Cometic head gasket installed now leaking water/oil

[Chris McDade]

Got the motor back in the car. I installed head gaskets cometic .050 dry. Broke in cam yesterday. I'm getting water drip on back side of block on both sides and a little oil. I'm going to try a re torque and see if this helps.

Any suggestions?

 

[Mike Licht]

yes the water is leaking form the studs about 99% of the time, put is some bars leak or some GM tabets

 

[Chris McDade]

Will do...thanks Mike


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[gunzandgearz]

The sfuff I like using on my studs is a GM sealant and it works great, had tons of problems with the ARP sealant {wouldn't work} and a lot of the other stuff out there, this is the best stuff I have found. I can call my GM guy and get part number if anyone is interested because the can I am using part of the number is missing.

 

[Chris McDade]

I used RTV around the bolts but, I guess it didn't hold.

I would be interested in knowing what you use.


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[BEATAV8]

Loctite 545 hydraulic thread sealant works 100% of the time. Never any question about it.

 

[larrym]

I have used the right stuff and locktite successfully.

 

[gunzandgearz]

Hey chris the part number is a GM1050026 and you have to buy it over the parts counter at any GM dealership. The old man that turned me onto the stuff has built more race engines than you can shake a stick at and I have built quite a few myself, its never let me down,give it a try.

 

[Chris McDade]

Thanks Gunz I will look it up. I guess I'm going to try the GM tabs this go around.


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[ek02]

Permatex 56521 PTFE thread sealer works well also and is recommended by GM. I use GM seal tabs also. Never any leaks.

 

[gunzandgearz]

The tabs work good on an engine that's already together I personally don't like adding anything to my cooling system, kinda goops things up but it works if you don't want to pull it back apart. Give it a try on your next build, I think you will be happy.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

I didn't have the coolant issue with my cometics but I have oil seepage. If you can live with that then you should be able to seal the water issue up with tabs. I doubt a re-torque will fix the oil issue. I re-torqued twice and still leak. My motors coming out at the end of the season.

I installed mine with copper spray and the only thing I noticed is after I ran it at the track and got motor temp up to say 180 a few times my oil leak slowed down. Not sure why but it still leaks so I'm going to put it back on the stand and re-group.

Good luck with getting it sealed up. Hope it works out for you.

 

[Chris McDade]

I don't feel like pulling a motor again right now. Good weather is coming up here in Texas ;-). I will try some GM tabs and see if it works.

I had cometic on my last build with cooper spray and still had oil leaks just no water leaks. Im pretty sure im done using these gaskets. Next time I will use RJC.

Thanks guys!

 

[ttypewhite]

The best way to do this is NOT the most favored. Pull the heads off, clean the surface, brake clean the stud holes and take a compressor and blow the holes dry. Use thread sealer on the studs and put Humpty Dumpty back together again. I'm not a fan of tabs or stop leak stuff that goes in the rad. It just makes an absolute mess inside the motor, your heater core, water pump and rad, and builds up like sludge. But that's just me, only because I have been there and done that before....

 

[turbolou]

I have run into this problem also more than once. Rather than pull the engine apart again I use a product that has been around forever and saved my ass many times through my fifty some years as a mechanic. K&W block sealer if used properly will not plug the cooling system as indicated. You must drain any coolant first fill the system with plain water, warm up the engine, Run the engine making sure to put the system under pressure unplug the fan if you must ( but don't over heat the engine of course ) then drain the cooling system remove the spark plugs to let air into the clys & let car set till it gets good and cold then add the coolant back.

 

[ek02]

I used K&W years ago on a 6 cylinder Ford flathead with a cracked exhaust valve seat. Coolant was coming out the exhaust port. Followed the directions and it sealed the crack. It missed until the valve seat got flat again, then ran for years with no coolant loss. You have to drain it dry though. Do not leave it in the cooling system. This "Mechanic In A Can" product does work.

 

[Chris McDade]

Mike, I totally agree with you. That is the best way to handle this. Not sure what way im going with this yet. If, I do end up adding tablets it will be a little at a time until the leak stops.

Where do you get this K&W block sealer?

 

[turbolou]

Mike, I totally agree with you. That is the best way to handle this. Not sure what way im going with this yet. If, I do end up adding tablets it will be a little at a time until the leak stops.

Where do you get this K&W block sealer?

Any parts house should carry it. In fact I would recommend doing the treatment anytime you do a rebuild as an insurance policy,The next best would be silver seal it too won't plug your system. But don't use pellets or Bars leak that stuff is nasty

 

[Chris McDade]

Thanks guys. I'm fighting a no spark issue right now so, I can't break the motor in. Once I get it figured i'm going try the K&W.

Thanks again.

 

[Chris McDade]

Do you drain the block also? Only thing I usually do to drain the system is pull the upper and lower hoses.