changing out brake lines
- Thread starter LS954
- Start date
Front bleeders are 10mm and the rears are 8mm. Be really careful not to break them. Soak them good as noted. One trick I learned is on really stubborn ones, you can heat them up and then blast them lightly with starting fluid. This rapidly cools the bleeder and can break it loose. Obviously, be careful with heat and don't get them really hot.
For the rears, I used a deep well 8mm socket to loosen the bleeders. I then removed the socket and ran aquarium tubing through the socket using vise grips to open/close during bleeding. There is a special tool for this, but it worked fine for me doing it this way. Don't buy one of those offset bleeder wrenches you see at the store. They don't work on the recessed bleeders on the rear wheel cylinders.
For the rears, I used a deep well 8mm socket to loosen the bleeders. I then removed the socket and ran aquarium tubing through the socket using vise grips to open/close during bleeding. There is a special tool for this, but it worked fine for me doing it this way. Don't buy one of those offset bleeder wrenches you see at the store. They don't work on the recessed bleeders on the rear wheel cylinders.
well i got the driver side line replaced, the passenger side is another story 
. I managed to break loose the passenger side line even after i dam near rounded off the hard line fitting. The passenger side bleeder screw is too far stripped for me to attempt to remove it with the caliper installed so that was my stopping point for the day. Im just going to have to remove the passanger side caliper and see where it goes from there.
. I managed to break loose the passenger side line even after i dam near rounded off the hard line fitting. The passenger side bleeder screw is too far stripped for me to attempt to remove it with the caliper installed so that was my stopping point for the day. Im just going to have to remove the passanger side caliper and see where it goes from there.New calipers were $9.99 at advance 3 years ago when I put them on the white T. I won't mess with a stuck bleeder for that price,plus you get new o rings that make it fit nice and tight with no rattles over bumps. happy new year Santana!:smile:
I'm actually in the process of doing the same exact thing. I got the set of 3 standard flare nut wrenches from Autozone for like $15. they seem to work okay. I did destroy the old flare nut on the passenger side and had to get a new fitting which of course was a pain since I had to cut and re-flare the hardline. Anyway it's all coming together today. Good luck.
I just got done with the.fronts on mine. I went ahead and .replaced both calipers since they were only $12 each. Looking at the rear hose and the flare nut think I'm going to save that for another day in fear of stripping it but I'm still going to bleed them. I'll see if the braking has improved by just changing out the front lines, calipers and bleeding the system. I did notice while bleeding that the reservoir would burp everytime we would apply the brake, is this normal? I've seen.that before.
ok well something must be wrong here. I blead all four corners, checked for leaks and put everything back together and still the brakes are no better. Does it have something to do with the "burbing" at the reservoir? Like i said earlier everytime my friend press down on the brake fluid comes up to the reservoir at the front port, is this normal?
You still have the powermaster? If so the accum ball maybe leaking into the brake fluid.
Yea it was shooting out the front port. The car already came with the vacuum brake set up and this issue just started. I'm thinking the MC has some internal problems and not allowing all the pressure to go to the brakes but instead allowing most of it to leak back into the reservoir.
Silver Fox
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
Subscribed. Mine is shooting out the rear port and my brakes aren't feeling to firm either.
Rob
