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correct way to winterize alki injection

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mc575

Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2012
Messages
95
I did a search and could not find procedure. I assume disconnect lines at engine and resevior then running water thru followed by blowing system out with air?
 
Right now it has alki in it. I'm told its highly corrosive. Flush and dry i'm guessing is the way to go.
 
its corrosive but not to the parts that it touches in the alkycontrol kit
 
I just drive my car or at least run the pump once per month. I run straight meth. The main concern is that alcohol absorbs water, and if you let the system sit, the water can settle in the low points, ie the pump, then freeze and hurt the pump.
 
1)Unhook hose from nozzle.
2)Put hose into container
3)Turn ignition ON and push test button. Putting Gain knob on 8 makes it flow a little faster.
4)When no more alcohol comes out... fill tank with windshield washer fluid rated to the storage temp. Car will see -10.. get -20 washer fluid.
5) using test button run system until blue washer fluid comes out of hose
6)Reconnect hose.. your done.

What you did was cut down the concentration of methanol the pump is sitting in. Which should in theory help the pump.
 
If you use it all along during the winter and not in freezing environment are they any maintenance steps to do the alky system ?
 
if you use it you dont need to do anything , meth cant freeze (atleast not on this earth)
as for maintenance it is the lifeblood of your car under boost
so regularly check the level and check around hoses and pump for leaks
the low level led will let you know when its time to add more meth
test with the razor alky tester and verify the pump output pressure . the tester is also a good way to find pressure leaks that go unnoticed when boosting because the meth evaporates quickly while moving

or you could do nothing as most do and forget its there and wait until your knock gauge tells you when its time to look into the alky delivery
 
yep , just give him a call

its a gauge with a nozzle that screws inplace of the reservoir cap , a map simulator that will plug into the map sensor plug and allow you to dial the pump up
you disconnect your feed hose at the nozzle and connect to the gauge setup anduse the simulator to activate the pump (key on ) and it will spray into the reservoir
 
It is also good practice every few years send the pump in for service to freshen it up with new seals. It keeps the wolf in check.
 
Or do what I did and buy a new pump and when it's time send the old one in for a rebuild, that way you're always ready to go. Pumps aren't too expensive.
 
Or do what I did and buy a new pump and when it's time send the old one in for a rebuild, that way you're always ready to go. Pumps aren't too expensive.


x2. I have enough friends and my dad as well as me that run Razor's kit, so I keep a fresh pump on the shelf and just swap it out. They seem to start leaking every 3 years for us, so we just rebuild the leaky one and shelf it when it gets back. Still cheaper than race gas!
 
What is the correct readings supposed to be when testing with the test kit from Razor ? I need a baseline to check for future readings
 
mine tests at 135psi with gain at 5-6 and the map signal at 5v with the simulator
 
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