Coolant Lines - with or without the TB bypass?

[Heisenberg]

I bought the ones that are identical to the stock version - with the throttle body bypass ports.
Now - I'm thinking I'd rather not have that heat there.

I know this used to a an old trick they recommended to do by looping a line from nipple to nipple.
But that is so unsightly - and I can swap the ones I bought for the other ones for a cleaner look.

1 - Is it strictly for cold weather driveability or is there any other beneficial effect?
2- Does removing them help in the summer, or overall?

So - with nipple or without.

Let the double entendres commence!

 

[blackgn1]

Without. There's really no need for coolant to the throttle body. Some will say having them puts more heat in the air running in the engine. I can't prove or disprove this but I always remove them.

 

[Heisenberg]

Without. There's really no need for coolant to the throttle body. Some will say having them puts more heat in the air running in the engine. I can't prove or disprove this but I always remove them.

The heat is why that old trick of looping the hoses used to be recommended. Fact or fiction - not sure.
I just have my darned car torn apart and am wrestling with having to wait to get the other stainless line without nipples.

I had this little "issue" of no boost on the WE4 - "you know - like having no boost is a little issue" - and come to find out - even though most of the motor work is A1 - someone had a non-stock style "S" hose on there, that was much too long, and pushing up against my waste gate actuator line and generally crowding things in that space under the turbo so much that it made a mess. And it was slightly kinked - which is no biggie, since a little less hot water to a heater core is not a huge priority in GA.

My heater control valve looked like hell, and my coolant lines were overdue for a change out anyway - so all of it is out of the engine bay at the moment - and I'm really wanting (desperate) to put the car back together. I just HATE to do things twice - hence the mental wrestle with having to wait for the other coolant line.

 

[Rich Gio]

I can't recall but I think I read that even the GM engineers agreed that the throttle body heat was only necessary in severe cold conditions. Mine is blocked off but I don't think it makes much difference. I'll hook it back up when (and if) my car goes back 100% concours stock.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

It's safe to say that we all love our nipples. ....but.......go with the nipple less ones....as you've stated it's much less cluttered looking & really serves no purpose (unless you drive in the winter / extremely cold weather). In a pinch if you kept the nippled ones you can use "the right stuff" inside your nipple outlets & install some test caps held on with safety tie wire or tie wraps. This would clean it up vs stock set up.

 

[earlbrown]

Don't sweat it. If you drove above the artic circle in a steady state on a mountain road, there's a chance ice could form on the throttle shaft locking it open sending you through a guard rail and off the side of a mountain.

Here in GA it's rare those driving conditions occur.

 

[Rich Gio]

there's a chance ice could form on the throttle shaft locking it open sending you through a guard rail and off the side of a mountain.
Here in GA it's rare those driving conditions occur.

Yeah, no guard rails in GA. LOL

 

[1952ray]

Who is selling the nipple-less ones ( vendor )

 

[Heisenberg]

Who is selling the nipple-less ones ( vendor )

Bweavy - Gbodyparts.com

http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1238

 

[Heisenberg]

Well - since I was looking for a temporary solution while waiting for the right set of lines

Riddle me this?
What is the intended purpose of the return line (of the coolant lines set) that connects to the Passenger side of the intake manifold?
I say "return" - but I may have my flow pattern backwards the more I look at it.
What does that coolant feed? And is it important?
If one of the answers is heads - never mind answering the rest.
I could dig out my service manual for the coolant diagram - but lazy (sorry)

Perhaps I just run from the "S" hose straight to the intake manifold fitting nipple (I said nipple again - sorry)
That way - I leave the S-hose attached for easier reassembly later.
And completely bypass the heater stuff until the new set of lines arrive?

- OR-

What about not even going that far and capping that port of the water pump?
No? Yes...issues?

 

[Heisenberg]

As I said - I was expecting the double entetres
Cold weather
Nipples
Right out of an episode of Beavis n Butthead.

How bout you boys get your collective minds out of the gutter for a second and tell me about capping that manifold fitting temporarily?
Then we can get back to our regularly scheduled programming....Next up..Beavis n Butthead go to the dragstrip....

 

[1KWIKSIX]

For a temporary fix, just put some tight fitting rubber caps on both throttle body coolant line nipples . If you want, place a dab of "The Right Stuff or Permatex "Ultra Black" on them first to guarantee no leaks & then either small stainless gear clamps, safety wire - tied with safety wire pliers or even tie wraps & be done....at least until your nipple(less) coolant line arrives & is installed.

I'd leave all the other hoses & S hoses intact as is.

 

[Heisenberg]

For a temporary fix, just put some tight fitting rubber caps on both throttle body coolant line nipples . If you want, place a dab of "The Right Stuff or Permatex "Ultra Black" on them first to guarantee no leaks & then either small stainless gear clamps, safety wire - tied with safety wire pliers or even tie wraps & be done....at least until your nipple(less) coolant line arrives & is installed.

I'd leave all the other hoses & S hoses intact as is.

Charlie loves this reply from me - "Blah"

Good idea on the capping on the nipples with RTV though.

But - I don't want to use that stainless coolant line with the nipples. At all.
Because it becomes - "A Used part"
I want to bypass the heater A/C stuff for a minute until the other one arrives.

I look at the nipple fitting on the side of the manifold and see - rather nothing.
I looks like it is in the same chamber as the upper radiator hose connection.
To me - I think I can cap it.

But...as I was asking...what if?

Same with the Water Pump side of the "S" hose.

Not permanently.
Just for a couple of days.
At WOT of course! It's nice n cool again down here

Think "A/C - Heater DELETE" type setup.
Surely those guys must just plug both the intake where the fitting goes and the water pump "S" Hose nipple.
Or do they run some sort of funky "S" hose to that intake manifold fitting - for....some purpose?

 

[earlbrown]

If you want to remove everything get a 1/2"NPT plug and that will seal up the intake manifold. For the other end a plain ole 5/8" heater cap for a SBC will fit and can be found at the parts store.


Or you can get a 1/2NPT barb fitting for the intake, and just run two heater hoses to the heater core and not have the solid line at all.

 

[Heisenberg]

If you want to remove everything get a 1/2"NPT plug and that will seal up the intake manifold. For the other end a plain ole 5/8" heater cap for a SBC will fit and can be found at the parts store.


Or you can get a 1/2NPT barb fitting for the intake, and just run two heater hoses to the heater core and not have the solid line at all.

Clam and I were kicking the issue around.

Will the water "misbehave" or act ill if that smaller outlet port is just capped.
Or would it prefer to see the hose between it and the side of the intake manifold.

The ole "air pocket" - bypass sort of thing we were wondering.

 

[earlbrown]

Messing with the heater circuit can't do anything bad to you (other than not having a heater).

Just don't delete the S shaped bypass hose if you run a thermostat.

 

[scojack_2001]

I just went our and got a -10AN 90° swivel fitting and put it on the intake and a few feet of 5/8" heater hose. Looks okay and will do for now. Much cheaper than the $95 for the stainless pipes.

 

[Heisenberg]

Messing with the heater circuit can't do anything bad to you (other than not having a heater).

Just don't delete the S shaped bypass hose if you run a thermostat.

You mean the "S" shaped hose that goes from the top of the water pump to the front of the intake manifold; right near the cam sensor.
The "other" "S" shaped hose.
Which on my car- also looks to be aftermarket as I am not completely happy with the way it seems the bends are a little "scrunched". Just a little. As if it is just a tab bit too long. Like the "S" hose" connected to the coolant lines was - but that one was scrunched in a big way. Those looked like hoses I see folks writing about that they get at O'Reilly's that "are almost a perfect fit" Almost.

 

[Heisenberg]

I just went our and got a -10AN 90° swivel fitting and put it on the intake and a few feet of 5/8" heater hose. Looks okay and will do for now. Much cheaper than the $95 for the stainless pipes.

I have no problem using the proper stainless lines. I just have to wait for my preferred set to arrive - less Throttle Body nipples.

 

[earlbrown]

You mean the "S" shaped hose that goes from the top of the water pump to the front of the intake manifold; right near the cam sensor.
The "other" "S" shaped hose.
Which on my car- also looks to be aftermarket as I am not completely happy with the way it seems the bends are a little "scrunched". Just a little. As if it is just a tab bit too long. Like the "S" hose" connected to the coolant lines was - but that one was scrunched in a big way. Those looked like hoses I see folks writing about that they get at O'Reilly's that "are almost a perfect fit" Almost.

The bypass hose is the one that doesn't go to the heater lines. If it's scrunched to the point it might be pinched off, can you remove it and shorten the ends a little?