crossover pipe studs

[1quick6]

I have to replace the studs in my crossover pipe on the passenger's side. Is there a trick to getting the one closest to the downpipe to thread in? Clearance is very tight, so i can't get my hand up there to start threading it in. Is there a tool made for starting stud threads?

Also, any tips on getting the crossover pipe to seal? I had to take it off to replace the starter.

Thanks!

 

[motorhead]

Bolts/Studs: Place them all in loosely, and tighten them up in a sequence that keeps the X-over pipe from hitting the flywheel. This will take some patience. Use short sockets, extensions & universal joint attachements to reach the tough ones.

Sealing: Purchase and apply some copper Permatex to the Pipe-Flange/Header-Donut and install. Torque down pipe. & Allow to cure over night.

HTH,

 

[John Larkin]

Bolts are what came from the factory. I'd stick with those. Depending on the depth of your socket, you can stuff a piece of paper down in the socket to keep the threads available to start threading them. Use some antiseize though; you never know when you may have to remove them again. A 12" extension helps alot, no swivel needed really though you could use one maybe on the passenger side.

Unless your crossover is ovaled, it is a flare-type seal; tightening should be all you need in a perfect world.

 

[1quick6]

Thanks for the responses. The drivers side had bolts and washers, but the passenger side had studs. The flange on the header had nuts welded on the top. I haven't ever had the crossover off, so I have to assume they went with bolts on one flange and studs/nuts on the pass side.

 

[tom h]

Your 87 may have been modified... stock used hex cap bolts to hold in the crossover pipe.

The bolts are GM# 14060130

 

[1quick6]

Thanks, Tom. I think I will get a set of new bolts. thanks for the part number!

 

[1quick6]

Hmm. An engine diagram i found does show studs on one side and bolts on another.

Check out http://www.jdmg.com/buick/tech/images/buickengine2.pdf

 

[tom h]

Originally posted by 1quick6
Hmm. An engine diagram i found does show studs on one side and bolts on another.

Check out http://www.jdmg.com/buick/tech/images/buickengine2.pdf

Steve-

The studs (#54, 55, 56) in the drawing are for headers to cyl head, and they are 3/8"-16 english threaded on the cyl head side.

The crossover pipe bolts are #57, a metric hex head cap bolt.

Don't forget to put some Permatex copper or nickel based antiseize compound on those bolt threads!

 

[S2V6RACER]

I replaced my bolts with stainless ones. That is after I snapped one off.

It won't happen again.

 

[1quick6]

Thanks, guys. I got the bolts and the anti-sieze. Time to lay under the car...

 

[GN-231]

Follow the instructions Mr.T said. make sure you tighten all the bolts equally in a sequence to ensure you get a seal. Uneven tightening will lead to exhaust leaks!

 

[J Banning]

Guys,
For the life of me I can't get my crossover pipe to seal. I've tried two stockers and an ATR unit. None have worked. I've also tried using the permatex ultra copper (cured overnight) with no luck either. I'm starting to worry that the flanges/donuts on my headers are messed up.

Any ideas?
-Banning.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by J Banning
Guys,
For the life of me I can't get my crossover pipe to seal. I've tried two stockers and an ATR unit. None have worked. I've also tried using the permatex ultra copper (cured overnight) with no luck either. I'm starting to worry that the flanges/donuts on my headers are messed up.

Any ideas?
-Banning.

Very likely the cause. After years of use and removal/replacements etc. the donut flanges get reshaped into an egg shape.

 

[TClassic]

I'm really surprised that this isn't mentioned more often, as over the years I've had more trouble with NOT SEALING crossovers than anything else, and in my case it was always the PASSENGER SIDE header that had egg shaped on me, well, guess what......

Obviously, unless you buy a new ATR header set (BIG $$$$$$),
you're not getting another one (folks want BIG dollars also on the parts trader for used ones!). So what I've done, and learned to do quite well, is to use the torch and hammer and Re-Round the flange!! Its NOT easy so good luck!!!

 

[J Banning]

Originally posted by TurboDave
Very likely the cause. After years of use and removal/replacements etc. the donut flanges get reshaped into an egg shape.

That's what I was afraid of This exhaust leak is killing my performance.

TClassic: I work in Center City Philly. Maybe we can catch up sometime?

-Banning.

 

[GN-231]

I would just try to clean up both the mating surfaces as well as you can, make sure you don't have any rough spots. Then I would start all four bolts on the x-over. Then you would incrementally tighten each bolt equally in small increments until you have fully seated the flanges. Then I usually swell up and give the bolts a good scinch down to lock them in tighter.
However, if your donut flanges are warped, then they maybe the problem. I have had sealing problems before, but I got rid of the leak following the above explaination.

 

[J Banning]

Thanks, but I've pulled the headers twice before (fully cleaned surfaces) and tried 3 different crossover pipes. No luck either of the times. I'm pretty sure it's got to be a out-of-shape flange.

I don't have a torch (yet), so I'll have to take them somewhere.

-Banning.