Diagnosing high BLM - let me know if I am forgetting something

BuickMike

Money pit
Joined
Jun 7, 2001
My buddy just bought a really nice 11k mile, bone stock GN. It runs pretty good with exception of a slightly rough idle, knock at WOT, and consistently high BLM's...high 140's to 150 all the time. Basically it is lean across the board.

Obviously this is due to lack of fuel or unmetered air entering the system.

I checked all the vacuum lines and they all look great. I did not bring a vacuum / boost gauge to check it out. I'll do that next time I see him.

It still has the stock crankcase evac system and it seems to be sealing good. If I pull the oil fill tube off the drivers side valve cover it runs bad and integrator shoots up. That tells me that it should not be pulling unmetered air from that. I'm going to have him plug the turbo inlet and check int / blm to see if anything changes though.

Still need to check the MAF to turbo hose for a slight tear. That would do it.

Hoses on IC and up pipe look good.

02 sensor looks new and cross counts are fine.

If it is not too much air, then we will move onto fueling....

I'll have him replace the fuel filter and see if that helps.

It has the stock fuel pump and wiring I'm guessing. I forgot to bring my fuel pressure gauge, but the pump should have no issues supplying pressure at idle and cruise. If it was that bad, the car would probably stumble bad at cruise and it is fine.

I'm assuming the chip is stock, but I'm guessing that a different chip would cause a lean condition with a stock regulator. We will check that.

Could it be lean due to new gas being E10 instead of 100% gasoline? I'm guessing it would not be that far off.

At that point I'm going to point to the injectors...or one injector. I may let it idle for a couple minutes and see if one cylinder is a little cold by using my infrared thermometer on the top of each header pipe.

Any I missing anything? Could a possible worn #3 exhaust lobe cause something like this?




I have him talked into a few tasteful mods on this car. TT chip, 160 thermostat, adj actuator, solid MAF pipe and cold air intake, test pipe, catback, new fuel pump, and hotwire kit. That all should make it really nice.
 
Long shot.....make sure the PCV valve isn't stuck wide open. I had a problem similiar to this on a car...pull the oil fill cap off and the idle would get worse....found the PCV valve was stuck open.
 
Sounds like this car needs a bunch of preventive maintenance done before troubleshooting.


Also, keep in mind high BLMs doesn't mean the car is lean... it means the ECM thinks the car is lean.

If the plugs are showing rich it might be a false reading and the computer compensates with too much fuel.
 
Long shot.....make sure the PCV valve isn't stuck wide open. I had a problem similiar to this on a car...pull the oil fill cap off and the idle would get worse....found the PCV valve was stuck open.
X2. Replace the PCV. If nothing else you've eliminated one variable and can move on. My car had elevated (not pegged) BLM's until I changed the PCV.
 
^or for testing reasons, pinch the hose off and see if the BLMs drop substantially.
 
Makes sense. I may roll out to his house soon and give it a shot.

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Agreed, the PCV has been the culprit a couple of times on my car when I had high BLM. Definitely worth looking at. First thing I usually do on a car with high BLM is remove all vacuum hoses from the block, plug them, and start the car. If the BLM goes back to normal then theres an issue with one of the lines. Put each line back on one at a time until you find the one that causing the issue and you found your problem. If the PCV is OK and there is no vacuum line issue, spray carb cleaner around the intake base, plenum, and tb while running. If at any point the idle changes you found your leak. MIght also be worth taking a good look at the manifolds, probably shouldnt have any cracks with such low miles, but you never know. I would definitely check the chip like you said, along with fuel pressure and vacuum at idle, you never know. Good luck.
 
My 13k mile 87 GN is stock. To address your 10% ethanol question. Due to emissions, they put a different chip in my car way back when. It always idled a bit rough and had a little hesitation. It would chug in 3rd gear after the convertor locked. I never really liked driving it because of these things. I think it ran on the edge of lean due to the chip. Maybe the 10% added to the problem.
I got a Turbo Tweak chip for my stock setup and it makes a lot of difference in the way the car runs now.
Idle is better, no hesitation and no bucking. I like it much better now.
I don't know what my BLMs are, not even sure what that is.
I can't say I noticed any knock at WOT but I don't floor it very often so I may not have noticed anything.
 
11k miles = a lot of sitting, my guess is injector (s) or something fuel related.
 
ive had similar issues when I was running old kb and atr chips, but all those issues worked out when I got a few turbotweak chips burned to the combos...
 
I had a low mile car and it appeared there was a small leak at the back of the intake manifold. I found it with my smoke machine. didn't cause any knock though. Your friend's car probably has a large leak if it is knocking. The rubber plug once fell off of my turbo bell.....now that caused knock!
 
A new chip adjustable fuel pressure regulator you need for sure...As Earl said some maintenance to do... .I know the car has low miles but don't forget to check for a cracked driver side header....
 
So my buddy finally had some time to play with his GN and I dropped by to Check it out. Replacing the Pcv valve seems to have helped the issue a bit. No more real difference when pulling the oil filler tube. Pinching off the Pcv hose only changes integrator a couple points. We didn't have a chance to drive it, but integrator went down when revving in neutral. He is going to drive it a little and see where blm's settle. Blm and integrator is still high at idle, but if I pull the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator integrator goes down to 128ish. I needed to get home, but he is going to pull the ecu and see if it has a different chip. After that he will replace the fuel filter. I forgot to bring my fuel pressure gauge over, but will do that the next time. At this point I'm pretty sure this is fuel related. A chip with the stock regulator could cause this for sure.
 
Update. So awhile back he decided to get a TT chip. We put that in, along with a cold air intake, new up pipe, new silicone connectors, accufab pressure regulator, and adjustable boost actuator. We also replaced the fuel filter with a Wix. Car still ran like poo. BLM's were still super high and the car would fall on its face when blipping throttle. You could also hear how it revved and it was obvious that it had to have a bad injector and the lean condition from one cylinder was causing the other 5 to run pig rich. He went ahead and just ordered a set of 42lb injectors and a new chip from Turbotweak.

So last night we swapped chips and injectors. We also removed the stock cat and replaced it with a test pipe I had. I also welded in a bung so I can eyeball things with my wideband. We fire it up and idle is getting better. BLM at idle immediately settled at 140, but it was idling rich and the nbo2 was showing it too. I've had 2 of Eric's chips myself and know that it intentionally sets idle rich and then locks a high BLM before going to open loop idle. Car was idling great though and when we blipped the throttle we instantly knew things were much better. We took it for a drive and BLM's settled from 128 to 132. Fixed!!!!! The car was cruising so damn nice.

Then it was on to WOT and what happened was what I expected. We have boost at 12-13 now and the car immediately went lean. Had him get off it the second I saw that and it already had lots of KR. I added 10% fuel at WOT in the chip and no difference. He really did not want to swap fuel pumped and I figured the stock pump was not going to be able to keep up. We did not verify with a fuel pressure gauge, but I know that it has to be the pump. He's now taking my advice and ordering a new fuel pump and a hotwire kit.

In a few weeks we will put that in and get it dialed in with the WB02 at WOT. Now if I can only convince him to ditch the stock catback lol. We also still need to bypass the coolant lines to the TB and swap the 180 t stat for the 160.

So much for a 100% original 10k mile GN hahahahaaaaa. The good thing is that it is going to run really nice once we have it finished.
 
Another update. Fuel pump and hotwire fixed the WOT lean issue. Next step is to fine tune this thing the best we can with a WB02.
 
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