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Cleaning the engine...

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Wahoo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
1,603
What's a good product to use to clean the grease and grim off the engine that won't damage anything? What's the best process to prevent water damage or other damage?

Under my hood is pretty dirty and every time I touch something my hands get filthy, and it looks pretty ugly right now.
 
I use JaxWax engine compartment cleaner & detail kit. Works great!

http://store.jaxwax.com/Jax-Wax-Engine-Compartment-Clean-and-Detail-Kit-p/jwk060.htm

On a cold engine........Cover up alternator/coil pack/tps, etc with a plactic bag then Spray on the orange citrus cleaner, then spray it off with a pressure sprayer.......& then apply the Shine All polymer solution....take it for a drive on the highway for a few miles (this will heat up your engine compartment& voila...your engine is cleaned & detailed.

Just gotta take some aluminum polish to your exposed aluminum parts as they sometimes get water marked, but easy to do. Sure beats the alternative.
 
Never use armorall or any other petroleum based "protectants" in the engine bay. Dirt and dust sticks to that stuff.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 
I use JaxWax engine compartment cleaner & detail kit. Works great!

http://store.jaxwax.com/Jax-Wax-Engine-Compartment-Clean-and-Detail-Kit-p/jwk060.htm

On a cold engine........Cover up alternator/coil pack/tps, etc with a plactic bag then Spray on the orange citrus cleaner, then spray it off with a pressure sprayer.......& then apply the Shine All polymer solution....take it for a drive on the highway for a few miles (this will heat up your engine compartment& voila...your engine is cleaned & detailed.

Just gotta take some aluminum polish to your exposed aluminum parts as they sometimes get water marked, but easy to do. Sure beats the alternative.



I have done the Jax Wax Cleaning method before, the Shine All Spray is waterbased and it works really good . The Orange Citrus cleaner is also good for cleaning and degreasing.
 
I cover parts I don't want wet, lightly dampen everything (no pressure) then soak it in P21S Total Auto Wash. I dilute it but I can't remember how much. It is pretty strong. I get it from the member "kwiker" on here. He is a detailing guru. Anyway, that with light yet thorough brushing (like with the "soft" wheel brushes), then a low pressure rinse worked better for me than anything else I ever tried. Everything looked factory new. None of the grime had a chance. Leaves no residue.
 
Meguiars safe-d-greaser in a foaming spray bottle. Follow up with hyperdressing (it's a safe dressing for engine compartments)
 
Try to avoid using a pressure washer. The electrical connections under the hood while water resistant are not designed to be blasted with water. I've diagnosed many electrical problems which were caused by overzealous engine cleaning. To put it in perspective it's like dealing with a car that suffered flood damage. Even when using a garden hose pay particular attention to any connector that is not facing down and can trap water. A best practice would be to avoid avoid hitting connectors at all with water and chemicals.

Water + Chemicals = Electrolytes which in turn means some form of corrosion on the terminals.

If you do (or did) soak it your best bet is to open each connector and give it a spritz of WD40 or similar dispersant.
 
The day after I bought my car 4-5 years ago I took it to get detailed at Classic Car Spa in Gilbert, AZ. I paid for the premium package that included a Pressure Wash of the engine. By the time I got my car back it had a Service Engine Soon light and kept stalling. The TPS had gotten wet.
I take my time now and remove as much parts as I can and clean them individually with a rag, scrub brush and use some Satin spray paint.

ImageUploadedByTurboBuick Mobile1377567288.374554.jpg
 
If it is REALLY dirty then pulling the engine will get you the results you are looking for...not that big of a deal to do if you have a garage and the time.

Bryan
 
I agree with Bryan. Its the best way to do it right, plus you learn a lot. Not hard to do. The longer I t takes the better it will be. By the way David, great picture. That looks perfect.

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Any engine degreaser, box of rags, toothbrush and time and some elbow grease!
 
take about $5 worth of quarters with you to a self serve car wash... these things were designed to operate in extreme conditions and everything that needs to be water tight is water tight.
 
pressure washer is ok,as long as you don't pound the electronics with it. also avoid pressure washer around the heater box,the seal is old and water can drip on your ECM,them car barely runs,ask me how i know!
 
Curious, just how long do you think it would take the average joe, with a hoist, to remove a motor? The part I'm always scared of is the exhaust bolts and clamps. My car is essentially stock and I've wondered how hard it would be? Not that I plan on doing anytime soon.
Joel
 
Curious, just how long do you think it would take the average joe, with a hoist, to remove a motor? The part I'm always scared of is the exhaust bolts and clamps. My car is essentially stock and I've wondered how hard it would be? Not that I plan on doing anytime soon.
Joel

Ideally removing engine would be the best idea as you have open access to the Firewall, Frame.

If there is any concern in removing the engine I would suggest removing the bolt on parts.

If you would remove the Intake Piping, Intercooler, Radiator/fans, Turbo and Downpipe, wheel wells. That would give you enough room to climb inside your engine bay and really get down and clean the engine without putting strain on your back (we all know how leaning over our cars fiddling with little stuff can affect us)

You can then remove Valve Covers, Throttle Body and Plenum and clean all the items you removed seperately and give them a good coat of paint.

I would say 4-6 hours for your first time.
I took alot of Zip Lock Bags and wrote on there with marker what the bolts/parts were for.

The good thing about having the engine out is you can redo the electrical wiring.
 
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