to be worse in regards to this.

I fooled around with my suspension for years trying to get it to stop tramlining. It finally stopped when I swapped out my directional Toyo tires for asymmetrical Vredestein tires.

Might not be the case for you (especially with the dropped spindles), but may be something worth considering - with the wide tire you are running on front.

Rob

 

[Raist103]

anyone know the exact amount wilwood pushing the wheels out front and rear? baer wanted too much for their set up. wilwood is half the price.

 

[scot w.]

anyone know the exact amount wilwood pushing the wheels out front and rear? baer wanted too much for their set up. wilwood is half the price.

Looks like for the fronts it's just a $16.00 difference!! PLUS with the BAER kit you get the braided stainless steel lines!!!

Half the price? and half the size too! Wilwoods LARGEST front rotor is only 11" (Stock is 10.75")!! and Does Not come with braided brake lines. Plus add on several hundred more for powder coated calipers and drilled & slotted rotors which comes to $979.00 to be equal to the BAER kit BUT the BAER kit has

Wilwood does not offer a rear kit for our g-body cars without a bunch of measuring from you first. Then it won't have large rotors either..


Below is the SS4 front kit from BAER, BAER introduced a new SS4+ front that features a 4 piston caliper mounted to an 11" 2pc rotor. Below is a picture..

This is largest brake they can fit in a 15" wheel. They offer this build on spindles, or in parts (like shown) so you can modify your own. As pictured (with powder option) runs $995.00.

This is an aluminum caliper, stainless pistons, dust and weather sealed (meets DOT specs), 11" 2pc rotor (directional so specific left and right), billet hubs (with timken tapered bearings), hoses, pads, fittings etc.

This has all the benefits of their larger brakes just in a smaller package!


Scot W. (Everything pictured comes with the kit)

 

[Raist103]

i wasn't bashing baer i have their 13" set up on my typhoon.
i saw wilwoods for 600-650 for the fronts or rears. i don't plan to pay 1000+ for each set. thats to much cash for what i use the car for. 1300 i can see paying for fronts and rears. if wilwood doesn't have the rear to bolt up ill have to go with the ls1 set up i dont auto cross, this is a street car with some track time and i would like some better stopping power and some better looks "rear disc"

do you happen to know what the wilwoods or ls1s push the wheel out?

Looks like for the fronts it's just a $16.00 difference!! PLUS with the BAER kit you get the braided stainless steel lines!!!

Half the price? and half the size too! Wilwoods LARGEST front rotor is only 11" (Stock is 10.75")!! and Does Not come with braided brake lines. Plus add on several hundred more for powder coated calipers and drilled & slotted rotors which comes to $979.00 to be equal to the BAER kit BUT the BAER kit has

Wilwood does not offer a rear kit for our g-body cars without a bunch of measuring from you first. Then it won't have large rotors either..


Below is the SS4 front kit from BAER, BAER introduced a new SS4+ front that features a 4 piston caliper mounted to an 11" 2pc rotor. Below is a picture..

This is largest brake they can fit in a 15" wheel. They offer this build on spindles, or in parts (like shown) so you can modify your own. As pictured (with powder option) runs $995.00.

This is an aluminum caliper, stainless pistons, dust and weather sealed (meets DOT specs), 11" 2pc rotor (directional so specific left and right), billet hubs (with timken tapered bearings), hoses, pads, fittings etc.

This has all the benefits of their larger brakes just in a smaller package!


Scot W. (Everything pictured comes with the kit)

 

[scot w.]

i wasn't bashing baer i have their 13" set up on my typhoon.
i saw wilwoods for 600-650 for the fronts or rears. i don't plan to pay 1000+ for each set. thats to much cash for what i use the car for. 1300 i can see paying for fronts and rears. if wilwood doesn't have the rear to bolt up ill have to go with the ls1 set up i dont auto cross, this is a street car with some track time and i would like some better stopping power and some better looks "rear disc"

do you happen to know what the wilwoods or ls1s push the wheel out?

Everything is fine here, I never thought you were bashing anyone!

I just know the difference between the two because I get asked this on a weekly basis and just wanted people to know the true difference between the two set up's. Wilwood is a proven brake company just like BAER but BAER happens to offer true bolt-on kits for our cars in various sizes.

Wilwood does not have a rear kit per say, but will Make you one after some measuring by you and I was told this morning that the rear kit would cost the same $979.00 as the front. and that is without brake lines.

No I do not know off hand how much LS1 or Wilwood brakes push the wheel outwards but I can tell you exactly how much the BAER brake set up pushes the wheels out.

Front: 1/2"
Rear: 1/8"


Scot W.