Dash speaker wire colors

[Perseverance 11NW]

hey all, Ive got an 87 gn with concert sound and am replacing dash speakers. I see a light green and dark green wire. Anyone know which is positive?

 

[Perseverance 11NW]

Oh and on the driver side the wires are grey and a light brown wire

 

[Cyclops389]

I have a couple harnesses laying around if you need them. Then you can just plug them up. I ran all new wire so I didn’t need them.

Sorry not to answer your question lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mikestertwo]

If memory serves me correctly RH Front... Dark Green is positive, Light Green is negative. LH Front....Tan is positive, Grey is negative.

 

[RUQWKNF]

This thread helped me immensely as I recently went through this myself.

https://www.turbobuick.com/threads/...info-thread-including-concert-sound-2.263874/

This is from garyk1970's post above.

"wiring info;

black two pin plug;
orange = memory/battery
brown = park lamps (illumination)

black four pin plug; main power.
yellow = ignition +
black = ground -
grey = illumination dimmer
pink = power ant control (if equipted)

white/clear four pin plug; front speakers.
tan = LF+
grey = LF-
lt green = RF+
dk green = RF-

blue four pin plug; rear speakers.
brown = LR+
yellow = LR-
dk blue = RR+
lt blue = RR-

Concert Sound 2 harness and info;

CS2 includes the following in additon to above;
1) usually an eq upgraded radio.
2) 5 1/4'' door speakers 10ohm.
3) 3 1/2'' dash speakers changed to 10ohm also.
4) harness added for door speakers and special "Y" harness to wire all front speakers parallel at the stereo. this makes 5ohm load per channel at stereo.
note; CS2 harness is color coded the same as dash speakers,but the plug is blue like the rear speakers. if repairing harness,check the color code of the wiring,not the plug color,so the plugs are assembled correctally at the "Y" harness.

dash speaker removal/info.
1) remove 9 #15 torq screws at the top of panel. (when reinstalling,i leave somewhat loose so dash can expand /contract with tempurature helping eliminate the possiblity of cracking).
2)remove two 7mm or phillips screws. 3 1/2 4ohm non-CS, 10ohm CS2speaker.

rear deck speakers.
1) held in by a brackets.unsnap from retainer,other side will slide out of body. unplug harness. 4x10 size. 6x9 can be added with special adaptors.

CS2 speakers;
remove lower door panels and the speakers are mounted to door with special plasic housings. four 7mm or 1/4' screws. 5 1/4 10 ohm


speaker upgrade notes;

1) nothing special on the rears ( 4ohm) ,just pay attention to the polarity(dark colors are positive).if one speaker is wiried wrong,you will loose most of the bass.

2) upgrading the front speakers, non-CS2;
same as #1. observe the front color code for correct wiring.

3) CS2 speaker replacement;
heres where it gets tricky. most if not all aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm. one set on a delco or aftermarket stereo is perfect. but two sets wiried in the factory CS2 harness parallel will put a 2ohm load on each front channel of the radio which sooner or later will harm/destroy the radio.
if you replace the CS2 speakers, you need to rewire the fronts in series (raising the ohm load to 8 ohms) in order to be safe and not over heat ,burn up the stereo.i will make a diagram of how i usually do this as soon as i can and post it up."

Hope this helps.

-Patrick-

 

[Perseverance 11NW]

This thread helped me immensely as I recently went through this myself.

https://www.turbobuick.com/threads/...info-thread-including-concert-sound-2.263874/

This is from garyk1970's post above.

"wiring info;

black two pin plug;
orange = memory/battery
brown = park lamps (illumination)

black four pin plug; main power.
yellow = ignition +
black = ground -
grey = illumination dimmer
pink = power ant control (if equipted)

white/clear four pin plug; front speakers.
tan = LF+
grey = LF-
lt green = RF+
dk green = RF-

blue four pin plug; rear speakers.
brown = LR+
yellow = LR-
dk blue = RR+
lt blue = RR-

Concert Sound 2 harness and info;

CS2 includes the following in additon to above;
1) usually an eq upgraded radio.
2) 5 1/4'' door speakers 10ohm.
3) 3 1/2'' dash speakers changed to 10ohm also.
4) harness added for door speakers and special "Y" harness to wire all front speakers parallel at the stereo. this makes 5ohm load per channel at stereo.
note; CS2 harness is color coded the same as dash speakers,but the plug is blue like the rear speakers. if repairing harness,check the color code of the wiring,not the plug color,so the plugs are assembled correctally at the "Y" harness.

dash speaker removal/info.
1) remove 9 #15 torq screws at the top of panel. (when reinstalling,i leave somewhat loose so dash can expand /contract with tempurature helping eliminate the possiblity of cracking).
2)remove two 7mm or phillips screws. 3 1/2 4ohm non-CS, 10ohm CS2speaker.

rear deck speakers.
1) held in by a brackets.unsnap from retainer,other side will slide out of body. unplug harness. 4x10 size. 6x9 can be added with special adaptors.

CS2 speakers;
remove lower door panels and the speakers are mounted to door with special plasic housings. four 7mm or 1/4' screws. 5 1/4 10 ohm


speaker upgrade notes;

1) nothing special on the rears ( 4ohm) ,just pay attention to the polarity(dark colors are positive).if one speaker is wiried wrong,you will loose most of the bass.

2) upgrading the front speakers, non-CS2;
same as #1. observe the front color code for correct wiring.

3) CS2 speaker replacement;
heres where it gets tricky. most if not all aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm. one set on a delco or aftermarket stereo is perfect. but two sets wiried in the factory CS2 harness parallel will put a 2ohm load on each front channel of the radio which sooner or later will harm/destroy the radio.
if you replace the CS2 speakers, you need to rewire the fronts in series (raising the ohm load to 8 ohms) in order to be safe and not over heat ,burn up the stereo.i will make a diagram of how i usually do this as soon as i can and post it up."

Hope this helps.

-Patrick-

Thank u! That is helpful info. Now im freaked out about ohms butning up my alpine.

 

[Perseverance 11NW]

Would running the components on a 4 channel remedy the burning up issue?

 

[earlbrown]

Now im freaked out about ohms butning up my alpine.

It won't.



But if you're going to lose sleep over it, wire them in series and the ohm load will be lower (higher numerically).


The side effect the the front speakers won't be nearly as loud.

 

[Perseverance 11NW]

It won't.



But if you're going to lose sleep over it, wire them in series and the ohm load will be lower (higher numerically).


The side effect the the front speakers won't be nearly as loud.

someone told me that the newer head units can handle more now days so I think ill just run it parallel like it is and call it good. Thank u

 

[earlbrown]

Actually older (much older) amps are what you want when it comes to strait up power.



But I would recommend you wire those puny speakers and worry about something else.