Deeper or wider oil pan?

[Turbo6inKY]

What if your not running an Oil Cooler mine was Contaminated after an Engine Failure.The Radiator with the Oil Cooler is fairly new so I didn’t want to buy a new Radiator again or run an External Cooler my Builder said this was an Option instead of an External Oil Cooler Jason Cramer says this as well.

Two more quarts isn't a very efficient way to remove heat. It's a sink. Once it's hot, it's going to just stay hot. The deep pan is not a solution for oil temps. I've beaten on mine far harder for longer periods than just about everybody, at least as far as generating heat is concerned, and I log my oil temps and pressure. Even after 20 minutes at Road America where I get above 140mph three times per lap and there's a carousel turn where I'm at 1G lateral for almost five second, my oil temps never got out of hand (stabilized at 206F) and the pressures were stable, so I wasn't exposing the pickup and sucking air.

The oil cooler in the radiator is a very simple loop, it's not lot a bar and plate cooler that's impossible to clean. You can flush it and keep using it, or just add an external.

The deep pan is a nice part, and it's not going to hurt anything, but my experience strongly indicates it is just not necessary.

 

[Mr.Spool]

the deep pan isn't necessary.
I have run stock pan and a deep pan on many 109s in heavy racing conditions and street duty.

 

[TIMINATOR]

My plan is to make it deeper and wider to hold an extra quart or two, but mostly to keep the oil away from the crank. I'm adding a custom (by me) scraper and windage tray too. I am more worried about aeration than heat. Air neither cools nor lubes bearings, and entrained air loses cam lift and duration too. I did an article on jetboat oiling and pans many years ago. I warmed up a 575 HP (as I remember) jet boat, ran it hard for a few minutes, drained 100cc of hot oil into a graduated cylinder, and let it sit. As my foggy memory recalls, it measured about 92cc in about a half an hour.
8% air! Also 8% less lift on the Hydraulic roller cam! At .578 lift on my Turbo T LTD. That would be .532 lift, a loss of .046"!
That pretty much kills the effect of adding the 1.65 ratio rockers on it!
I could plug that into my cam analyzer and figure the duration loss too, but then again you could just look at the advertised duration ( measured at .006 lift) and the duration at .050 (about 40 DEGREES LESS!) and guess at what you lost!!!!!!
At the risk of being redundant, the 14/71 blown Hydraulic roller liftered 572" in my 25' Daytona tunnel, picked up from 97-98 mph to 112-114mph just by changing to solid roller lifters on the Hydraulic roller cam (lashed at .005"/.007".)
I ran into that way for about 4 months until I spec'ed out a custom solid roller.
Check out my past posts with one of the first Crane Hydraulic rollers sold in about 1987. LOTS of info there.
Me, I'm running a Comp custom Hydraulic roller, cause I'm not racing it, (no roll bar) and don't want to adjust mechanicals on the car once a year or so.
TIMINATOR

 

[liquidh8]

I'd like to follow the build of the pan, I would like to do something similar for mine, as I don't drag it but more twisties/auto-x. I pan with trap doors and side kick outs is the plan.

Can't wait to see yours

 

[TIMINATOR]

My plan is to make it deeper and wider to hold an extra quart or two, but mostly to keep the oil away from the crank. I'm adding a custom (by me) scraper and windage tray too. I am more worried about aeration than heat. Air neither cools nor lubes bearings, and entrained air loses cam lift and duration too. I did an article on jetboat oiling and pans many years ago. I warmed up a 575 HP (as I remember) jet boat, ran it hard for a few minutes, drained 100cc of hot oil into a graduated cylinder, and let it sit. As my foggy memory recalls, it measured about 92cc in about a half an hour.
8% air! Also 8% less lift on the Hydraulic roller cam! At .578 lift on my Turbo T LTD. That would be .532 lift, a loss of .046"!
That pretty much kills the effect of adding the 1.65 ratio rockers on it!
I could plug that into my cam analyzer and figure the duration loss too, but then again you could just look at the advertised duration ( measured at .006 lift) and the duration at .050 (about 40 DEGREES LESS!) and guess at what you lost!!!!!!
At the risk of being redundant, the 14/71 blown Hydraulic roller liftered 572" in my 25' Daytona tunnel, picked up from 97-98 mph to 112-114mph just by changing to solid roller lifters on the Hydraulic roller cam (lashed at .005"/.007".)
I ran into that way for about 4 months until I spec'ed out a custom solid roller.
Check out my past posts with one of the first Crane Hydraulic rollers sold in about 1987. LOTS of info there.
Me, I'm running a Comp custom Hydraulic roller, cause I'm not racing it, (no roll bar) and don't want to adjust mechanicals on the car once a year or so.
TIMINATOR

Also, if you don't believe that that very much air gets mixed in with the oil, go buy a traditional milkshake (not one that is just soft serve). Don't drink it. Let it sit for an hour or two, and see how far the level drops!
RPM of blender, about 4000 mebbie. Diameter of blades 2" = 25,120 inches per minute or 2093 FEET per minute
Crankshaft at 6000 RPM, diameter of crank 6". = 113,040 inches per minute or 9420 FEET per minute!
Just sayin!
TIMINATOR