charging problem

[wbzautocustomiz]

87 t-type charging problem had alt checked out ok still got new one anyway, installed fired up car charging at batt and alt at about 14.4-14.6 shut it down started back up later to recheck and only readin about 11.5-11.6 checked out basics batt & alt volt, connection, etc nothing out of the norm I'm assuming that whatever excites the alt is not working right any help?

 

[turbojd]

Make sure your volt light is "on" with the key turned forward, if it's not lit the car will not charge.

 

[bison]

You most likely have an intermittent open circuit on the alt 12v alt lead. Probably at the cluster connector. The connector pins can become oxidized enough over time to cause this. What i do is pull the cluster out and lightly scrape the pins so i see fresh brass showing then push it back in and check for key on engine off voltage light on. If the cluster is loose it can cause this problem also

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

Could be volt lite cluster issue since it is t-top car and we know how hard it is to keep water out so clean up of cluster pins might help will check out and report back since now that I think about it this has happened once a while but "corrected itself" PS car has been sitting since May,2009

 

[bison]

Could be volt lite cluster issue since it is t-top car and we know how hard it is to keep water out so clean up of cluster pins might help will check out and report back since now that I think about it this has happened once a while but "corrected itself" PS car has been sitting since May,2009

It will eventually uncorrect itself and you will find yourself stuck in the middle of nowhere when you least expect it

 

[Blown&Injected]

Make sure your volt light is "on" with the key turned forward, if it's not lit the car will not charge.

agreed - and check it often because of the cluster contact issue - I made a jumper wire for the volt light because the printed circuit was worn where the contacts make contact

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

Definetly wont rely on "correcting itself" I just added that as my memory was working and the volt lite will come on with key cycle at first then the next turn of key no volt lite and so on, its definitly a chase to find problem but thanks fellas and anyone with a idea please continue to chime in I will be at it again after work today so if anybody has any ideas load me up since at this point I want it FIXED BAD! If not off to the shop and we all know how it goes with these cars nobody know jack.

 

[Blown&Injected]

I'm thinking it is over 92.4% likely it is contact issue in the dash with that volt light

 

[turbojd]

You can always bypass the dash cluster, if thats your issue, with Casper Electronics "Field fix kit" or make your own jumper wire.

 

[wbzautocustomiz]

now how about this no volt lite with key at all but still charging? And anyone have more info on caspers "field fix kit" or how to jumper? any help is appreciated

 

[turbojd]

Heres the "field fix kit" CEI - Casper's Electronics, Inc.

 

[Turbo Loyd]

Found myself chasing down an intermittent alternator exciter wire circuit for most of a summer a few years ago, with all sorts of problems cropping up due to low voltage in my turbo Regal. Every time I checked that circuit it tested fine, but then give me fits the next time out with the car.

A way to test would be to get an exciter wire pigtail for the CS144, soldier in a 44 Ohm resistor and use alligator clip to temporarily clip to the post on the back of the alternator. Without the resistor you will be putting too much voltage to the exciter circuit, and overcharging the battery or worse yet burn out the alternator. The exciter circuit should only be energized when the key is on, so this is only a temporary way to test.

It eventually stopped working totally. Casper's field fix was the ticket and had no problems since. John's kit takes the power for the exciter circuit from the waste gate solenoid.

 

[bison]

now how about this no volt lite with key at all but still charging? And anyone have more info on caspers "field fix kit" or how to jumper? any help is appreciated

Not unless the exciter wire is shorted to 12v before the bulb or it has been modified and is getting 12v from somewhere else.