Del A Lum Bushings

[BJM]

Can I get these for regular control arms or do I have to upgrade to the tubular control arms? Has anyone got them in their car? Do they squeak?

 

[Racer X]

Can I get these for regular control arms or do I have to upgrade to the tubular control arms?

I have them in my stock arms, so yes they will fit.

Do they squeak?

No and what's better they are a greasable bushing.

 

[TurboBob]

Bushings

Does the bronze 'hot spot' bushing fit the stock arm as well?

I was under the impression that tubular arms were required to use any of the
'good' bushing styles. If the bronze bushing works, then I have **another**
project for spring.


TurboBob

edit: fixed spelling.........

 

[Racer X]

Does the bronze 'hot spot' bushing fit the stock arm as well?

Yes. This is from the Global West site

Note: Cars with turbo's (Grand Nationals), require a heat shield placed over the upper rearward
control arm bushing on the passenger side. Grand Nationals using kit CNR-88-BB or CNR-88-CB
have special brass bushing installed and do not need a shield.(see Negative Roll systems)

 

[BJM]

I think the brass bushing only fits the tubular arms. I called them once and the guy was something of a jerk but he told me I needed the tubular arms for the brass bushing.

Who has squeaking bushings is what I want to find out.

 

[Turboaddict]

whats the website for global west?

 

[motorhead]

Brass...

Bushings from GW only fit in GWs tubular upper A-arms.

Robert Adams can offer the same for a whole lot less!

HTH,

 

[Racer X]

Originally posted by Turboaddict
whats the website for global west?

www.globalwest.net

 

[Turboaddict]

I was checking the site out and there are two sets of bushings. Front uppers and front lowers at separate prices. i want to replace the control arm bushing by the DP. Should I get both sets or just the front upper bushing set?

 

[GNVAIR]

I have the squeaking energt suspension bushings. They friggin blow! No matter how much grease you pack into them, they start squeaking again. To top it off, the bolts keep backing out.
I have a new set of Del A Lums ready to go on. The Polys are going into the trash where they belong

 

[Turboaddict]

if i want to repace the bushing by the DP, should I go with the front upper bushing kit Del-A_Lum? Or just get the front upper and lower kits?

 

[HRpartsNstuff]

We are looking into making a better replacement bushing that will hold up to the heat on the TR's. I have several ideas in mind, just seems like no time to get into the project. I could use a little help from anyone familiar with swapping these out.

Is there any problem areas concerning the actual installation of the bushings?

Could the bushing be shaped differently to make installation easier?

Any thoughts on if the outer shell was Jet-Hot coated to resist the heat?

Do the sides of the bushings melt, or the inside, or both?

Would it help or hurt to have them slightly looser fit between the inner sleeve & the bushing material? I am thinking back to the Super Stock tricks where it would allow the front to rise faster & transfer weight quicker. Not sure if it would be bad for handling or high speeds.

Anyone have some junk stock bushings and/or front control arms that you might want to donate to the cause? I can pay for shipping and/or give a discount on new parts for helping out.

Any & all help is GREATLY appreciated! I hope to have something very interesting by the summer if at all possible.

 

[Danster]

Re: Brass...

Originally posted by Mr. T
Bushings from GW only fit in GWs tubular upper A-arms.

Robert Adams can offer the same for a whole lot less!

HTH,

Where can I go see what Robert Adams offer? Is there a Web site? I will be replacing mine soon and I don't feel like spending lots of $$$$. TIA!

Dannyo

 

[Matt Weiser]

Here is the Robert Adams site (WARNING! Blitzkrieg of pop-up ads!):

http://gparts.freeyellow.com/

I got his 12" brake kit and used Global West arms. It's a quality brake kit at a good price but delivery can be slow because Robert does all this on the side. But he's a stand-up guy.

 

[ijames]

Paul, I just installed my third set of upper bushings by the down pipe (I have ATR headers and their 2.5 dp and my THDP both get pretty close). I seem to get about 50,000 miles before the control arm starts moving around. Two of the old bushings did not look melted or burnt, one looked a little burnt on one end. What happens to mine is that the inner hole seems to get "wallowed" out so that the bushing can slop sideways on the shaft. This lets the rear of the upper control arm move and lets the top of the spindle move forwards and backwards. You can feel a clunk when you hit a driveway slowly and if you watch from the side when someone lets the car roll a couple of feet then stomps the brakes you can see the wheel move forwards and backwards in the wheel well. Naturally this isn't good on the alignment and my tires wear on the inside tread. Anyway, I don't think any deliberate looseness would be good on a street car. As for installation, you have to unbolt the "dogbone" shaft from the frame mounts (remove the nuts, count and save the shims for reassembly, and those bolts are splined to keep them from turning in the frame) and pop the top ball joint out of the spindle, then you take the control arm over to the bench to do the bushings. I used one of those C-clamps at a friends shop to press them in and out and it was very easy. There's no way to do the job on the car, even if you pulled the downpipe (I guess maybe somehow you could not separate the arm and spindle but it's so easy why not?), so I can't think of any mods to the basic shape that would make the job easier.