Ok, Mat231v6 provided some inspiration. Beautiful job, Matt. Due to some financial obligations, I really don't want to pay the body shop for something I can do myself. Here is my game plan: I have an extra hood and trunk lid that I was planning to practice on. I can strip the old paint (just like the body shop was planning on doing). Then, after watching the Duplicolor video, I can spray Duplicolor premixed primer, basecoat and clearcoat. As for the roof, there is some hail damage so I can get the bodyshop's estimate to smooth it out with bondo and primer it. Heck, I have a sunroof, so that might save me money, right? Then, as for the doors/fenders, bodyshop wasn't planning on taking it down to bare metal, so I won't either. It has original paint except for driver side rear quarter panel which had a repair done to it. I'll let the bodyshop address that for me, too. I'll do the rest of the car myself. I still need to buy an air compressor ($400 at Lowes) and a paint gun (hopefully they make one requiring 5 cfm or less). Anybody have a recomendation for a paint gun requiring 5 cfm or less? Also, I need advice on temperature/humidity. It is winter here. I can run my kersosen heater in the garage which gets it up to 60-70 degrees or so. Humidity seems to be high around here, like 70% sometimes. It's actually raining right now! Is it ok to paint in these conditions? I'm not expecting a show car. Should I build a paint booth out of 2X4's and plastic sheeting to keep the dust down? Thanks guys.
this is a very good site.
Autobodystore Forums
So you don't like the Kirker? I can just buy paint and clear coat here locally. We have a Sherwin Williams (expensive), a PPG dealer, and a Car Quest (not sure of their brand). I was quoted from $300 to $600 for paint, primer, clear. That is in my budget. I don't know what the Duplicolor would cost. Will check out the paint guns from Harbor Freight. We have a store here a few miles away.ok you can do this cheep if you would like. go on craigslist and find a used compressor i got a big compressor for $100 a champion compressor. i used a binks spray gun but for $20 you can get a harbor fright gun; binks actually makes them and sells the the guns renamed to harbor fright alot of people dont know this. as for the paint you can get a gallon of primer from autobody tool mart for $40 and a gallon of thinner for $20 alot cheaper than the duplicolar stuff. the duplicolor stuff is pre mixed so you get half of it thinner. you can buy omni paint but its not that good just buy ppg. ppg makes that omni its like $20 a qt.ppg just doesnt test this stuff often. you can wet sand and buff the car yourself thats what gives you the shine. that all it takes.Evercoat Dura Build Acrylic Primer Surfacer - 1 Gallon Gray - 2274 thats the primer
Kirker Ultra-Glo Acrylic Urethane Enamel - Black - UA-70330 here is some cheap single stage paint i dont use this stuff it doesnt shine as nice as basecoat/clear coat. this is for 3/4 gallon when you add the hardners and stuff it will paint a whole car. if you take a chance you can do it cheap im only 19 and i have restored 3 car all have won awards at car shows. and every car i did except for the dune buggy had to have rust repair. if i can do it anyone can. see my slide show in my sig. if you have any questions pm me or just keep posting on this post.
the only reason i dont like it is because it doesnt shine as well. i think if you wet sanded the car to 3000 you might get it to shine like basecoat/clear coat. you just can't beat the price all it will cost is like $100 to paint the whole car. if you like to wet sand and spend the time then its the stuff for you. if will look almost like a show car. its not the materials you use it how you prepair the car. If you can block a car and make it like a arrow that what you are looking for. you can use cheap paint and still get great results. its just do you want to spend the time. get guide coat if your starting out get the spray stuff. you dust it on and sand with a block if you see metal poking out thats a high spot and it has to be knocked down. if you see the guide coat then its a low you have to fill the spot. all this just takes time. the reason a body shop cost so much is because of the time they spend. SEM 38203 Guide Coat Black Aerosol here is link to the guide coat its like $5 and this will help out alot. i know what it takes to do a show car and it takes alot of time. chip foose even uses guide coat. the little details make the difference and win you the awards.So you don't like the Kirker? I can just buy paint and clear coat here locally. We have a Sherwin Williams (expensive), a PPG dealer, and a Car Quest (not sure of their brand). I was quoted from $300 to $600 for paint, primer, clear. That is in my budget. I don't know what the Duplicolor would cost. Will check out the paint guns from Harbor Freight. We have a store here a few miles away
Unless I missed reading it in all the above threads....if you wanna be around to see the finished job you best be wearing a proper mask.
Not sure about using kerosene as a heating source with spraying paint and chemicals around.
On the other hand, if it turns out great you can pat your self on the back. If it don't you can chalk it up to a learning experience.
Having watched my kid do it for years and seeing how things like temp humidity bad primer can cause all sort of problems if you get it close to right right out of the box your doing good.
Good luck......
Thanks for all of the great advice. I guess you have to read between the lines to get a feel for what I'm trying to do. But that's ok, when I explained it to a friend on the phone this morning, he didn't quite get it either. Here is my point- I've worked with Bondo before I am no good at it. Plain and simple. I don't even want to take the time to learn how to use it. I know it would have pin holes in it and will be wavy if I tried to use it. Now, that being said, I would like the body shop to bondo and smooth out the hail dings in the roof, and deal with the bondo in the damaged rear quarter panel. I already have a dent free hood and trunk lid to put on. There are a couple of small door dings in the D/S door. I'll have the body shop take care of those too. Or a paintless dent repair guy. I'm not looking for a 100 point show car. I just intend to rough up the rest of the panels and primer/paint/clear them. That's it. I'll practice on the spare hood first to see what I can accomplish and to see if I want to go through with this. I'll wait until the weather gets nicer so I don't need the kerosene heater. Maybe I'll build a paint booth from 2X4's and plastic. I will invest in a breather mask. Maybe I can leave the garage door open if there is no wind. That's the plan. No major sanding/blocking involved.
biggest mistake is to get in a hurry. Try to cut corners and you will regret it later.
Thanks for all of the great advice. I guess you have to read between the lines to get a feel for what I'm trying to do. But that's ok, when I explained it to a friend on the phone this morning, he didn't quite get it either. Here is my point- I've worked with Bondo before I am no good at it. Plain and simple. I don't even want to take the time to learn how to use it. I know it would have pin holes in it and will be wavy if I tried to use it. Now, that being said, I would like the body shop to bondo and smooth out the hail dings in the roof, and deal with the bondo in the damaged rear quarter panel. I already have a dent free hood and trunk lid to put on. There are a couple of small door dings in the D/S door. I'll have the body shop take care of those too. Or a paintless dent repair guy. I'm not looking for a 100 point show car. I just intend to rough up the rest of the panels and primer/paint/clear them. That's it. I'll practice on the spare hood first to see what I can accomplish and to see if I want to go through with this. I'll wait until the weather gets nicer so I don't need the kerosene heater. Maybe I'll build a paint booth from 2X4's and plastic. I will invest in a breather mask. Maybe I can leave the garage door open if there is no wind. That's the plan. No major sanding/blocking involved.
My car was in a accident a few years back and the body shop ended up spraying the whole driver side of my car(Insurance). Is it possible to just spray the other half? The paint on the pass side is original and looks like poop compared to the other side...I would hate to paint it and then half a wierd paint line down the middle..lol
even if your bodywork is 100 percent right its the primer that gets you. chip foose cant spray the primer a 100 percent flat. there is alway going to be small waves from the primer. you as a human cant move you arm at the same speed across a pannel. so, some spots will have more primer than other spots. thats where you start to see small waves. it will also tell you if there are any spots you missed. and yes there are problems with the factory body. if you look close at the quarter pannel and where the roof meet you can see a small line. its right near the quarter glass area. that where they connected the roof and quarter pannel. that's the most noticable spot that is a defect this keeps you away from a truely flat car. most people don't do anything about this but it is a area that show how much work you have done. if you dont correct it its not a big deal.
Looks like I need to read up on how to paint a car. I thought blocking involved smoothing body filler (which it probably does). So the procedure that I am after involves sanding (roughing up) the existing paint, then primering it, then sanding smooth the primer, and then paint and clear coat, correct? I can do that!
Boy am I glad my cousin is in the business. He owns all of the Dupont stores in the St Louis area, 13 of them and has a spray booth at his house. My car will be going in for paint in April, a couple of dings to fix but no rust repair. I have done alot of work for him at no cost to him so he is doing my car for free. Every car he owns is black, I can't wait to see my car when it is done, he does incredible work.
Bryan