Cranks but won't start

[RoadShreader]

I thought I'd pull my 86 GN out of the garage to let it run for awhile and wash the dust off it. I've been storing it for a long time now but try to start it every so often. I had it idling for about 15-20 minutes today when all of a sudden it shut down. RPM's didn't drop, engine didn't sputter, it just stopped running.

I think it has something to do with the fuel system but I'm no pro. I did find that the fuse behind the alternator was burnt out and replaced it. However, the car still won't start. I have the hotwire kit installed and everything looks fine.

I figured instead of scratching my head and playing guessing games I'd reach out for some guidance. I wish this happened while the car was in the garage instead of outside in the elements but I'm hoping on solving the issue quickly with some helpful advice from members of this forum.

 

[pacecarta]

if you blew the fuse to the hotwire you either have a shorted relay or wiring issue , or the pump is shorted out

you could bypass the hotwire setup at the rear bumper behind the tank by unplugging the hotwire and plugging the factory plug back into the tank sender harness but if the pump is bad the next thing youll blow is the FP/inj fuse in the fuseblock inside the car

 

[~JM~]

Well...

Is the fuel pump running?

Do you have fuel pressure?

Do you have spark?

 

[RoadShreader]

I'm thinking about replacing that relay at the back of the car by the fuel tank that is apart of the hotwire kit. I just can't see why things would go bad from simply starting the car and letting it idle.

I can hear the fuel pump initiate when I turn the key on. The fuel pressure gauge in the engine compartment says 40.

I'm confident I have spark.

 

[texasmr2]

As JM implied use the KISS method. My impression is that if she is cranking there is a fuel or spark issue, most likey the issue is fuel delivery related. Just as a reminder you may want to check your fuel filter.

 

[turbotroy]

Do you have a stock maf? Are all fuses good? A noid light to plug into injectors?

 

[RoadShreader]

Yes, I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible and I too think it's something to do with the Fuel system. I hoping for some steps to test the areas of greatest probable cause.

What other fuses should I be looking for? I looked at fuses in the fuse box and didn't see any that had to do with the fuel pump. I tested for continuity in the fuses in the panel and they all were good.

I suppose I could spray some starter fluid and see if it's a fuel problem or not but I don't really like that method of testing.

 

[turbotroy]

I had a tps issue several years back, and giving it a squirt down the throat decided it.

 

[texasmr2]

Bear with me as the slope is steep (my learning curve) but could there be a DIAGNOSTIC ERROR CODE for this issue?

 

[pacecarta]

i already mentioned the the fp/inj fuse in the fuseblock under the dash ... it is for fuel pump and injectors, if injectors dont have power they wont pulse and you could have fuel pressure built up before fuse blew but it wont go into the motor

 

[achalmersman]

Check CCCI fuse also if you havent already verified spark

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[RoadShreader]

Ok, I checked all fuses under the dash and they all have continuity. I replaced the relay back at fuel tank that is apart of the Hotwire Kit. Then removed the air filter and sprayed a little starter fluid. I could it wanted to start when I turned over the car. It's apparent I am not getting fuel. I can't see the pump going out just like that out of the blue from idling the car. Is their any other simple tests I could do or anything else I could check?

 

[pmesfun]

Can you hear the pump running after turning the key to the on position?

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[RoadShreader]

Yes, I hear the pump prime for about 2 seconds.

 

[No disintegrations]

If you you have fuel pressure then use a noid light to check for injectors getting pulse width.

 

[RoadShreader]

Oh a "noid light" huh. That seems to be the handy dandy test tool I haven't added to my onslaught of mechanical tools. Oddly I've never needed one of those noid lights before. Do you feel confident that the investment of a noid light would be required to troubleshoot the dilemma I'm having with my GN?
Whatever the problem is, it popped the fuse behind the alternator. I replaced it but the car fails to start. It'll start when sprayed with starter fluid though. Any other tests I could do with common tools?

PS - I do not have a flux capacitor to test gigawatts either.

 

[achalmersman]

Personally I have "noid lights" and very rarely use them. I prefer a Fluke 87V meter although any meter would work for this. If you dont have a meter I would get that first. Some will argue a test light can put a slight load on the curcuit to test the circuit under load but this is only if your talking about one with an incandecent bulb not the LED style. When I need to load test a circuit its usually more than that so I use other means. Now one tool I have that I really like is a power probe. It has a volt meter built in, and you can apply power or ground to the circuit via a switch. Google "Power Probe". If you dont have a multimeter I would get a multimeter first. I would also buy a power probe in place of a test light....unless money is tight

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[RoadShreader]

I've got a multimeter which is what I used to test the fuses in the dash panel. Could you provide detailed instructions on how to perform the test you mentioned? Please break it down Barney style, I'm not master tech and although I've owned this car for more than 20 years my familiarity with all the mechanical components is vague.

Questions: Is there another relay under the hood that I could check or replace that has something to do with the fuel system? Also, behind the alternator I noticed a disconnected connection. I'm thinking it may have been disconnected years ago when a buddy of mine installed the hotwire kit.

 

[achalmersman]

By using a meter to measure voltage I just mean ground your black and use the red lead to check for voltage. Meter set to Vdc. But for this im talking about all voltage measurements. For measuring voltage at the ign module etc. Now like No Disintegrations said the test light is a nice way to watch injector pulse but you dont have one and if your a novice on a meter the test light is the easiest for watching pulse on injectors. You could buy a real cheap one. Should have constant 12v on one side of the injector and grounded pulse on the other. To test the pulsed side you would hook the clip of the light to the positive batt terminal and when the ecm supplies ground the light will illuminate. A fancier LED light has both red for +12V and green for ground. With it you hook to both batt terminals and you'll get pulsed green as the injectors are triggered.

As others have stated you need to verify the basics first. Are you saying when you key on fuel pressure goes from 0 to 40? Does it stay there while cranking? You said you're confident you have spark buy have you verified it? I would verify spark before I started probing stuff.

Give results of fuel pressure while cranking, and results of spark test (get a spark tester from parts store if you dont have one). Report back and you'll get help from lots of people.

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[Gene Van Horn]

Do what pacecarta said and unplug hot wire and plug back into stock plug.