Changing Valve Springs.....what parts to get?

[N2ORBT]

Ok, did some searching and seems like the comp 980's with no cup is the way to go on a stock or mild motor. What about the seals, retainers, etc. For those who did the swap, can refer the part numbers for the supporting parts? Im running all stock from the factory valvetrain with 60K original miles.

 

[87GN_70GS]

Re-use all the other hard parts, replace seals, available at your local parts store. Intake only, exhaust wont accept a seal if its all stock.

 

[UNGN]

#1 thing to get is a "magnet on a stick"

This will keep the keepers from getting away and works like an extra hand. Compress the spring and the magnet yoinks out the keepers.

Do the passenger side Rear springs first. These are the harderest and once you get those, its all downhill from there.

I know you didn't mention it, but resist the urge to do the timing chain at the same time.

 

[87geeinn]

Just my opinion, but I wouldn't even bother. I went through the headache of changing my valve springs (on the car) on a very low mileage stock motor and I saw virtually no difference in performance. Save yourself the trouble and leave it alone.

 

[krazy86t]

if you have leaky valve cover gaskets that need replacing, the valve spring change is only another hour or so with the right tools. #6 on passenger side is a bastard, but there is a slick way to make it super easy with a tool i learned of from Jason at RJC - get an old or new rocker and grind a notch in the tip. you want clearance to extract the locks with a magnet when the rocker pushes down on the valve spring. weld a sacrificial 3/8 drive socket to the top of the push rod end of the rocker. see this post for more info

this post is very useful with some very good how-to advice.

 

[twodafloor]

BE SURE TO ROTATE PISTON TO TOP> Don't ask me how I know.