Changing Timing Chain ?

[GN ERGY]

On a 60K mile motor, what is everything I need to buy to change timing chain and gears. What chain and gears, gaskets, front seal and special tools needed. I also bought a rear main seal and I thought I read somewhere to do the front cover first and then the oil pan. Never did this before on a Buick V 6 Any suggestions and tips appreciated.
Thanks,
Tarey D.

 

[turbo39151]

do it all at once! You'll thank me later

Drop the oil pan, clean the pick-up. Change the rear main. While you're doing that pull the front cover and do the chain and front seal.

Of course you'll need a rear main seal, front seal, front cover gasket, oil pan gasket, timing chain assembly (i use the double roller).

Might be a good idea to have a cam position sensor on hand just in case. (one of the "ears" broke off mine and I was down a few additional days. Also, a good idea to check your engine mounts (about $20 for the pair at NAPA -stock rubber)

Buy lots of rags and cleaner and clean it all up while you're down there. It's easier to keep clean when you do it all at one time and much easier to work on if you need to get down there again.

Oh yeah and make sure you have the large socket and breaker bar to break the harmonic balancer loose.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

A couple suggestions...

"I also bought a rear main seal and I thought I read somewhere to do the front cover first and then the oil pan".
The pan bolts to the ft cover, so pan comes down first, and goes back after the cover is on. Otherwise, U can have pan gasket problems when putting the ft cover back on.
2 other items:
1. Double roller chains can be a problem with the chain tensioner. Some/not all, eat the fiber block up, and you find it clogging the oil pump pickup...
2. Do not use rags to clean engine parts. You can create alot of lint doing so. Stuff that will clog the oil pump screen. Solvent, and compressed air, is the correct method. BTDT, and have a t-shirt to prove it!!

 

[chadly]

Do the front cover first, but loosen and let the pan hang low. This way if any crude gets in the pan while doing the front cover you’ll be taking it off soon anyway. I just went through this and what really helped me was the step by step info given on Turbo Regal Web Site Both procedures are there. They literally will tell you what to buy, to which bolt to remove next. You can also find the steps on how to reset you cam and crank sensor there.

Good luck and have fun.
Chad

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"This way if any crude gets in the pan while doing the front cover you’ll be taking it off soon anyway".
I guess if the pan is already off, there won't be any "crude" getting in it.....

 

[chadly]

What I was saying is that I left the pan on. Just loosened it and let it hang. I replaced the timing chain and then the rear main. This project took me close to two weeks to complete. An hour here and there is all I got. I did not want the pan off the whole period of time and open for contaminants. If you stuff the front of the pan with clean rags you won’t get anything in the pan anyway.

 

[turbo39151]

I think the idea of loosening the pan, while it has merit is more of a PITA than just removing it. I tried it that way and everything worked but then when I wanted to recheck something the oil pan gasket got pinched and was torn and had to be replaced.

Ideally, you won't have "linty" rags... I never had any issue.

You don't use the tensioner with a double roller. (otherwise it will eat it)

The best advise I can give is to print out all of the how to guides, make sure that you have all of the proper tools for the job BEFORE you start, and make sure you have all the parts, gasket and all BEFORE you start the job.

None of these should have very long and I'd recommend setting aside one day (Saturday is ideal- just in case you discover that you need something, you can get to the store) and do it all at once. Ideally, you'll have an extra set of hands to help and some beer in the fridge to help with those moments.

Good Luck.

 

[GN ERGY]

I have HR motor mts.
What brand of timing chain.
If I don't mess with the cam sensor will I have to reset it, or it gets out of time when you move the crank and cam to align them with the new chain.
What size nut on harmonic balancer, do I need a balancer puller?
Tarey D.

 

[turbo39151]

Any double roller is fine I suppose. Cloyes is pretty popular.

The cam sensor will need to pulled. When you put it back, you want to make sure it's right. Do yourself a favor and egt the cam sensor tool. Makes things super easy to do.

You won't need to mess with the crank sensor.

You'll need a 28mm socket, a small (3" -6" extension) and a good sized breaker bar. (the bigger, the more leverage you'll have...)

You don't need a puller for the balancer

 

[whitehot1]

I have always had to use a puller to get the balancer off, but maybe you won't need it? but if you do most of the auto parts stores will have a loaner/ rent a tool that you just give a deposit for the tool and you get your money back when you return it.

You will need a torque wrench for when you put the rear main cap back on it gets torqued to 100 ft lbs. and also the balancer bolt gets torqued to 219 ft lbs.

also you will need an inch lb torque wrench for the front cover,oil pan.