What turbo should I get?

[SCOOBY DOO]

What I did when I first got my car was to remove the 4 nuts at the back of the cat...pound the honey come out with a big punch and hammer...and then used the shop vac to remove the chunks of honeycomb. Test pipe isn't needed. One of the neighbours asked me what I was doing. Told him I was vacuuming my exhaust. Gave me a blank stare and walked away.

 

[Gknational]

What I did when I first got my car was to remove the 4 nuts at the back of the cat...pound the honey come out with a big punch and hammer...and then used the shop vac to remove the chunks of honeycomb. Test pipe isn't needed. One of the neighbours asked me what I was doing. Told him I was vacuuming my exhaust. Gave me a blank stare and walked away.

Lol, can’t do that on cars now in days, it would probably make the car explode lol. Jk

 

[XracerX]

Hi new guy! I was in a band in Medina ages ago. I'm in Rochester BTW .

I was also in your shoes a very long time ago. I was lucky enough to have really good turbo Buick friends in the 1990's all of which are still on here for advice and that made all the power adding bolt on's. I have gotten well over 400hp out of a stock turbo at 23psi and 34* timing. The stock turbo loves timing but 34 degrees was with VP C-16 race gas. On the street I ran the stock turbo at 23psi and 22* timing with methanol injection. I'm running a TA49 with 60's now.

The "Most Important MOD" for YOU right now is A 3" downpipe, A cutout pipe(testpipe with dump in case you race) and a 3" CAT back exhaust system. The exhaust swap is a seat of the pants mod and needed to reduce back pressure to a minimum. Without the complete 3" exhaust your engine is bottled up and will never make more power. Don't gut the CAT. I did and it works but ruins it if you need it to pass inspection or return to stock..

With methanol injection you can safely run up to 23psi max on the stock turbo, If tuned correctly. Do the math 18 to 23psi - that's a big power increase.
Next would be the Intercooler. The stock intercooler 2" inlet is a bottle neck also. You don't need to get crazy with that so just a 2.5" neck modded stocker will work, but that's up to you. That's what I used up until recently. I still have mine if you wanna try it out some day.

Anyway there's a lot of little things you can do to increase power and reliability, Exhaust being most important now.
The tranny is a must if you want to make 400hp so good on you there. I have no idea who your tranny guy is but mine was done correctly by RED from Lewiston NY back around 2000.

BTW, The oil you may be seeing out your exhaust and inside the inlet bell could be from the stock turbo inlet bell being connected to the passenger valve cover by way of a tube. I don't know if you still have that hooked up.... but pictures would help.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Hi Joe!

 

[Gknational]

Hi new guy! I was in a band in Medina ages ago. I'm in Rochester BTW .

I was also in your shoes a very long time ago. I was lucky enough to have really good turbo Buick friends in the 1990's all of which are still on here for advice and that made all the power adding bolt on's. I have gotten well over 400hp out of a stock turbo at 23psi and 34* timing. The stock turbo loves timing but 34 degrees was with VP C-16 race gas. On the street I ran the stock turbo at 23psi and 22* timing with methanol injection. I'm running a TA49 with 60's now.

The "Most Important MOD" for YOU right now is A 3" downpipe, A cutout pipe(testpipe with dump in case you race) and a 3" CAT back exhaust system. The exhaust swap is a seat of the pants mod and needed to reduce back pressure to a minimum. Without the complete 3" exhaust your engine is bottled up and will never make more power. Don't gut the CAT. I did and it works but ruins it if you need it to pass inspection or return to stock..

With methanol injection you can safely run up to 23psi max on the stock turbo, If tuned correctly. Do the math 18 to 23psi - that's a big power increase.
Next would be the Intercooler. The stock intercooler 2" inlet is a bottle neck also. You don't need to get crazy with that so just a 2.5" neck modded stocker will work, but that's up to you. That's what I used up until recently. I still have mine if you wanna try it out some day.

Anyway there's a lot of little things you can do to increase power and reliability, Exhaust being most important now.
The tranny is a must if you want to make 400hp so good on you there. I have no idea who your tranny guy is but mine was done correctly by RED from Lewiston NY back around 2000.

BTW, The oil you may be seeing out your exhaust and inside the inlet bell could be from the stock turbo inlet bell being connected to the passenger valve cover by way of a tube. I don't know if you still have that hooked up.... but pictures would help.

Ok I’m hunting down a new down pipe for my next mod I’m going to get my trans done in the spring and I want to get a ptc 2800-3000 stall in it too. Where did you get a re neck for the stock intercooler is this needed on a stock turbo

 

[Grumpy]

Ok lots of good info here BUT at this rate you need a BIG watering can for that $$$$$$ tree ! This car is a very simple car to mod but a $100 here $800 there it adds up quick.

 

[Grumpy]

I'm in Rochester .

I got a GNX out of there. #541. A used car dealer bought it new.

 

[Gknational]

I got a GNX out of there. #541. A used car dealer bought it new.

I

Ok lots of good info here BUT at this rate you need a BIG watering can for that $$$$$$ tree ! This car is a very simple car to mod but a $100 here $800 there it adds up quick.

i know dude but I got this thing cheap super cheap for 32,000 miles

 

[dynoman]

I got a GNX out of there. #541. A used car dealer bought it new.

With 2 GM plants & over 10,000 employees there were a lot of Turbo Buicks purchased in the area. I sold 5 with just a ride in mine !! Employee discount!!

 

[Gknational]

Hi new guy! I was in a band in Medina ages ago. I'm in Rochester BTW .

I was also in your shoes a very long time ago. I was lucky enough to have really good turbo Buick friends in the 1990's all of which are still on here for advice and that made all the power adding bolt on's. I have gotten well over 400hp out of a stock turbo at 23psi and 34* timing. The stock turbo loves timing but 34 degrees was with VP C-16 race gas. On the street I ran the stock turbo at 23psi and 22* timing with methanol injection. I'm running a TA49 with 60's now.

The "Most Important MOD" for YOU right now is A 3" downpipe, A cutout pipe(testpipe with dump in case you race) and a 3" CAT back exhaust system. The exhaust swap is a seat of the pants mod and needed to reduce back pressure to a minimum. Without the complete 3" exhaust your engine is bottled up and will never make more power. Don't gut the CAT. I did and it works but ruins it if you need it to pass inspection or return to stock..

With methanol injection you can safely run up to 23psi max on the stock turbo, If tuned correctly. Do the math 18 to 23psi - that's a big power increase.
Next would be the Intercooler. The stock intercooler 2" inlet is a bottle neck also. You don't need to get crazy with that so just a 2.5" neck modded stocker will work, but that's up to you. That's what I used up until recently. I still have mine if you wanna try it out some day.

Anyway there's a lot of little things you can do to increase power and reliability, Exhaust being most important now.
The tranny is a must if you want to make 400hp so good on you there. I have no idea who your tranny guy is but mine was done correctly by RED from Lewiston NY back around 2000.

BTW, The oil you may be seeing out your exhaust and inside the inlet bell could be from the stock turbo inlet bell being connected to the passenger valve cover by way of a tube. I don't know if you still have that hooked up.... but pictures would help.

Also yes I did have that hooked up lol I’m gonna disconnect that, I’m gonna order the kit and wash out my intercooler if that’s possible.

 

[hensleyt]

Ok I’m hunting down a new down pipe for my next mod I’m going to get my trans done in the spring and I want to get a ptc 2800-3000 stall in it too. Where did you get a re neck for the stock intercooler is this needed on a stock turbo

Nick at Arizona GN has a nice product

 

[XracerX]

Ok I’m hunting down a new down pipe for my next mod I’m going to get my trans done in the spring and I want to get a ptc 2800-3000 stall in it too. Where did you get a re neck for the stock intercooler is this needed on a stock turbo

They don't sell the duttweiler necks anymore that I know of to do the mod but as stated Arizona GN makes their own neck modded IC for $275 plus you need to send them your core.
it would help because the turbo is working harder pushing 1-2 lbs more to make the set PSI you see, which means more heat out of the turbo also.
example; turbo set to make 18psi on your gauge so it means the turbo is pushing out 20 to make 18psi because of the crappy inlet neck and reduced flow. The reality is about 1.5 psi more that you would see after the neck mod of cooler turbo air.

If you still had it hooked up then That hose from the valve cover to the turbo inlet bell is your oil issue. You can clean out the intercooler with denatured alcohol. OR you can take it to a radiator shop and they will chemically clean it for like $20 and if you want you can also have it pressure tested for a small fee extra. I can assure you its real dirty with dry and scammer oil.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Ok lots of good info here BUT at this rate you need a BIG watering can for that $$$$$$ tree ! This car is a very simple car to mod but a $100 here $800 there it adds up quick.

Yup
Even when you give out the cheatsheat the test seems hard these days

 

[Gknational]

They don't sell the duttweiler necks anymore that I know of to do the mod but as stated Arizona GN makes their own neck modded IC for $275 plus you need to send them your core.
it would help because the turbo is working harder pushing 1-2 lbs more to make the set PSI you see, which means more heat out of the turbo also.
example; turbo set to make 18psi on your gauge so it means the turbo is pushing out 20 to make 18psi because of the crappy inlet neck and reduced flow. The reality is about 1.5 psi more that you would see after the neck mod of cooler turbo air.

If you still had it hooked up then That hose from the valve cover to the turbo inlet bell is your oil issue. You can clean out the intercooler with denatured alcohol. OR you can take it to a radiator shop and they will chemically clean it for like $20 and if you want you can also have it pressure tested for a small fee extra. I can assure you its real dirty with dry and scammer oil.

Yeah your on to something there, I’ll probably go see where I can find by me and just get it tested. That would for sure help with peace of mind.

 

[TTA308]

I’ll probably go see where I can find by me and just get it tested

Nope, remember the learning curve that was mentioned? No time like the present...

 

[XracerX]

Yeah your on to something there, I’ll probably go see where I can find by me and just get it tested. That would for sure help with peace of mind.

I wouldn't waste my time having it pressure tested. Its only got 32K on it. I was merely suggesting the radiator shop to chemically clean it considering that denatured alcohol is like $13 a gallon. For an extra $7 you don't have to deal with it or the smell.
The only reason I would ever have it tested is if you can visually see dents or scrapes in or around the cooling rows.

What does the car have now for an exhaust system after the CAT? All stock? The muffler may have been replaced. You gotta look.
There's a reason I ask, and that's because a 3" downpipe alone won't cut it. And it seems you don't wanna cut corners so you have many choices. Yes, you can get a 2.5" mild steel exhaust that will eventually rust but if your gonna do it then do it once and get a stainless 3".
As mentioned nothing is cheap anymore. But at least if steered in the right direction you won't waste your money on Stuff you don't need just yet.

***Right now you don't need a new turbo.***
***For now at minimum get a Terry Houston Style(Eliminates the Elbow) 3" downpipe and test pipe with dump to get rid of the CAT***
*** I would hold off on that tranny rebuild if you can. I would replace the convertor ONLY for now. AND get the tranny fluid flushed and replaced. Maybe put in a mild shift kit***
Anyone else have any thoughts on the above?

I've never heard of Tonawanda transmission. Its not even on google. How did you hook up with this guy? Was he suggested by someone on here? Did your tranny guy say he would put in a hardened spline pump stator and hardened drum as part of the rebuild? And what kit was he gonna use? I can't find any info on this place and that makes it shady. A rebuild isn't cheap so it needs to be done right .

There's only one guy around here I would ever let touch my car and that is Phil Bassage who owns Master Tech Auto in Canandaigua NY 585-394-7333. He's been working on our cars since they came out and he also races them. He has a huge list of Turbo Buick clients and you need to book in advance like a month or 2. Phil does it all including tranny rebuilds and he does it right. He is PDZZ on here.

You need to post pics of your engine, etc.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Ok lots of good info here BUT at this rate you need a BIG watering can for that $$$$$$ tree ! This car is a very simple car to mod but a $100 here $800 there it adds up quick.

I'm the last of Grumpy's Keep It Simple Stupid crew that drag the most from the least. Think I'm gonna sit on the side lines and watch from here on in like you do

 

[Gknational]

I wouldn't waste my time having it pressure tested. Its only got 32K on it. I was merely suggesting the radiator shop to chemically clean it considering that denatured alcohol is like $13 a gallon. For an extra $7 you don't have to deal with it or the smell.
The only reason I would ever have it tested is if you can visually see dents or scrapes in or around the cooling rows.

What does the car have now for an exhaust system after the CAT? All stock? The muffler may have been replaced. You gotta look.
There's a reason I ask, and that's because a 3" downpipe alone won't cut it. And it seems you don't wanna cut corners so you have many choices. Yes, you can get a 2.5" mild steel exhaust that will eventually rust but if your gonna do it then do it once and get a stainless 3".
As mentioned nothing is cheap anymore. But at least if steered in the right direction you won't waste your money on Stuff you don't need just yet.

***Right now you don't need a new turbo.***
***For now at minimum get a Terry Houston Style(Eliminates the Elbow) 3" downpipe and test pipe with dump to get rid of the CAT***
*** I would hold off on that tranny rebuild if you can. I would replace the convertor ONLY for now. AND get the tranny fluid flushed and replaced. Maybe put in a mild shift kit***
Anyone else have any thoughts on the above?

I've never heard of Tonawanda transmission. Its not even on google. How did you hook up with this guy? Was he suggested by someone on here? Did your tranny guy say he would put in a hardened spline pump stator and hardened drum as part of the rebuild? And what kit was he gonna use? I can't find any info on this place and that makes it shady. A rebuild isn't cheap so it needs to be done right .

There's only one guy around here I would ever let touch my car and that is Phil Bassage who owns Master Tech Auto in Canandaigua NY 585-394-7333. He's been working on our cars since they came out and he also races them. He has a huge list of Turbo Buick clients and you need to book in advance like a month or 2. Phil does it all including tranny rebuilds and he does it right. He is PDZZ on here.

You need to post pics of your engine, etc.

Yeah I’ve known the guy for many years it does come up on google so I don’t know what’s up with that but maybe the name or something is slightly different. He’s really good and has Owned 3/4 of these, he knows his way around a tranny and I’ve known him forever. Also I do have a shift kit in it but the disks in the transmission are shot, the car sat for over 15-20 years so once I got it pushing the power it should she just giving up.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Where did you get a re neck for the stock intercooler is this needed on a stock turbo

One problem with using a 30+ y/o cooler assy is the efficiency has probably taken a hit... Maybe a significant hit. Heat cycles, vibration, environment, all affect the integrity of the fin to tube connection. Accumulated dirt inside doesn't help.
AIRC, when new, the units were only about 58% efficient.
I'm wondering if a vertical flow unit would be more efficient.
Once an old unit is "renovated", cut, welded, and properly cleaned, just how much is invested vs a new core? Don't know.
Back under my rock.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

One problem with using a 30+ y/o cooler assy is the efficiency has probably taken a hit... Maybe a significant hit. Heat cycles, vibration, environment, all affect the integrity of the fin to tube connection. Accumulated dirt inside doesn't help.
AIRC, when new, the units were only about 58% efficient.
I'm wondering if a vertical flow unit would be more efficient.
Once an old unit is "renovated", cut, welded, and properly cleaned, just how much is invested vs a new core? Don't know.
Back under my rock.

Chuck, if memory serves I THINK Bison was working on a vertical flow a few years back.