crankshafts and bearings?

[shmed]

ok i pulled my engine out and brought it to the shop..

the main bearing had stuff run through them and scrathed up the crank.. already 10\10.

now it needs to be turned 20\20

is this ok to still run?? i mostly street drive and occasionally track it, 25+ psi...
should i go steel or try to find another stocker??

now the bearings? the machinst says he can only get .20 bearings in a regular version no race ones available??

any tips advice etc which way to go???

still need to measure the cylinder walls, but the pistons (stockers) still look good... fingers crossed...

 

[PhilM]

I dont think a lot of (fast) guys are running race bearings on a stock crank... I really dont know the reason though. But anyway, i think 20's under are avail. Thought i saw some at TA performance. You could also just get another stock crank. IF you go the eagle route, it will require a lot more machine work and money to get done right since it aint exactly a drop in.

PHil

 

[tbirdv6]

One nice thing about steel cranks (versus cast iron) - they don't flex as much. Therefore, your caps and mains don't take as much stress, because they don't have to try as hard to keep the crankshaft straight.
We've done 3 motors so far-very little machine work, why buy a used cast-stock crank for $300-400 when you can buy a Brand New Forged Steel Crank for $500

PS- I still have a few available
FRED
turbobuick2@yahoo.com

 

[PhilM]

For internally balanced (ie. forged crank): You will need neutral balance flexplate ($200), machined bearings (if you run wide), BHJ balancer ($300+), a (decent) balancing job ($150+), pistons/rings ($600) - (why do a steel crank with stock cast pistons?), ... and if you need the strength of a forged crank in the weak 109 you will also need a girdle and/or caps ($400+ machinework). Just watch... it isnt just $500 to buy the crank... theres lots more to use it. I guess if you dont need it, I wouldn't even bother. Just put it back together and get back to having fun.

Phil

 

[Louie L.]

If the crank is machined correctly 20/20 is no problem.

The race bearings are too hard for a stock crank. They are not very forgiving if some trash goes thru the motor. A passenger style bearing will take the damage better and therfore not gouge the journal as much. For your use a Clevite or FM passenger bearing will be just fine.
Thats all i ever used on my TSM motor. Never , ever any bearing is issues.

 

[tbirdv6]

It all depends upon your goals & if you have the funds
If you plan to run high boost levels & are a good tuner looking for longivity- then you do it the right way-what a spine is to a human is what a crank is to a motor!!!
FRED

 

[Mike Licht]

I am with Louie except that all I use is King bearings. Never had a problem with those and 20/20 is as good as std to me
Mike