convertor to flexplate clearance ?

[LOT]

Forged crank with J&W flexplate mated to a 200R4 with a Precision N/L convertor. The clearance is next to zero. I say zero--owner says .016. You can hear it rub as I rotate the convertor so it is NOT pressing against flexplate. Convertor is fully seated as trans was left in car with convertor on.
Looking for suggestions as to how to gain .060 clearance or close to that. Owner says it was like that before engine build ( of cource convertor builders never make a bad one), afraid to go back with the new engine and ruin it. I can think of a few ways to gain clearance and would like to hear from any and all who have done this.
#1 --remove pump--chuck stator tube in lathe and remove some from back side of pump, but how much can be removed safely?
#2--remove some from convertor snout, the rotor end. Again how much and I would use an old rotor to check fit. Precision says "Do not do this as it will not fit pump correctly" I can see maybe the stator and input splines not fitting inside convertor, I'm sure I can make convertor snout fit pump.
#3--I have not looked @ the convertor as he is pulling it tonight but it appears that the 3 pads protude outward to the point where I could remove some there.
Open to any and all suggestions. Thanks---Lee

 

[bad V6]

Lee, I got it figured out. Thanks for the assistance!

 

[bison]

Forged crank with J&W flexplate mated to a 200R4 with a Precision N/L convertor. The clearance is next to zero. I say zero--owner says .016. You can hear it rub as I rotate the convertor so it is NOT pressing against flexplate. Convertor is fully seated as trans was left in car with convertor on.
Looking for suggestions as to how to gain .060 clearance or close to that. Owner says it was like that before engine build ( of cource convertor builders never make a bad one), afraid to go back with the new engine and ruin it. I can think of a few ways to gain clearance and would like to hear from any and all who have done this.
#1 --remove pump--chuck stator tube in lathe and remove some from back side of pump, but how much can be removed safely?
#2--remove some from convertor snout, the rotor end. Again how much and I would use an old rotor to check fit. Precision says "Do not do this as it will not fit pump correctly" I can see maybe the stator and input splines not fitting inside convertor, I'm sure I can make convertor snout fit pump.
#3--I have not looked @ the convertor as he is pulling it tonight but it appears that the 3 pads protude outward to the point where I could remove some there.
Open to any and all suggestions. Thanks---Lee

If you had to you would do what you suggested in #3 but it has to be accurate

 

[bad V6]

I got lucky, crawled back under the car with a small prybar and the converter fell right into place, plenty of clearance. The converter was not removed from the car when the old engine was pulled. After installing the new motor, myself and another gentleman could spin but not push the converter back into the tranny. Now the converter moves in and out freely.