cooling fan problems

[Jackie grabos]

hello, i just installed the gn1 performance front intercooler dual spal fan set up. it is plug and play. have everything installed and will not come on. my previous fan was direct wired and ran as long as car was on. when i disconnected the positve cable i heard a click from the engine. next the fan kicked on for about 2 seconds and stopped. it happened when was disconnecting and the screw touched the outside edge of the terminal. when i screw it back in it will not come on. if i start the car and disconnect again i hear the click from the engine and fan comes on for 2 seconds. have checked the fuses. could this be caused by a bad fan delay relay? if so this would explain the hotwired fan. also where is the fan delay relay located if this is the problem. thanks-jon

 

[mikestertwo]

The fan delay relay is the large relay on the drivers side inner fender.

 

[Jackie grabos]

cooling fan help

ok, i installed the front mount intercooler dual spal fans from gn1 performance. the fans will come on but not until my temp reaches approx 205. could it a bad cooling fan relay that causes this? what are my options as far as cooling. i paid a lot for the fan and got it before it went up thank goodness. is there a manual temp switch i can install with this set up. i don't think it is a bad temp gauge because i can feel the heat from the engine through the vents when i accelerate. i did not feel this with the previous hard wired fan that ran all the time. i guess i could change back and sell the dual fans but these have to work normally somehow. help

 

[T What?]

I have had a problem with my low speed not coming on. Here is a link to trouble shoot the problem. I helped me narrow down my issue. The quickest way to find out is to do this. Pull the connector off the low speed relay.

The connector terminal on the low speed relay with the two heavy red wires should be hot at all times. Is It?

The brown wire connector terminal should be hot when the key is in the on position. Is it?

If yes, to the red wires above, stick a jumper wire in the connector between the red and the black/red wires. This gives a direct shot between the battery and the fan. The fan should run. Does it?

If it does not, then it would appear to be a problem in the fan connector. They have a bad habit of burning the terminals in the plug over time.

That was it for me. I hope this helps.

 

[T What?]

Fan Trouble Shooting

Here is the full diagnosis options.

 

[Nick Micale]

hello, i just installed the gn1 performance front intercooler dual spal fan set up.....................jon

Is this a China copy of a Spal dual fan?

Just beware if it is as I have recently replaced a POS GN-1 dual fan that would not cool nearly as good as a stock GN fan.

 

[Jackie grabos]

i hope it is not the one from china. it was almost 400 bucks. going to call gn1and see if they can shed some light on the problem. i will also go through the trouble shooting guide and will see if i can narrow it down. have to work today so will try to get on it monday. thanks for everyones help.

 

[Jackie grabos]

Ok, I read the fan trouble shooting guide from the link on previous post. It says the ECM controls when the fan comes on. According to the guide the fan is set to come on around 200 degrees. My fans are coming on and runs for approximate 30-45 seconds. This cools temp to about 185, but it will creep right back up. From the advice I have received here I should be 160-190 normal temp. My question is there any thing I can use to over ride the ECM and have fan kick on at lower temp? I have 160 thero and replaced coolant temp sensor. Going to call spal tomorrow and see what they say. Any help much appreciated.

 

[Nick Micale]

You need to isolate the problem.

If you are using stock fan wiring and relays, bypass all that and jumper the fans to power to see if they will run for more than a minute.

That should tell you if you have a fan problem or a wiring/relay problem.

Calling Spal will probably be of no value if the fans run at all, it appears to be a issue with your car until you can give them [or us] more details on your trouble shooting?.

Unless there is a Spal decal/number on the fans, it would be usless not to have that before calling them.

 

[Jackie grabos]

ok going to go look and see if i can direct wire. i still have old wiring from previous fan. will reconnect this and ground and maybe they will runn all the time. hopefully this will fix problem.

 

[Dabigguy]

Ok, I read the fan trouble shooting guide from the link on previous post. It says the ECM controls when the fan comes on. According to the guide the fan is set to come on around 200 degrees. My fans are coming on and runs for approximate 30-45 seconds. This cools temp to about 185, but it will creep right back up. From the advice I have received here I should be 160-190 normal temp. My question is there any thing I can use to over ride the ECM and have fan kick on at lower temp? I have 160 thero and replaced coolant temp sensor. Going to call spal tomorrow and see what they say. Any help much appreciated.

What chip do you have in your ECM? The chip controls what temp the fan cuts on/off. If it is the stock chip, that's about right. Just because you have a 160 stat in it doesn't mean that the fan will cut on or the engine will maintain 160. An aftermarket chip can be burned to turn on fan at 160.

 

[Jackie grabos]

hey, this is what i have read also. the fans seem to working normally, just they are not coming on soon enough for my liking. if they would run at lower temp i think they would work great. it cools fast once it comes on. i have an atr strip hp138b chip and other chips. the one i have in now says street. i also have one in seprate package that says r108 and another that says bsh34boe extender and another that says spiorhf atr and another atr that has nothing on it. i have been told to get a turbo tweak chip. can he program fan to come on cooler. i would order but not sure what all set up i have needed in order info.

 

[Dabigguy]

Jackie, DO NOT run the r108 chip on pump gas. It is a race chip designed for 108+ octane fuel. I am not familiar with the other chips, but Turbo Tweak chips are the BOMB !!! You will need to know your combination before ordering a chip. Go to "How to order a chip" on the TT website and you'll find all the info he needs to burn a chip. TurboTweak Home

Here is a link to a website that contains a treasure of reference information for our cars. Spend a couple of days there, yup I said a couple of days and education yourself and feel free to ask questions here if there's something else you need to know. We are here to help ya. Vortex Buicks

 

[Jackie grabos]

also would one of the cooling fan control that stick in the rediator work? i have seen them at oriely.

 

[Dabigguy]

It will work, but for about the price you pay for the fan control, you can buy a new chip......and you really won't need the control. I think the chips are $85.

 

[Jackie grabos]

found the extender chip on fullthrottlespeed.com. it says it has 2 modes for fan. street it comes on at 170 and race it comes on at 160. going to replace the atr chip with the extender and see if that works. will get back to you. i have a maf translator and think this is designed to work with it also. it has adjustable parameters. not sure of all settings but if it will cool better i will take it. will let you know what happens. thanks again

 

[Jackie grabos]

alright, new chip is in and kicks on at 165. the fan runs the whole time once car reaches temp until below approx 160. sat on throttle at 3000 rpm for 40 sec and never moved. i believe it is the street version of extender chip based on when fan comes on. the car sounds different at idle, almost like it is lopeing? anyway, also replaced some vacuum lines that were dry rotted. about to wash her and take her out for a test drive. if everything goes good this will be first time car has ran perfect since i purchased a couple of months ago, besides ac not working. i had a vw corrado vr6 that was my project car before. then i got gn fever and sold the car and started over. two very different cars. thanks again and i appreciate everyones help.

 

[Dabigguy]

GREAT !!!!! Now do you have a Scanmaster or Power Logger so you can tell what your engine is doing? A scan tool is more important to have with these cars than a 3/8 drive ratchet !!!

 

[Jackie grabos]

there is a hook up under my dash for something that was by the temp and oil pressure gauges. nit sure what it was. i will post some picks of engine etc and see if you can shed some light on my set up. i have red stripes on injectors and pitbull chip i hve says 40lbs. i believe downpipe and exhaust are atr as i have atr sticker on turbo cover. i guess they are stock. turbo is garrett ar60 m24? the heads and manifold are ported. i have the reciepts. thanks again and will post the pics in a bit.

 

[Jackie grabos]

Which do you recommend? Would an egt gauge or air fuel gauge work as well? Just not sure how to read scan master. Also I have tried adjusting the screw to get more boost. To shorten the rod you turn to the left, is that correct? I am only getting about 10lbs of boost and then the needle on the gauge will flutter between 10-15. Should the waste gate arm be able to move with your hand? Mine does not. Is it possible the arm is stuck or hole in diaphragm? It does not matter which way I turn it, I cannot get more than 10lbs. Will attach some pics when I get home from work tonight. Camera was broken.