Chasing my tail...new to turbo buick scene problems

[GNVenom]

You mentioned that you have 55lb. injectors. These are generally low impedance injectors, and will overheat stock injector drivers. When overheated, the drivers go into thermal overload, and shut down. This might be causing your trouble.

Check to see if your original ECM has been modified for low impedance drivers.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

You mentioned that you have 55lb. injectors. These are generally low impedance injectors, and will overheat stock injector drivers. When overheated, the drivers go into thermal overload, and shut down. This might be causing your trouble.

Check to see if your original ECM has been modified for low impedance drivers.

John, your a genius. In 20 more years, I may know 1/3 of what you have forgotten.

 

[VenomGT]

First of all thank you for the replies, today I got a bug and decided to trouble shoot the turbo to see if there were more signs of blown seals and to my surprise there was just a slight sticky coating of what I think is some form of oil build up on the outlet side, it didn't look like it would cause any issues as it was dry and had to really smear my finger on it to get some on it, the compressor side had a little bit of the same but slightly darker like caramel but again very thin and dry, the exhaust side was mostly dry it had a spot that looked slightly cruddy right behind the center section of the blades. With that said also checked for play on the shaft and there was no noticeable movement in any direction but 2 of the blade tips looked curled back on the compressor blades. After having cleaned the center section it looks like the drain back is what is leaking outside of the turbo, I'll double check that it is working properly when I replace the gasket.

As for fuel I pump 93 and 100 from the Sunoco down the street I have tried different octane boosters because gallon to gallon it is cheaper and 93 with NOS octane booster gets rid of knock completely.

How do I check if the ECM has been modified for the lower impedance injectors? The chips were made by a shop back in the late 90's early 2000's they have written the specs of the tune one of them says "55#inj-22*timing street tune."

 

[GNVenom]

Usually there will be a paper tag on the ECM that shows it's been modified. If not, you'd need to open the ECM and look at the driver transistors, possibly see if the PC board had been soldered in that area.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

First of all thank you for the replies, today I got a bug and decided to trouble shoot the turbo to see if there were more signs of blown seals and to my surprise there was just a slight sticky coating of what I think is some form of oil build up on the outlet side, it didn't look like it would cause any issues as it was dry and had to really smear my finger on it to get some on it, the compressor side had a little bit of the same but slightly darker like caramel but again very thin and dry, the exhaust side was mostly dry it had a spot that looked slightly cruddy right behind the center section of the blades. With that said also checked for play on the shaft and there was no noticeable movement in any direction but 2 of the blade tips looked curled back on the compressor blades. After having cleaned the center section it looks like the drain back is what is leaking outside of the turbo, I'll double check that it is working properly when I replace the gasket.

As for fuel I pump 93 and 100 from the Sunoco down the street I have tried different octane boosters because gallon to gallon it is cheaper and 93 with NOS octane booster gets rid of knock completely.

How do I check if the ECM has been modified for the lower impedance injectors? The chips were made by a shop back in the late 90's early 2000's they have written the specs of the tune one of them says "55#inj-22*timing street tune."

Like I said, forget the oil problem for now. You can go back to that.
Get it to never knock.
I have had an aftermarket computer for years now. Maybe someone with more stock ECM experience can chime in.

 

[VenomGT]

NY, I finally got it to not knock at all, sometimes it picks up .7 at the shift points but thats about it. I went with a Snow Performance Stage 2 kit and I am impressed at how well it work and how simple it was to install. I also purchased a TT 5.7 chip with my list of mods and alky injection ml/min and the car is a whole different car now, no more stumbles or anything, I still have the intermittent oil problem which now that I think about it is not as pronounced as it was at first which with other things I did leads me to believe that the oil burning may be a temperature issue because after I flushed the radiator and filled it with Zerex G-05 which seems to work better than whatever was in it because my temperatures seem more stable now, highest reading in the past week was 178*....makes me wonder if the temperature spikes sitting at idle had anything to do with it.
My plan now is to install the MAF translator and relocate the filter behind the driver side air deflector, single shot 3" or 4" exhaust and some 275/60-15 tires on the rear on the stock rims also I have to address other minor issues like a leaking front pump seal, leaking axle tube and figure out what is inside my gas tank that I can not get more than 11 gallons in it with the gauge reading empty. Btw do any of you know where to buy straight methanol around the tri-state area so I can mix my own, I have two cases of boost juice right now so won't be needing it any time soon but for the same amount of cash I can make 20 gallons assuming that I can purchase 5 gallon for under $60 online prices are around that but shipping is redonculous.