changing valve springs on the car?
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salvageV6
Daily Driver
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Yes you can do the springs in the car.
Requires a good valve spring tool like the one Kirban sells or some creative work on a Chevy one.
New valve springs and felpro viton valve seals work well.
I use the Comp. Cams 980's without the factory cup.
Do a search on the topic and there are tons of threads with helpful tips.
Valve cover gaskets are needed also.
Cover the oil holes with rags so you don't lose any keepers.
Clean out the pushrods and reuse them in the same holes.
A stick with a magnet is good to keep the retainers and keepers from getting lost and so you are able to retrieve them.
Valve holding air compressor tool from Pep Boys keeps them in place without the spring and retainers on.
Some use rope in the spark plug hole. I didn't on 2 cars.
Requires a good valve spring tool like the one Kirban sells or some creative work on a Chevy one.
New valve springs and felpro viton valve seals work well.
I use the Comp. Cams 980's without the factory cup.
Do a search on the topic and there are tons of threads with helpful tips.
Valve cover gaskets are needed also.
Cover the oil holes with rags so you don't lose any keepers.
Clean out the pushrods and reuse them in the same holes.
A stick with a magnet is good to keep the retainers and keepers from getting lost and so you are able to retrieve them.
Valve holding air compressor tool from Pep Boys keeps them in place without the spring and retainers on.
Some use rope in the spark plug hole. I didn't on 2 cars.
No need to pull the heads unless you want to run the risk of "new headaches". Hopefull this will be helpful....
Valve spring replacement
Valve spring replacement
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
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- 9,478
I think there is some instructions on gnttype.org.
But, here is some pointers i'll throw at ya.
If you have a compression tester it should have a quick disconnect on the hose that will hook up to a air comp hose and that will psi the cyl and hold the valves up. If not JEGS has a fitting that screws in to the cyl and you can hook up a air hose (same principle).
That will take care of holding up the valves while replacing the springs.
Start with the passenger side valve cover it is the most aggravating, the heat sheild will have to be taken loose a moved over a little (2-3 screws 1 underneath you can reach under and get it).
You will see a rocker shaft that all rockers ride on. There are nylon/plastic button head tabs that keeps the rocker arms over the valves on the shaft. I replaced them since I was in there, had to get them from a dealer (gm # 1254371).
Once you take the shaft off..just a few bolts holding the shaft down, now all the valves are up and ready.
Get a over head valve spring compressor (looks kinda like a gear puller) get the smallest one you can, I had to modify mine because it hit the a/c box on the rear pass side valve(s). I had the bigger version have noticed that other types are smaller ...just shop around and look.
Get new valve seals since you can slide off the old ones and slide on new while in there. Only the intake valves have seals, don't even try putting the exh on because the valve guides will not allow the seals to be in proper position. I ordered my seals from Postons they have the polyacr type that are better than the exact stock replacement and they have a wider metal band that raps around it vs. the puny little wire that alot have...holds better.
I replaced the locks but, not the retainers was just tight for funds at the time probably should replace the retainers.
Advanced auto's valve locks are actually Speed Pro and are hardened.
Get a magnetic pick tool for removing and installing the locks once the springs are compressed.
Watch the valve seals when backing off the compressor on the new spring the seals could walk up, you can get a real skinny flat head and go between the coils and push it back down easily.
By VERY careful with the pushrods thay are slippery and can fall down in the motor(bad ju ju) use the magnetic tool here also. I had acces to a parts washer and flushed the hollow centers out just to be sure there was no funk blocking mine up. Though mine were pretty clean. A few cans of brake cleaner would do fine if you do not have a parts washer should be able to see through them (hold em up to a light source).
Can replace the valve cover gaskets if needed use the felpro rubber blend they require no sealant and have stops to keep from overtightening advanced auto has em.
A few pointers to help out.
But, here is some pointers i'll throw at ya.
If you have a compression tester it should have a quick disconnect on the hose that will hook up to a air comp hose and that will psi the cyl and hold the valves up. If not JEGS has a fitting that screws in to the cyl and you can hook up a air hose (same principle).
That will take care of holding up the valves while replacing the springs.
Start with the passenger side valve cover it is the most aggravating, the heat sheild will have to be taken loose a moved over a little (2-3 screws 1 underneath you can reach under and get it).
You will see a rocker shaft that all rockers ride on. There are nylon/plastic button head tabs that keeps the rocker arms over the valves on the shaft. I replaced them since I was in there, had to get them from a dealer (gm # 1254371).
Once you take the shaft off..just a few bolts holding the shaft down, now all the valves are up and ready.
Get a over head valve spring compressor (looks kinda like a gear puller) get the smallest one you can, I had to modify mine because it hit the a/c box on the rear pass side valve(s). I had the bigger version have noticed that other types are smaller ...just shop around and look.
Get new valve seals since you can slide off the old ones and slide on new while in there. Only the intake valves have seals, don't even try putting the exh on because the valve guides will not allow the seals to be in proper position. I ordered my seals from Postons they have the polyacr type that are better than the exact stock replacement and they have a wider metal band that raps around it vs. the puny little wire that alot have...holds better.
I replaced the locks but, not the retainers was just tight for funds at the time probably should replace the retainers.
Advanced auto's valve locks are actually Speed Pro and are hardened.
Get a magnetic pick tool for removing and installing the locks once the springs are compressed.
Watch the valve seals when backing off the compressor on the new spring the seals could walk up, you can get a real skinny flat head and go between the coils and push it back down easily.
By VERY careful with the pushrods thay are slippery and can fall down in the motor(bad ju ju) use the magnetic tool here also. I had acces to a parts washer and flushed the hollow centers out just to be sure there was no funk blocking mine up. Though mine were pretty clean. A few cans of brake cleaner would do fine if you do not have a parts washer should be able to see through them (hold em up to a light source).
Can replace the valve cover gaskets if needed use the felpro rubber blend they require no sealant and have stops to keep from overtightening advanced auto has em.
A few pointers to help out.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 9,208
Make sure you have extra keepers so when they bounce off the rag and fall somewhere in the frame, you do not have to spend an hour trying to find it.
I'm about to be doing the same thing..
First time for me on this car, I've done sbc in my 79 z28 before, angle port heads, headers and HD roller springs make that a PITA. Everything turbo nasty said sounds about right along the lines. I didn't know Advanced had good hardened locks though, what about the plastic tabs, GM the only place to get them?
salvageV6: WTF? Could you explain this one?
"Some use rope in the spark plug hole."
Also, I would recomend a decent sized air compressor, not some tiny one, something with a 20-30 gal tank would be good. The last thing you want while a spring is off is to loose pressure. You will have some leaking around the rings etc, so the compressor will have to keep up, some of those really small ones might not.
First time for me on this car, I've done sbc in my 79 z28 before, angle port heads, headers and HD roller springs make that a PITA. Everything turbo nasty said sounds about right along the lines. I didn't know Advanced had good hardened locks though, what about the plastic tabs, GM the only place to get them?
salvageV6: WTF? Could you explain this one?
"Some use rope in the spark plug hole."
Also, I would recomend a decent sized air compressor, not some tiny one, something with a 20-30 gal tank would be good. The last thing you want while a spring is off is to loose pressure. You will have some leaking around the rings etc, so the compressor will have to keep up, some of those really small ones might not.
Already have the springs, retainers, and keepers. All Comp stuff. I have the compressor and the air hose to pressurize the cylinder. I wanted to make sure I had everything in line before I started so I didn't have an oops, and to make sure the valve spring compressor would fit back by the firewall.
Would it also be worthwhile to turn over the engine by hand to top out the piston on each cylinder in case I would lose pressure. This should prevent the valve from falling past the point of retrieval? Right? Just a safety precaution.
Thanks for the help
Any other helpful tips still welcome
Would it also be worthwhile to turn over the engine by hand to top out the piston on each cylinder in case I would lose pressure. This should prevent the valve from falling past the point of retrieval? Right? Just a safety precaution.
Thanks for the help
Any other helpful tips still welcome
Rope
I kinda thought that, but wondering how that and the air adapter would fit, or is this to be done as an alternative?
I would still prefer the air. BTW, I made my own adapter, I think I got the main part at Napa or somewhere like that, it's an adapter that will thread into the plug threads and is NPT on the otherside, so I used standard NPT parts and air connect nipple.
On the camaro I had to use an elbo to get it in a lot of the plug holes. I did it that way a couple times, but from now on I'll prob just pull the heads.
I kinda thought that, but wondering how that and the air adapter would fit, or is this to be done as an alternative?
I would still prefer the air. BTW, I made my own adapter, I think I got the main part at Napa or somewhere like that, it's an adapter that will thread into the plug threads and is NPT on the otherside, so I used standard NPT parts and air connect nipple.
On the camaro I had to use an elbo to get it in a lot of the plug holes. I did it that way a couple times, but from now on I'll prob just pull the heads.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 20,939
Rope? It's an alternative to air.
Some fear power failures along with leaky hoses or lines.
If someone unplugs the air line by mistake you could have a problem.
If you don't have a leak in the lines a power failure or the cord out of the socket on the air compressor won't hurt you probably for half an hour at least, mine didn't cycle much when doing them.
The pep boys air fitting is about 10" long and rubber hose, easy to thread in and out of the spark plug holes, well relatively easy anyway.
Didn't replace the plastic thingies but I did buy a set of turbobuicks.com rocker arms that had them already new in there.
Gotta put them on someday....
Some fear power failures along with leaky hoses or lines.
If someone unplugs the air line by mistake you could have a problem.
If you don't have a leak in the lines a power failure or the cord out of the socket on the air compressor won't hurt you probably for half an hour at least, mine didn't cycle much when doing them.
The pep boys air fitting is about 10" long and rubber hose, easy to thread in and out of the spark plug holes, well relatively easy anyway.
Didn't replace the plastic thingies but I did buy a set of turbobuicks.com rocker arms that had them already new in there.
Gotta put them on someday....
Air hose
Well, with a big enough air tank, 20-30gal you should be ok even in power failure, it would give you enough time to get the spring back on or at least secure the valve stem so it won't fall all the way in.
I wouldn't mind having a hose like you say pep boys sells, but the prob is there is no pep boys here, the zone or advanced don't sell one I guess..
*edit*
FYI, I actually just found the original package I got from Napa in the bottom of my tool box, it came with two sizes, I think the P/N was 901 air hold set or something. This one is about 2" long and threads into the plug hole and has I believe 3/8" NPT female on the other end, you can screw a quick connect nipple right into it.
In case anyone's in my situation and don't have pepboys, try napa.
Well, with a big enough air tank, 20-30gal you should be ok even in power failure, it would give you enough time to get the spring back on or at least secure the valve stem so it won't fall all the way in.
I wouldn't mind having a hose like you say pep boys sells, but the prob is there is no pep boys here, the zone or advanced don't sell one I guess..
*edit*
FYI, I actually just found the original package I got from Napa in the bottom of my tool box, it came with two sizes, I think the P/N was 901 air hold set or something. This one is about 2" long and threads into the plug hole and has I believe 3/8" NPT female on the other end, you can screw a quick connect nipple right into it.
In case anyone's in my situation and don't have pepboys, try napa.
Russ Merritt
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2002
- Messages
- 2,715
Originally posted by Nick Micale
Make sure you have extra keepers so when they bounce off the rag and fall somewhere in the frame, you do not have to spend an hour trying to find it.
GREAT CALL!
All this time I thought I was the only clumsy one! Big air compressor isn't necessary...all you have to do is make sure each piston is at absolute TDC before applying air to that piston...that way if you lose pressure or power the valve will only drop about a 1/4 inch...set the piston at TDC...keep an eye on the alt pulley when you apply the air...if it spins the piston just shot down to the bottom of the bore and you need to start over...if it doesn't move you are good to go...I use a wood dowel in the spark plug hole to determine when the piston is at TDC...just a matter of feel...you'll get it after the first one...
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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- Dec 9, 2002
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- 16,756
Turbo Nasty, do you happen to have the part #s for the valve locks and Felpro gaskets?
thanks
edit
OK, I looked at the Federal Mogal site and got these #s
Felpro gasket VS50156T
Sealed Power valve keeper/lock VK115 VK115R (hard)
thanks
edit
OK, I looked at the Federal Mogal site and got these #s
Felpro gasket VS50156T
Sealed Power valve keeper/lock VK115 VK115R (hard)
